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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

A figure with prominent hips and flat buttocks

A FIGURE WITH prominent HIPS AND FLAT BUTTOCKS

IN terms of custom-made pants to meet customers that have thigh at the level of the desired length of the convex folds with a large volume, and buttocks flat. This feature of the Constitution must be considered in the construction of trousers with a tight fit in the hips. 
The figure measuring cm: 
SG = 50; SB = 48; DS.b = 105 
St = 40; Dt.C = 45,5; SN = 24; SHK = 25
The hip girth at the level of the desired length pleats Lunch = 66 cm Allowance for the free fit of the pants to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2 cm; circumference of the hips at the level of the desired length of folds.troubles = 6...8 see 

 the Front half of the pants. The build starts with the determination of the width of the front halves at the level of the origin, seat height CHA (Fig. 13): Я1Я2 = Lunch/2 = 66/2 = 33 cm step Width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the buttocks line is the difference between the width of the front halves of trousers on the line of the buttocks and the width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hips. The width of the front halves at the level of the hip line is determined by the formula Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 48 + 2 = 26 cm step Width of the front halves at the line of the buttocks Я2Я21 = Я1Я21 - Б1Б2 = 33 - 26 = 7 cm.
Fold line front halves of the pants passes through the point I, located at the midpoint of the segment Я1Я21, i.e. ЯЯ1 = ЯЯ21 = Я1Я21/2 = 32/2 = 16,5 cm 
From point H2 is carried up the vertical to the intersection with the waist line at point T2, with the hips at the point B2. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я₂1 = 0,3Б2Я2. Down from the point T2 along the line Т2Я2 lay 0.5 cm (point T21). The line of the bow is carried out using point T21, B2, 1 and Я21.
The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line defines the cut Т21Т1 = 0.5 St + solution front tuck (pleat) + 2 = 0.5 x 40 + 1,5 + 2 = 23.5 cm Up from point T1 vertical lay cut Т1Т11 = 0,5...0,7, see Point T11 and B1 connect the auxiliary straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line Т11Б1 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm 
On the upper cut of the pants point T21 and T, and T11 and T connect with a straight line. From T point to the right or to the left lay the solution of the folds. 
The width of the front halves of the bottom is determined from the H point, and НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 24 = 12 cm.
The width of the front halves at the level of a line knee length determined from point K, and KK1 = KK3 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm Point H1 and K1, H2 and K2 and connect straight lines. The point K1 is connected to point H1, and K2 with the point Я21. The line of side stepping and cut the front halves of the draw, as shown in the drawing. 

 The rear half of the pants. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2 cm (seam to the front and rear halves). The side and step sections of the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee is determined by the segments К1КЗ = К2К4 = 2 cm 
to the Left from the point B1 on the horizontal lay cut Б1Б3 = 0,1(48 + 2) - 1 = 4 see 
Point K3 and B3 connect by a straight line. To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B2 up vertically, lay the cut Б2Б20 = 0.1 x 48 - 1,5 = 3,3 cm
From point B3 of radius equal to the calculated width of the rear half at the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal from the point of the G20 and the intersection of dot B5, while Б3Б5 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 = (48 + 2 + 3) - 26 = 27 see 
To determine the width of the rear halves of the trousers on the buttocks line from point Я3 down the line ЯЗК3 lay cut Я3Я30 = Б2Б20. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal passing through the point I and the intersection of dot H4; Я30Я4 = БЗБ5.
Through the points H4 and B5 have been holding up a line that intersects with the line of the hips at the point B4, and with the waist at the point T4. From the point T4 up on the continuation of the direct Я4Т4 lay cut Т4Т5 = Б4Б5. Cut Т4Т5 determines the balance of the pants. 
From the point Я3 right across postpone cut Я3Я5 = Lunch + At.ills + PN - Я1Я21 = 66 + 6 + 4 - 33 = 43 see On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay 1.5 cm (point 2). From the point AM5 down vertical lay 2 cm (point AM6).
The width of the rear halves of the waist line defines the cut Т3Т5 = 0.5 St + 3 + Lim = 0.5 x 40 + 3 + 1 = 24 see Point T3 and B3 connect by a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line Т3Б3 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm 
, All other construction performed in the usual way. 

The FIGURE WITH a SLIM WAIST AND BULGING THIGHS IN the SIDES 

in addition to the main measurement determine the circumference of the hips at the level of the desired length of folds, the length of the front and side. Construction of front halves carry on the line of the buttocks with the use of girth measurement of the hip (see Fig. 9): 
Я1Я21 = 0,5 Lunch for pants skintight;
Я1Я21 = 0,5 Lunch + 1 - Trouser fitting; 
Я1Я21 = 0,5 Lunch + 2 - Trouser poluoblegayuschie and free. 
From the point H1 to the right lay 0,5 SB at the level of the most protruding points of buttocks plus 0 - 2 cm depending on the fit (point H2).
The line of the bow building in the vertical direction from point H2, which intersects with the line of the waist at the point T2. To the left of the point T2 lay 1.5 cm From the point, lay the width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line and put the point T1. From point T1 up lay the difference between the standards of length to the waist side, DRC and length to the waist front Particleboard (period T11). Point T11 and T connect with a straight line. All other construction performed in the usual way.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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