To build a structure winter coat necessary to determine the total allowances for free customized fit. In total ΣП allowances include allowances for free customized fit jacket or jacket, insulated lining and a thick fabric top (Fig. 43).
Usually for jacket (jackets) seam allowance along the chest line PG = 9 cm Allowance for the thickness of an insulation strip h, are distributed on three sites: back, underarm and shelf (back shelf and 0.6 h and armhole 2h).
Allowance for the thickness of the fabric top winter coats determine the rate that each millimeter of tissue thickness of 0.5 cm is added
To simplify the calculations when cutting the product allowance for the thickness of the fabric top coats do not count, and round the seam allowance on the chest of the jacket (jacket) up to 10 cm
Allowances for the thickness of an insulation gasket to provide poluobhvat waist St the poluobhvat hips Sat on the freedom of the armhole to the depth of the SS.PR length backless to waist Dt.with the length of the front to the waist Dt.p.
Total allowances ΣП free fit winter coat of straight silhouette. Size 50, the fullness of the second (take h = 1 cm):
ΣПг = 10 + 3,2 h = 13.2 cm
ΣПб = 10 + 3,2 h = 13.2 cm
ΣПс.PR = 4 + 0.5 h = 4.5 cm
ΣПд.t.C = 1.5 m h = 2.5 cm
ΣПд.t.p = 2,5 + 0,6 h = 3.1 cm
Semi-fitted coat for winter ΣПг = 9 + 3,2 h.
The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: the width of the back of 20.4; the area of the openings is 10.4; the width of the shelves is 19.2.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole
SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32 + 14)/2 = 23 see
The distribution of the total stock of GHGs in the areas of the jacket (PG = 10 cm), cm: to the width of the openings of 5.6; the width of the back is 2.4; the width of shelves - 2.
The calculation of the insulation strips on the chest are made according to the results of the calculation sections of the jacket to the width of the backrest of 0.6 h = 0.6 x 1= 0.6 cm; width of the openings 2h = 2 x 1 = 2 cm; the width of shelves 0,b = 0.6 x 1 = 0.6 cm
The base of the neck backless additionally increase by 0.6 of the thickness of the insulating strip АА0 = 0,7 + 0,6 h. For ease of calculation АА0 = 1,2...1,7, see Allocating the base of the neck backless А0А01 1 - 1.2 cm If the thickness of an insulation strip more than 1 cm seam allowance to the width of the neck is 3 cm.
The level of convexity of the blades is moved down by 0.5 cm and is determined by the rate 0.3 Dt.with + 0.5 cm.
The level of the chest is determined by calculating the design light coats according to the thickness of the insulation gasket AG = VLOOKUP.s + PS.PR + 0,5 h.
The height of the armhole of the backrest is increased by half the thickness of the insulating strip Г11П2 = 0,5 DP + 7 + 0.5 h.
The highest point of the neck shelves is determined by calculation for light coats according to the thickness of the insulation strip
Т4А41 = Dt.p + 5 + 1h + 0,6 h, where 1h - additional allowance to Dt.C; 0,6 h - allowance for rounding of underlying layers of tissue.
The height of the armhole shelves increase by half the thickness of the insulating strip Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 6,5 + 0,5 h.
When calculating the width of the sleeves winter coat, consider the expansion of openings through the thickness of the insulating strip. The width of the sleeves winter coat under the armhole increase of 0.7 thickened insulating strips to the armhole (which is equal to 2h). When h = 1 cm
Sruc.ZIM = (Op.n)/2 + (0.7 x 2h) = (32 + 12)/2 + 1,4 = 23,4 see
Allowance to the circumference of the shoulder, as in demi-season coat.
The width of the sleeve under the armhole for a winter coat, you can define another method:
Sruc.ZIM = PDS + (2 x 3) = PDS + 6 cm, 3 cm. wide front roll. 
If the top fabric is thin,
Sruc.ZIM = PDS + (2 x 3) - 1 = PDS + 5 cm
The permissible error when comparing with the first method is not taken into account.

§ 10. THE FEATURES OF THE CONSTRUCTION DRAWING SET-IN SLEEVES, DOUBLE SEAM COAT

The height of the crown sleeve coat Wok = 0,4(П2Г11 + П4Г4) + 1, see In our example, the height of the top part of the sleeve is determined by the height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 taking into account the width of the openings. While Г11П2 take without allowance for Stojko, which is 1 - 1,5 cm width of the openings 16 cm the height of the crown is determined by the formula Vok = Г11П2 - 3.5 cm With the increase of the width of the armhole 0.5 cm height of crown reduce by 0.2 cm; with decreasing width of the armhole 0.5 cm the height of the crown increases by 0.2 cm

Note. The height of the crown, as determined by the above method, does not account for deviations of the shape of the shoulders, depending on where the height of the armhole Г11П2 changes. 

The width of the sleeve under the armhole desired is determined in the usual way
Sruc.x = (Op.p)/2.
If arm circumference is less than the standard, the calculation of the model take the girth; if the arm circumference is more typical, wide armholes make changes.

  Example. Size 50, arm circumference 32 cm standard arm Circumference at the customer (size 50) 36 see
Additional allowance to the width of the openings is determined by the calculation
DOP.p.armhole = (Op.Zac - Op.type)/2 x 0.7 = (36 - 32)/2 x 0.7 = 1.4 cm.
If the width of the openings is equal to 16 cm with a normal model arm circumference 32 cm, then the circumference of shoulder 36 cm width of the openings to increase by 1.4 cm and is 16 + 1,4 = 17,4 cm
Sruc.x = (Op.p)/2 = (36 +.p)/2.
The width of the bottom of the sleeves is determined by the width of the sleeve under the armhole
Shi.owner = (Sruk.under armhole)/2 + 5.5 to 6 cm, or according to the formula 0,2 SG + 6,5...7 see