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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

§8. Fit men's outerwear

Cut of clothes is determined by the design of the sleeve. On this basis the cuts divided into three main groups: set-in sleeves, and zelenolistnye combined. 

  Clothing with sleeves, udachnymi into closed openings.This design has many variants. Fit products with vtachnoy sleeve for considered a classic, as it is permanent representative of fashion for many decades. Closed armhole the width and depth corresponds to the entire cross-section and a minor deviations from its contours. Allowance for the freedom of the armhole to the the depth of PS.PR = 0,5...5 see the Sleeve in the upper part corresponds to the armhole. The top part of the sleeve with the armhole samkirtana connected in circuit with greater or lower landing sleeve relative to the openings (depending on model).
Products with vtachnoy sleeves can be straight, flared, semi-fitted or extended silhouette, single-breasted or double-breasted, with various buckle and form pockets. 

  Clothing with sleeves, confined in udachnymi in-depth openings. Unlike the previous, this cut is more wide and the depth of the armhole. Allowance for freedom of armhole depth of PS.PR = 4...6 cm.Increase the width of the openings associated with an increase in the General allowance on line chest. Allowance to the circumference of the shoulder.p = 12...15, see Used one-, two- (with front and second, top and bottom seams) and three-seam sleeves. This cut is used for coats, jackets, blouses. The collars in the product forms a clear, zip single-breasted or double-breasted up to the top. 
In products often use belts, straps, cuffs; characterized by the presence of decorative stitches.

  Clothing with sleeves, udachnymi in closed, highly in-depth openings (coat). This cut is characterized by smooth, soft lines, large allowances on the chest and on the freedom of the armhole depth (6 - 12 cm); allowance to the shoulder girth 14 - 20 cm Sleeves, broad shoulders, elongated and deflated.

  Clothing with sleeves, udachnymi enclosed in square openings (kimono). This cut is much deep armhole formed straight and curved lines. In most cases, the armhole comes to the waist line. 

  Clothing with sleeves, udachnymi in the open armhole (Raglan). It is characterized by the location of the ends of unclosed openings on the line neck back and neck shelves. This sleeve can be one-, two-and flow. It is based or directly on the product drawing (one and double seam), or on the basis of the double seam set-in cut with deep armhole. Allowance for freedom of armhole depth of PS.PR = 3....7 see 
Fit Raglan is recommended for all types of men's clothing.
A variation of the Raglan is proregular. In this fashion the upper ends of details of the sleeve are aligned at one point on any part of shoulder length. In the casual Raglan-shoulder straps the upper ends of the parts of the sleeve move in the shoulder part of the product and create a high yoke with no shoulder seam. 

  Clothing with zelenolistnye sleeves. It differs in that the sleeves are an integral part of the back andshelves. This fit is built on the basis of the set-in sleeves with deep armhole. It is widely used in coats, jackets, shirts, raincoats, windbreakers. Depending on the type of product and its purpose the sleeve mayto be one-, two - and three-seam with gusset or without. The angle of the inclination of the sleeve varies depending on the shape and freedom of movement. Than smaller the angle of inclination of the sleeve, the sleeve is wider and softer. With the increase in slope angle for the preservation of the freedom of movement is used various gussets.

  Clothing with mixed sleeves. It is a combination of two designs in one product. Most common combination is telenowyny the sleeve with back with any kind of set-in sleeves front. Can be and such the combination of the sleeves like casting and Raglan, and Raglan telenowyny. 
For products of the combined cut is characterized by softness of the silhouette a large variety of finishing details, a variety of design solutions. This gives you the opportunity widely to use the combined cut all kinds of products.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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