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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

Design of lining and derived parts


 LINING THE FRONT HALVES OF TROUSERS. The lining of the front halves of the pants are doing to prevent the latter from stretching in use. The lining also provides the necessary sliding movement. 
Cut out the lining of a silk fabric 10 - 15 cm shorter than the front halves of trousers (Fig. 3), i.e. Н1Н11 = Н2Н21 = 10...15 cm 
When namatanai lining on the front half over the Darts on the lining lay pleats. 
From the knee down to the lining on the width of cut 0.5 cm of the top, i.e. К1К10 = К2К20 = 0.5 cm; Н11Н12 = Н21Н22 = 0.5 cm 

 AND FLY OTCASEK. Trousers with a stitched waistband and button tabs length Odeska and fly determined in accordance with the length of the line bow Т21Б7 (see Fig. 3). on the front halves of trousers. B7 point located below the point B2 on the line of the bow on 1.5 cm 
trousers without straps in length Odeska and fly and take into account the width of the belt, and on Odeske make a ledge with a loop for the clasp. 
The drawing patterns Odeska trousers with stitched belt and strap lay the following segments (Fig. 4, a): 1 - 2 = Т21Б7; 2 - 3 = 2.5 cm; 2 - 4 = 0,1 SB; 2 - 5 = 0,7 cm.
Through points 4 and 5 is carried out in a concave line and its continuation from the point 5 lay 1.5 cm (point b). Point b and 3 link direct. The front section Odeska spend through points 1, 4, 5 and 6. The left contours postpone for the following parameters:
point-1 the width of the buttonhole at the top 1 - 11 = 3.5 cm; 
from point 4 the width of the codpiece at the bottom 4 - 41 = 5.2 cm 
On the bisector of the angle 41 - 4 - 2 cut 4 - 41 (point 42). Through point 11, 41, 42, and 3 hold the line of the rear cut accosca.
The drawing patterns Odeska for pants with clinofibrate belt without a waist strap (Fig. 4, d) lay the following segments: 1 - 2 = Т21Б7 + PN.p (PN.p - allowance for the width of the belt); 2 - 3 = 2.5 cm; 2 - 4 = 0,1 SB; 2 - 5 = 0,7, see 
Through the points 4 and 5 is carried out in a concave line and its continuation from the point 5 lay 1.5 cm (point 6). Points 6 and 3 link direct. The front section Odeska carry through. points 1, 4, 5 and 6. Down from point 1 delay period of 1 - 10 = 0,5 FR + 1, then the left horizontal segment of 10 - 12 = 8 cm.
Trousers with stitched belt (see Fig. 4) fly cutting mold Odeska with the elongation of 0.5 cm for planting between loops fly with zipper on three loops. At the same time: 1 - 2 = Т21Б7 + 0,5; 2 - 3 = 2.7 cm; 2 - 5 = 1 cm Width of buttonhole 1 - 11 = 5 cm; 4 - 41 = 4,8 cm 
For pants with belt no strap in the length of the fly shall take into account the allowance for the width of the belt. 
Drawing patterns strip Odeska are based on patterns Odeska of the main fabric. Trousers with a stitched waistband and waist tabs she fits the mold Odeska of the main fabric (see Fig. 4, a).
For clinofibrate pants with belt and without belt tabs strip at the top to extend 0.5 cm (Fig. 4, g), i.e. period 1 - 13 = 0.5 cm Point 13 is connected to the point 4. The right to lay horizontals: 1 width Odeska top 1 - 11 = 6 cm; from a point 4 width Odeska below 4 - 41 = 5 cm 
On the bisector of the angle 41 - 4 - 2 lay a segment equal to segment 4 - 41 (point 42). 
From a point 10 lay cut 10 - 12 = 8, see Points 11 and 12 connect with a straight line. Through the points 12, 41, 42, and 3 hold the line the back of the cut strip.
Trousers with zipper on the braid-zipper seal to otcasek do not. 
Drawing patterns lining Odeska build on the basis of patterns pads have allowances in front of the cut (Fig. 4, e). 1 - 13 = 1.5 cm; 4 - 43 = 1.2 cm; 6 - 7 = 1 see 
the Drawing of patterns of the lining of piping and codpiece front cut left halves of the pants are based on patterns fly of the main fabric (Fig. 4, b and C). The length of the lining cut out more of the fly by 1 cm In the Studio of the highest category of internal slice fly around the lining and cut of 0.8 cm wider than the item top (see Fig. 4, b). 

 BELT. In the individual production of trousers belt are of various kinds. The most common of the three types of belts: belt with hook-and-eye, waistband with button tabs and a wide youth zone. In Fig. 5, and shows a drawing of the belt without the strap, and Fig. 5, the drawing of the belt with the strap. The belt is cut in two parts - right and left. Belt length without strap is equal to poluobhvat waist customer plus 1 cm for the seam, plus 3 cm on the seam and the width of the margin to seam of the seat. The width of the belt (see Fig. 5, a) AB = BG = 5.5 cm; belt length AB = VG = 0.5 St + 4.
Belt strap is cut with an extension to the length of the strap. The length of the strap (Fig 5, b) BB1 = ГГ1 = 9 cm the AB = BG = 5.5 cm or AB = VG = 0.5 St + 3 (3 cm seam allowance and reserves the seam of the seat). 
Drums - valances side pockets with pokrainini barrels. Tilts his pants pockets with pokrainini barrels are set in accordance with the model or with the agreement of the customer.
Barrels perform in accordance with the inclination of the pocket on the top and side sections of the front halves of trousers. Here is an example in the drawing barrel - valance trousers with stitched belt (Fig. 5,) with a moderate slant pocket: Т11К0 = 5 cm; К0К1 = (1 cm seam protecive belt). From the point K1, conduct an arc of radius equal to the length of the pocket in finished form, and at the intersection with the line of stitching of the side seam of the front halves of trousers put a point K2. The perpendiculars from the points K1 and K2 to the line К1К2 lay the width of the valance К1К11 = К2К21 = 5 cm.From the point K2 is carried out in a horizontal line to the left and its intersection with side cut put a point on the K20. On continuation of the line К11К21 lay down 2 cm (point K4). Line К11К21 continue upward to its intersection with the waist line put a point K12. From the point K4 is carried out direct to the left parallel to the line К2К21 and at the intersection with the line side of the slice put a point K3.
Construction drawing barrel - valance for pants with a large slope of the pocket (Fig. 5, g), i.e. Т11К0 = 11 cm; К0К1 = (1 cm seam protecive belt). From the point K1, conduct an arc of radius equal to the length of the pocket in finished form, and at its intersection with the line of stitching of the side seam of the front halves of trousers put a point K2. The perpendiculars from the points K1 and K2 to the line К1К2 lay the width of the valance: К1К11 = К2К21 = 5 cm 
From the K2 point spend a horizontal line to the left and at the intersection with its side cut to put points on the K20. On continuation of the line К11К21 lay down 2 cm (point K4).
Point K11 connected to the point T. From the point K4 is carried out direct to the left parallel to the line К2К21 and at the intersection with the line side of the slice put a point K3. 

 BURLAP POCKETS. Drawing burlap for slanted pockets (waist banded) build on top of the front halves of trousers. From points T11 and K20 (Fig. 6, a) lay to the left by 1 cm and put, respectively, point T12 and K22. Through the points T12 and T perform live. From point K0 to the right lay 1 cm (point К01). Point К01 and K2 connect line. On a line drawn through the points K22 and K2, lay the width of the burlap, which is determined by the width of the front halves of trousers on the hips К22К23 = Б1Б2/2 + 5. Through the point К23 spend the vertical up and down. At its intersection with the waist line put a point T14. From the point К23 down delay period equal to 12 - 14 cm (point К24).On the perpendicular from a point to a straight K22 К22К23 lay down 12 - 14 cm (dot K25). Point К24 and K25 connect direct. Segments К23К24 and К22К25 equal and define the required depth of the side pockets, satisfying the utilitarian requirements of all sizes and Rostov. On continuation of the line К22Т12 up lay cut Т12Т13 = 1.5 cm Point T13 and T14 connect direct. Cut Т13Т14 determines the width of the burlap at the top. Direct К2К01 continue up and at the intersection with the line Т13Т14 put a point K13, and К13К14 = 0.5 cm.
Point K14 T14 and connect direct. K25 from the point up and to the right lay for 8 cm and dots 1 and 2. Straight line connecting points 1 and 2, divided in half (point 3). Straight line connecting points 3 and K25, divided in half (point 4). Through the points 1, 4, and 2, hold the line of curvature of the burlap. 

 VALVES BACK POCKET. In the valve in its imposition top edge to the line of the cut of the pocket weft thread must match the thread on the rear half of the pants. When cutting the valve from fabrics with stripes or plaid to it is given the amount necessary for the pattern on the valve match the pattern on the back half of the pants. Allowance to the valve for fabrics with stripes - 2 - 3 cm, fabric in a cage - depending on the size of the cells. 
The length of the valve at the top is determined by the length of the cut valve (Fig. 6, b); AA1 = DP.to + 1.5 cm (DP.to the length of the cut of the pocket).
Valve width in the middle А2А21 = 7 cm; the ends AB = А1Б1 = 5.5 cm 
Podlipan cut from lining fabric on the form of the valve. The warp yarn runs along podlipan parallel to line AA1. 

 THE VALANCE, BURLAP FACING AND BACK POCKET. The valance for the rear pocket made of lining fabric in the joint area. The valance back pocket has a rectangular shape (Fig. 6) with the warp yarn in shared direction. The length of the valance equal to the length of the cut pocket plus 4 cm Width of the valance is around 6.5 cm If a rear pocket is designed without a valve, then cut the valance of the main fabric. In this case, the length of the valance is reduced by 1.5 cm (0.7 cm each side).
The facing for the back pocket cut out in the joint direction of the main fabric. The facing also imit the shape of a rectangle (Fig. 6, g). The length of the piping, and valance, equal to the length of the cut pocket plus 4 cm Width of the piping is 4.5 cm, the Burlap for the back pocket cut out so that the warp yarn passed along its length (Fig. 6, d). 
The width of the burlap AA1 = DP.to + 5. 
If, for example, the length of the cut rear pocket 14 cm, AA1 = 14 + 5 = 19 see
The length of the burlap should be such that one side of it went over the grub pockets 3 cm; distance of the burlap from the line of primaqiune the waist to the cut of the pocket is 8 cm, plus 1.5 cm; usable depth of burlap 14 cm multiplied by 2. From this it follows that the length of the burlap AB = А1Б1 = 3 + 8 + 1,5 + 14 x 2 = 40,5 cm 

 VALANCE AND BURLAP POCKET WATCH. The valance for the hour of his pants pocket cut from main fabric. The warp yarn runs along the length of the valance. The length of the valance is equal to the size of the pocket plus 3 cm, a width of 5 cm Burlap for the watch pocket is a rectangular strip. Warp yarn should pass over the length of the burlap. Burlap length 18 cm, width equal to the length of the pocket plus 4 cm.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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