JEANS

Drawing in jeans built on the basis of the usual construction of trousers with some changes in the construction of the front and rear halves. Cut yoke on the back half is constructed in such a way as to provide a snug fit in the hips with minimal wet-heat treatment. Jeans most often have a low fit, so the seat height is reduced by 3 to 4 cm 

in addition to the basic measurements determine the width of the jeans above the knee for 10 - 15 cm (Sh). 

The figure measuring cm: 

SG = 50 DSB = 110,8
St = 43 (with low-slung pants) SN = 24 
SB = 50,5 SHK = 24 
Dt.s = 45,7 RP.n = 5
Allowance for loose fit to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 0...1 see 

 the Front half of the pants. Pants length (Fig. 7) TN = DSB - RP.n = 110,8 - 5 = 105,8 cm 

seat Height TN = TB - 4 + BOJ = 19,2 - 4 + 6 = 21,2 cm (19.2 cm - length of the segment TB of the table. 1), i.e., the seat height reduced by 4 cm. 

the Height of the knee, BK = bn/2. Height over the knee CC' = 10 cm Width at the level of the hip line Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB = 0.5 x 50,5 = 25,3 cm

Step width at the level of the hip line Б2Б21 = 0,1(SB + Pb) - 1,5 = 0,1(50,5 + 0) - 1,5 = 3,5 see below НН1 Width = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 24 = 12 cm the Width at knee level KK1 = KK2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 24 = 12 cm Width above the knee K'1 = K'2 = 0,5 Sh K = 0.5 x 24 = 12 cm Width on the line of the buttocks Я1Я2 = Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB = 0.5 x 50,5 = 25,3 cm On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я5 lay cut Я₂1 = 0,3Б2Я2. Lowering the line of the bow is determined by the cut Т2Т21 = 0.5 cm Width at the waist line Т21Т1 = 0.5 PT + 2 = 0.5 x 43 + 2 = 23.5 cm the Highest point in the lateral slice determined by the cut Т1Т11 = 1 cm.The deflection in the middle of the line Т11Б1 equal to 0.7, see

To build the pocket on the side cut from point T3 to a radius of 11 cm carried out an arc that crosses the line of the upper edge of the front halves of trousers at the point C7 and the line of the side cut front halves at the point K8. 

Slip pocket in the side pocket located on the upper edge at a distance of 4 - 4.2 cm, side 3 cm Deflection in the middle of the lines Я1К1' and Я21К2' equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Deflection bottom line point-N - up 1 see 

 3адняя half of the pants. The side and bottom slices of the stepper is determined by the segments Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2, see the side and step sections on the lines the knee and above the knee: К1К3 = К2К4 = 2 cm; К1'K3' = K4 К2'' = 2, see 

Point B3 is located on the line of the hips, and Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(50,5 + 0) = 5 see

To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B2 up vertically, lay the cut Б2Б20 = 0,1 SB = 0,1 50,5 x = 5 cm From point B3 of radius equal to the calculated width of the rear half at the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal from the point of the G20; Б3Б5 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 = (50,5 + 0 + 3) - 25,3 = 28,2 see

Down from point Я3 line Я3К3' lay cut Я3Я30 = Б2Б20. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants to the hips, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point I; Я30Я4 = Б3Б5. Through the points H4 and B5 have been holding up a line that intersects with the line of the hips at the point B4, and with the waist at the point T4. While Т4Т5 = Б4Б5 - balance of the pants. 

Step width of the rear halves of the pants Я4Я5 = 0,25 SB - 3 = 0.25 x 50,5 - 3 = 9,6 cm

On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay cut Я₄2 = 1.5 cm From the point AM5 down vertical lay 2 cm (point AM6). The deflection in the middle of the straight line К4'AM6 equal to 1.7 cm, 

Width of the rear halves of the pants at the waist Т5Т3 = 0.5 St + Lim = 0.5 x 43 + 1 = 22,5 cm the Position of the centreline of the rear tuck on the top slice back halves is determined by the cut Т3Т31 = 0,5Т3Т5. Down on the perpendicular from the point T31 to a straight Т3Т5 lay length centerline Т31К52 = 8 cm 

 the features of the construction of the yoke. Down from point T5 through the seat Т5Я4 lay cut Т5Т33 = 9.5 cm. Downward from the point T3 on the line side of the slice Т3Б3 lay cut ТЗТ32 = 6.5 cm.

Point T32 and T33 connect with a straight line and at the intersection of the centerline of Т31К52 put a point P4. When you build the solution back yoke Darts equal to 3 cm, being transferred to the yoke. To do this, from the point K52 with a radius equal to the segment К52Т31, hold the arc to the left and right down. At the intersection with its direct Т32Т33 respectively put points R and R1. On these arcs from points P and P1 on the chord up lay 0.5 solution back tuck (points P2 and P3). While PP2 = 0.5 x 3 = 1.5 cm; Р1Р3 = 0.5 x 3 = 1.5 cm.

Through the points P4 and P2 and P4 and P3 is carried out straight lines on which the segments lay Р4Т32' = Р4Т32; Р4Т33' = Р4Т33. 

From the point P4 up lines К52Т31 lay 1cm (point P4'). The lower section of the yoke passes through the point T32', P2', P4', P3 and T33'. 

From the point T31 with a radius equal to the segment Т31Т3, hold the arc and the chord of its delay period equal to the segment Т32Т32' (point T3'). 

From the point T31 with a radius equal to the segment Т31Т5, hold the arc and its chord delay period equal to the segment Т33Т33' (period T5'), From the point T31 up the line К52Т31 lay 1 cm (point T31').

The upper section of the yoke passes through the point Т3'T31' and T5'. Point T3' and T32' connect a smooth line, and the point T5' T33' direct. 

 The size and position of the rear pocket in finished form: entry length 14 cm, the height of the pocket in the middle 15 cm, the length of the side sections of the pocket 11 cm, length of the side bevels 7 cm, strap width in finished form 2.5 cm 

SHORTS

Drawing shorts built on the basis of drawing jeans. Allowance at the hip line is 0 - 1 cm For tight fit jeans in the thigh area of the front half on the line of the buttocks builds to the measure of the circumference of the hips* Lunch at the level of the buttock cheek meets the thigh folds (Fig. 8). In this case, the cut Я1Я21 = 0,5 Lunch + 1. To determine the width of the step front halves define the difference Я21Я2 = Я1Я21 - SB/2. From the point H2 is carried out vertical up to the waist line and at the intersection with the line of the hips put a point B2. To the left of point B2 lay horizontally the width of the front halves Б1Б2 = Я1Я2.

To determine the length of the shorts from dot I down bend lines lay cut IAN = 0,2 DK + 3. Width of the front halves of the shorts underneath Н1Н2 = 0,5 Lunch - 2. From point N to both sides lay segments (0.5 Lunch - 2)/2. НН1 = НН2 = (0,5 Lunch - 2)/2. 

To build the rear half of shorts from point H1 postpone cuts Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2, see Point B3 and H3 and connect straight to the point of its intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я3.

The width of the rear halves along the line of the buttocks Я3Я5 = (V + Pb + PN) - Я1Я21 (Pb - allowance to the circumference of the thigh; PN - seam). Allowance to the hip girth for a tight fit 4 - 6 see below the drawing built in the usual way. 

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* Girth of hips Lunch - extra dimension different from measuring the circumference of the hips (19). To determine the girth of the thigh Lunch sent the tape horizontally around the hips, touching the upper edge of the the desired length of fold. 

PANTS MADE OF CORDUROY OR OTHER COTTON FABRICS 

The design of the pants made of corduroy and cotton fabrics make changes in the construction of the rear halves of the pants. The upper part of the rear halves of the line of knee to waist compared to the standard design is withdrawn to the left so that wet-heat treatment of the rear halves to eliminate or to minimize. 

 The rear half of the pants. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 = 0 (Fig. 9) and Н2Н4 = 4 see the side and step sections of the rear halves of the pants on the lines of the knee and above the knee is determined by the segments К1К3 = 0; К2К4 = 4 cm; К1'K3' = 0; К2'K4' = 4 cm 

to the Left from the point B1 on the horizontal lay cut Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + 2) - 1 (2 cm allowance to the poluobhvat hips).

Point K3' and B3 connect by a straight line. To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B2 up vertically, lay the cut Б2Б20 = 0,1 SB is 1.5. From point B3 of radius equal to the calculated width of the rear half at the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal from the point of the G20 and at the intersection of put a point B5. While Б3Б5 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2.

To determine the width of the rear halves of the trousers on the buttocks line from point Я3 down the line Я3К1' lay cut Я3Я30 = Б2Б20. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants to the hips, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point I and the intersection of dot H4. While Я30Я4 = Б3Б5. A fold line on the back half moves to the right (see dotted line). Line the seat is moved from point T5 to the left by 1 cm Respectively moves to the left of the point T3 (see dotted lines). All other construction performed in the usual way. 

PANTS WITHOUT SIDE SEAMS

Build two perpendicular lines with a vertex at point H1 (Fig. 10). The seat height Я1Т1 specify the previously specified or calculated way, then Я1Т1 = 0,5 SB - 2. 

 This calculation is applied to the IV growth. The change from growth to growth of +0.5 cm. 

From point T1 to bottom vertically lay cut Т1Н1 equal to the length of the pants. The hips is carried out through the point B1, and Я1Б1 = 6 cm the Height of the knee is determined by dividing the distance between the hips and the bottom half, i.e. Б1К1 = Б1Н1/2. Determine the overall width of the pants at the hip line and put it from the point B1 equal, i.e. Б1Б2 = Б1Б4 = 0,5(SB + Pb + PN). The seam allowance is 1 cm From the point B1 with a radius equal to the segment Б1Б4, hold the arc and its chord postpone the cut, Б4Б5 = 0,1 SB is 1.5. To the left of the point B4 lay 0,25Б4Б5 (point B6).Through the point B2 is carried out vertical up and down and at its intersection with the waist line put a point T2, and the line of the buttocks - H2. Through the points B5 and B6 hold the line of the seat and at its intersection with the waist line put a point T4, and the line of the buttocks - H4. The top of the front halves of the draw, putting down and left segments Т2Т21 = 0.7 cm and Т21Т22 = 1 see Points T22 and B2 connect direct. Point upward from the T4 delay period Т4Т5 = Б5Б6.

Point T22 and T1 as well as T5 and T1 connect by straight lines. 

Total step width Я2Я21 + Я4Я5 = 0,3(SB + IB) is 1.2. 

The width on the waist line define line Т22Т5, the length of which is subtracted poluobhvat waist, St, and the difference contribute to the solution of tucks and folds. The length of the Darts into the side seam 12 cm 

width of the hem is determined by the circumference of the ankle. Tight fit of the pants at the bottom, when the bottom side is sewn the braid-lightning to the girth of the ankle. add a 5 cm width is Obtained aside from the point H1 to the left and right equally Н1Н2 = Н1Н4 = 0,5 (A + 5).

Down from points AM5 and Я21 lay 1 cm (point AM6 and Я22). Point Я22 and H2 and H4 and connect the AM6 straight lines. 

The deflection of a line knee length defined segments: К4К40 = 1...2 cm; К2К20 = 1...2 cm 

For clearance of the bottom define the position of points H20 and H40: Н1Н20 = 0,5 Н1Н2; Н1Н40 = 0,5 Н1Н4. From points H20 and H40 drop the perpendiculars, respectively, to the line extension Я22Н2 and Я6Н4. The points of intersection of the N21 and Н41. The bottom line spend through points Н41, H40, H1, H20 and H21.