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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

Pieces with different posture and position of the pelvis


In Fig. 12 shows the different position of the pelvis. The first shape (Fig. 12, a) the position of the pelvis is normal. The second figure (Fig. 12, b) the pelvis is excessively tilted forward and more often people have stooped. The third figure (Fig. 12) the pelvis is straightened and often people pereghibati. 

Considering all three cases, it should be noted that the second shape protrusion of the buttocks is increased, the third flattened compared to the first figure. Notch the waist in the second figure is much larger, and the third smaller than the first shape. The dimple waist is defined by an additional dimension - depth of the second waist.

The depth of the second waist GT (serial number 79 on the EAST 17-325 - 81) is determined by measuring the horizontal distance from a vertical plane tangent to the buttock points to the line applied horizontally to the longitudinal back muscles at the level of the waist line.

The normal position of the pelvis has a depth of the second waist GT, equal to an average of 3.6 cm. 

In the construction of the pants with the pelvis tilted forward (Fig. 12, g), amend the building line of the bow. From the point T2 to bottom vertically Т2Б2 lay cut Т2Т21 = 0,5 (GTF - GT), here GTP - depth of the second waist actual.

Right from the point T21 lay cut Т21Т22 = 0,3Т2Т21. 

The line of the bow to carry through the point T22, B2, 1 and Я21. The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line measure from the point T22. 

On the rear half of the pants cut Б1Б3 increased by 1 cm, i.e. Б1БЗ = 0,1(SB + IB) - 1 + 1. The line of the seat extend: Т4Т5 = Б4Б5 + 0,5(GTF - GT). 

In the design of the pants with the pelvis is straightened making the following changes. Up from point T2 (Fig. 12, d) lay the cut Т2Т21 = 0,5(GTF - GT). 

From the point T21 to the left lay the cut Т21Т22 = 0,3Т2Т21. The line of the bow is carried out using wheelbarrows T22, B2, 1 And Я21.

The width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line is determined from the point T22. On the rear half of the pants are cut slim Б1Б3 1 cm, i.e. Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + SP) - 1 - 0,5. Line seat shortened, so Т4Т5 = Б4Б5 - 0,5(GTF - GT).



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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