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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

O-shaped legs


To build the pants into the shape O-shaped legs in addition to the main measurement determine the distance between the legs at the level of the knee cups horizontally. Unlike the design of the pants on the figure with the correct structure of the legs in the design line of the buttocks, hips and waist are moved in a clockwise direction with centers at the points I, B, T (Fig. 14). 
The figure measuring cm: 
SG = 50; Dt.C = 45,5; SHK = 25; 
St = 44; DRC = 105,8; O = 10; 
SB = 52; SN: = 25; TB =19,2 (see table. 1). 
Allowance for loose fit to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2 cm 

 Front half. Pants length TN = DRC + PN = 105,8 + 1 = 106,8 cm seat Height TN = TB + 6 = 19 2x + 6 = 25,2 cm, Height of knee, BK = bn/2. 
To determine the amount of displacement of the line of the buttocks, thighs, and waist from point lay To cut КК5 = 0.3 x 10 = 3 see Point 5 and I connect with a straight line. Line of the buttocks, hips, waist must be perpendicular to the line ЯК5. 
For determining the fold line from the point To the left lay the cut КК51 = 0,25КК5 = 0.25 x 3 = 0.75 cm, the fold Line is carried out through the points K51 and I to the intersection with the waist line at point T'. Point K51 N and connect with a straight line.
 Such an intersection of fold lines are allowed in the solid tissues. The tissues in the cell (the bar) a fold line build vertically and is carried out through the points T, K and N. 
The width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line is determined by the rate of 0.5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 52 + 2 = 28 cm step Width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line is equal to 0.1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(52 + 2) = 5,4 see the Width of the front halves at the level of the hips and the width of the step at the level of the hip line in the amount of 0,5 SB + 2 + 0,1(SB + IB) = SB 0,6 + 1,2 = 0.6 x 52 + 1,2 = 32,4 cm
From point B to the left and to the right lay the segments BB1 = ББ21 = (0,6 SB + 1,2)/2 = 32,4/2 = 16,2 see 
the Width of the front halves lay at the bottom of the H-point and НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm Width of the front halves at the level of a line knee length determined by the lengths К51К1 = К51К2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 25 = 12.5 cm 
Side cut is performed through the point H1, K1' and B1. At the intersection of this line with the line of the buttocks, put the point H1. Line of step cut is performed through the point H2, K2' Б21. At the intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я21.
The width of the front halves of the line of buttocks aside from the point H1 to the right, and Я1Я2 = Б1Б2. 
Regardless of the changes in the provisions of the line of the buttocks, hips and waist line bow build vertically. This bow maintains the pattern on the fabric (strips or cells). From the point B2 is carried up the vertical to the intersection with the waist line at point T2. 
Points B2 and H2 connect the auxiliary straight line. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я₂1 = 0,3Б2Я2. The position of the point T2 does not change. The line of the bow to carry through the point T2, B2, 1 and Я21.
The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line defines the cut Т2Т1 = 0.5 St + 2 + 2 = 0.5 x 44 + 2 + 2 = 26 cm (the position of the point T2 does not change). From the point T (T') to the right and to the left lay the mortar or tuck pleats. The rest of the building is carried out in the usual way. 

 The rear half. In this example, the rear half of the pants are built separately from the front half. Spend two perpendicular lines and their intersection put a point Y. Determine the position of the lines of hips, waist, elbows and bottom, respectively with points B, T, K and N.
The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments НН3 = НН4 = 0,5 SN + 2 = 0.5 x 25 + 2 = 14.5 cm. the side and step sections of the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee is determined by the segments К51К3 = К51К4 = 0,5 SHK + 2 = 0.5 x 25 + 2 = 14.5 cm.
The side and stepped sections at the level of the hip line segments is determined ББ3 and ББ4. The width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line passing through the point B, is Б3Б4 = SB + Pb + PN - Б1Б2 + 0,7 = 52 + 2 + 3 - 28 + 0,7 = 29,7 see cut Width ББ3 = 0,7Б3Б4 = 0.7 x 29,7 = 20,79 = 21 cm Width of cut ББ4 = 29,7 - 21 = 8,7 cm
Point K3' and B3 connect by a straight line and its intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я3. From the point Я3 down the line Я3К3 lay cut Я3Я30 = 0,1 SB - 1,5 = 0.1 x 52 - 1,5 = 3.7 cm. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants to the hips, make a notch on the straight line passing through the point I and the intersection of dot H4; Я30Я4 = SB/2 + 3 = 52/2 + 3 = 29 see
Through the points H4 and B5 have been holding up a line that intersects with the line of the hips at the point B4, and with the waist at the point T4. From the point H4 to the hip line lay the width of the step rear halves of the pants Я4Я5 = 0,25 SB - 1 = 0.25 x 52 - 1 = 12 cm 
On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay cut Я₄2 = 1.5 cm From the point AM5 down vertical lay 2 cm (point AM6). The line of seats is carried out through the point T5, B5, B4, 2 and AM6. Point K4' and AM6 connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the straight line К4'AM6 equal to 1.2, see



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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