A good fit depends largely on the accuracy of the measurements (dimensions) and the ability to apply those measurements that most fully displays the features of the physique of the figure, its deviation from the standard.
From cutter requires in-depth knowledge of design methods, ability to use the entire set of dimensions OST 17-325 - 81 depending on the complexity of the figure.
Figures measured with measuring tape. The man which taking measurements, must stand still, without strain, without changing the normal posture.
For a precise definition of the waist line of the figure in the areas of maximum deflection of the waist must be girt with a cord, and check its levelness by measuring centimeter distance from the lace to the floor front and back. Greater accuracy of the measurements is necessary because an error in any measure lead to incorrect implementation of the design drawing.
Measurement of the shape conventionally denoted by the following letters: H - height; D - length, distance; loops; R - rising; C - poluobhvat; W - width; D - depth.
The total number of dimensional signs OST 17-325 - 81 to construct the pants according to individual orders of the most expedient the following (Fig. 1):
1 (16) - chest girth third Oh;
2 (18) - waist circumference;
3 (17) - hip About;
4 (40) - back length to waist with consideration of protrusion of the blades Dt.with;
5 (25) - distance from the waist line to the floor to the side of the DRC;
6 (26) - distance from the waist line to the floor in front of Chipboard;
7 (21) - the circumference of thigh About;
8 (22) - circumference of knee OK;
9 (28) - calf circumference OI;
10 (24) - circumference of the ankle..
Numbers in brackets denote the number of dimensional signs OST 17-325 - 81.
The width of the pants at the bottom and at knee level is determined in accordance with the direction of fashion and in coordination with the customer.
When you build design drawings of the pants use poluobhvat: Sh, St, SB. To simplify the calculations further dimension SG will be denoted by SG.
Allowances for free customized fit to poluobhvat waist and hips for the waist products depending on the silhouette of the next cm:
| |
Skintight |
Adjacent |
Poluprilegayuschy |
| Cotton apparel fabric |
0 - 1 |
1 - 1,5 |
2 - 3 |
| Worsted fabrics |
0 - 1 |
1 - 1,5 |
2 - 3 |
| Fine and grybauskiene fabric |
1 |
1,5 - 2 |
2,5 - 3,5 |
Notes:
1. Trousers designed to be worn without a belt or under the belt without regulation, an allowance at the waist in the presence of measurements taken with the figure, not given, and to model the figures add 1 see
2. Trousers with adjustable fit at the waist allowance in the regulation of the equal 2 - 3 cm
3. Trousers with elastic, cord allowance at the waist and hips give in accordance with the model.
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