DESIGN VESTS

Waistcoat is a decorative addition to the modern suit. Its shape, lines and proportions closely aligned with the jacket. The design of the vests is carried out mainly according to the calculations adopted for the design of the jacket, with some small deviations. Currently, the vest may have independent significance and is worn without a jacket. If the vest is a Supplement to the jacket, the back is made from lining fabric. In case of self-value of its back vest is made from top fabric.
Single breasted jackets can be combined with a single-breasted or double-breasted jacket, double breasted - single breasted jacket. 

CONSTRUCTION DRAWING BASICS VEST 

Measurement figures (see Fig. 1) cm: 
Poluobhvat neck (11) SSH = 20,5 
Poluobhvat chest (1) SG = 50 
Poluobhvat waist (2) PT = 44 
Poluobhvat hips (3) SB = 52 
chest Width (12) CG = 19,2 
front Length to the waist line (13) Dt.p = 55,6 
Width of the backrest (14) SS = 20,4 
back Length to the waist line (4) Dt.C = 45,5 
Height of rear openings (15) of the CDF.z = 21,4 
Arc through the highest point of the shoulder joint (16) DP = 36,1
height of the barrel (17) WB = 24,1
The height of the neckline of the vest of Explosives.W = 23 
P R I m e h a n and E. the Numbers in brackets are measurements in Fig. 1. 

The height of the neckline of the vest of Explosives.W is determined from the point the base of the neck to the desired level of the tank on the midsagittal line in front.
The height of the tank is unstable and depends on the style and design of the costume as a whole. 
PG = 2,5...3,5 PD.t.s = 1 
PT = 2,5...3,5 PD.t.n = 0,5...0,7 
PS.PR = 3,6...4 PN.throats = 1,3 
Distribution measurements at the SG sites, see: 
the width of the back of 20.4 - 2 = 18.4 per; 
the width of the armhole - 50 - (18,4 + 17,2) = 14,4; 
the width of the shelf - 19,2 - 2 = is 17.2.
Allowance on the chest PG = 2.5 cm relates to the armhole. 
The width of the sections of the vest in the drawing, cm (Fig. 22): Г10Г11 = 18,4 + 1 = 19,4; Г11Г4 = 14,4 + 2,5 = 16,9; Г3Г4 = 17,2 + 1 = 18,2.
For building vest building a straight angle with the vertex at the point A. 
the Level of the waist line is measured by the length of at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46,5 cm 
Level of the chest the first method is determined by the formula AG = VLOOKUP.s + 4.5 V = 21,4 + 4,5 = 25,9 cm chest Level with the second method, is determined by the formula TG = WB - 3,5 = 24,1 - 3,5 = 20,6 cm
The level of convexity of the blades determines the length of a y = 0,3 Dt.s = 0.3 x 45,5 = 13,7 cm the length of the vest determines the length of an = at + (8...10) = 46,5 + 10 = 56,5 cm (T = 8...10 cm). 
Up from point And vertical and right horizontal delay of 0.5 - 0.7 cm (points A0 and A01).
The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the hem НН1 = 1.5 cm Retraction of the middle line of the back at the level of convexity of the blades УУ1' = 0.3 cm. From the point T1 down the line Т1Н1 lay 5 cm (point N11). From the point H1 to the right horizontally lay 3 cm (point H12). Point H11 and H12 connect with a straight line. The middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y1', T1, H11 and H12. The middle line of the back intersects with the line of the chest at point G10. From the point G10 to the right lay the width of the back Г10Г11 = 19,4 cm (in accordance with a preliminary calculation).Next, lay the width of the openings Г11Г4 = 17 cm (according to preliminary calculation) and the width of the shelves Г3Г4 = 18.2 cm (in accordance with a preliminary calculation).
Through the point G3 hold vertical (line polutanata), which intersects with the horizontal from point A to point A1 with the horizontal from point T at the point T8; with the horizontal from point N to point H4. From H4 point down the line а1Н4 lay 5.5 cm (point D5). Point And right horizontal delay period equal to Г10Г11 the segment (point a); from point A1 to the left lay a segment equal to segment Г3Г4 (point A2). Point and G11 and G4 and A2 connect in straight lines. 
Width of the neck backless cut is determined by А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats = 20,5/3 + 1,3 = 8,1 cm
The height of the neck of the backrest is determined by the segment A1A2 = А01А1/3 + Pshow = 8,1/3 + 1 = 3.7 cm. 
the height of the armhole of the backrest is determined by the cut Г11П2 x 0.5 DP + 6,5 = 0,5 x 36,1 + 6,5 = 24.5 cm. 
Deflection of the shoulder line А2А20 = 0.6 cm А2А20' = 1 cm the Length of shoulder seam lay from a point 20' through the point P2. While П2П1 = 2...2.5 cm. 
From the point G11 to the right lay the cut Г11Г5 = 0,5Г11Г4 a + 3.5 = 0.5 x 17 + a 3.5 = 12 cm 
Auxiliary point 1 is on the bisector of the angle П2Г11Г4, and Г₁₁1 = 0,25Г11Г4 = 0.25 x 17 = 4.2 cm
Point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point and direct Г11а. The armhole line of the back is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1, and G5. 
Side cut backless built on the vertical from point G5. Vertical from point G5 intersects with the waist line at point T3, and the bottom line at the point H2. Up from point H2 postpone 1 cm (point N21). To the left of the point T3 postpone 1 cm (point T2). The points H12 and H21 connect direct. The line of the side cut backless conducted through G5, T2 and N21.
Products attached, including jacket, waist design tucks. The amount of solutions tucks at the waist is determined by the formula ∑ = (SG + PG) - (St + PT) = (50 + 2,5) - (44 + 2,5) = 6 see 
From the amount of Darts ∑subtracted in the difference of the lengths ТТ1 and ГГ10. Cut ГГ10 = 1 see ТТ1 - ГГ10 = 3 - 1 = 2 cm 
∑in - 2 = 6 - 2 = 4 cm is the sum of the solutions of the three Darts. Solution Darts at the back equal to 0.3 x 4 = 1.2 cm; solution side tuck is 0.5 x 4 = 2 cm; front tuck solution = 0.2 x 4 = 0.8 cm;
Darts at the back of the building on the vertical from point G11 to the bottom line. The upper end of the tuck is located below the point G11 to 7.5 cm 
To detect the point A4 the segment A1A2 is divided in half, i.e. а1А4 = A1A2/2. Through the point A4 of the vertical hold down to the intersection with the waist line at point T4. From the point T4 up vertically postpone the cut, which determines the position of the highest point of the neck A41 - Т4А41 = Dt.p - SSH 0,4 + 0,5 = 55,6 - 0.4 x 20,5 + 0,5 = 47,9 = 48 cm
The height of the openings of the shelves is determined by the cut Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 3.5 mm = 0.5 x 36,1 + 3,5 = 21,5 cm Length of the shoulder cut is determined by the cut А41П50 = А20'P1 - 0,7. 
Bevel line of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm 
Point P6 to point touch the armhole line Г4П4 = 6 cm.
Auxiliary point is on the bisector of the angle П6Г4Г5, and Г₄2 = Г₁₁1 - 1. Auxiliary point 3 is determined on the straight П5П6 cut П₅3 = П5П6/2. Auxiliary point 4 is determined by the segment 3 - 4 = 1 see a Line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, P6, 2, and G5. The deflection of the side cut shelves on the waist line Т3Т31 = 1, see the line of the side cut of the shelves is carried out through G5, T31 and N21.
The front ends of the side and top of the pockets should be on the vertical line passing through the points Г60 and T40. The position of the points and determine Г60 T40, leaving right from the point G6 to the chest line and the point T4 on the waist 2 cm, i.e. Г6Г60 = Т4Т40 = 2 cm 
From the point Г60 left horizontally lay the width of the leaves (point Г62). From the point Г60 down vertical lay 3 cm (point K3). From the point Г62 down vertical lay 2 cm (point K4). Width leaves the top of the pocket in the General case equal to 2 cm.
The length of the upper leaves are uniform in dimensions, cm: 44 - 48 size - 8; for 50 - 54 size - 9 to 9.5; for 56 - 64 sizes of 9.5 - 10. 
From the point T40 down vertical lay 3.5 cm (point K1). Through Г62 and K4 conduct vertical down to the intersection with the waist line at point T41. From this point down vertically lay 2.5 cm (dot K20). Through the points K1 and K20 make a direct left, at which point the K20 lay cut К20К2 = 3 cm 
Width leaves the side of the pocket is 2.5 cm +-Moda.
To build a front tuck determine the position of points Н34 and Г61. And Н4Н34 = 0,5Н4Н21 + 1,5; Г6Г61 = 1.5 cm 
Point Н34 Г61 and connect with a straight line. The upper end of the tuck does not reach the point Г61 7 Г61Н34 see the Line continue down to the bottom line. 
The vest can be designed-tab - satanic that stachivaya the front end to tuck on the back. The width of the strap in the front 3 cm, 2 cm end 

VEST single BREASTED 

When you build the vest determines the height of the notch, leaving line polutanata point A41 (Fig. 23) segment equal to the height of the tank, plus 1.5 cm (point T31). Point A41 and Г31 connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line А41Г31 equal to 0.5, see the line of the tank is carried out through the points A41 and Г31, continuing it down to the intersection with the edge side at point L. In this case А41Л = BB.W + 1,5 = 23 at + 1.5 = 24.5 cm.
Width of the bead is 2,5 cm On the bottom from the point H5 to the left horizontally lay 3 cm (point Н51). Point Н51 and N21 connect direct. The deflection in the middle of the straight Н51Н21 equal to 1 cm.
Through Н51 and H4 hold a straight line to the intersection with the rim at the point L1. 
Top loop features at the level of the point L; lower - point level L1. The distance between points L and L1 are divided into number equal to the number of loops minus 1. 

 Example. LL1 = 27 see the Number of loops 4. The distance between the hinges 27/3 = 9 see 

the double-BREASTED VEST

Drawing double-breasted vest, are based on drawing single breasted vest. Elongation line polutanata Н4Н5 = 3 cm (Fig. 24). The width of polutanata double-breasted vest, the upper loop - 7 cm, bottom 6 cm Width and shape of the lapel are performing in accordance with the model. 
The height of the tank is determined in the drawing, aside from the point A41 period equal to BB.W + 1,5 (dot Г31). Point A41 and Г31 connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line А41Г31 equal to 0.3, see the Line of the cut carried out through the points A41 and Г31, continuing it down to the intersection with the edge side at point L.
From the point H5 to the right on the horizontal lay 6 cm (point Н51). Point L and Н51 connect with a straight line. From the point H5 to the left horizontally lay 5 cm (point Н52). Point Н52 and H2 connect with a straight line. 
To build a front tuck determine the position of points Н34 and Г61: Н4Н34 = 0,5Н4Н2 + 2,5; Г6Г61 = 2, see Point Н34 Г61 and connect with a straight line. The upper end of the tuck does not reach the point Г61 7 Г61Н34 see the Line continue down to the bottom line. Solution Darts at the waist line of 0.8 - 1 cm 
the Upper loop is located at the point L; lower - level line Н4Н2.

VEST FRACHNYH

Features of the vest frachnyh lies in the fact that the height of the tank increases. The principle of construction of the vest frachnyh corresponds to the construction of single-breasted vest. Lapels can have a different shape and length depending on the style (Fig. 25).