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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

The design of jumpsuit

Jumpsuit, below, is a constructive combination of vest and trousers. It can be worn with a jacket or without it. 

The dimensional characteristics of the model figures, see: 
SSH = 20,3; SB = 50,5; SHS = 20,5; 
SG = 50; CG = 19,2; Dt.C = 45,5; 
CT = 41; Dt.p = 55,8; CDF.s = 20,9 = 21 

, Prepose to freely fit to the bodice, see: 
PG = 2.5, And 3 PD.t.s = 1 
PT = 2,5...3,5 PD.t.p = 0,7 
PS.PR = 4...5 PN.throats = 1,3

Distribution measurements at the SG sites (Fig. 37), see: 
the width of the back is 20.5 - 2 = 18,5; 
to width shelves 19,2 - 2 = 17,2;
the width of the armhole 50 - (18,5 - 17,2) = 14,3. 

Allowance for breast relates to the armhole. 
The width of the sections of the bodice in the drawing, see: 
Г10Г11 = 18,5 + 1 = 10,5; 
Г11Г4 = 14,3 + 2,5 = 16,8; 
Г3Г4 = 17,2 + 1 = 18,2. 

 The rear half. Distance from waist line to floor at the side of DSB = 110,8 cm Width of trousers at the bottom SHN = 22 cm the Width of the pants at knee level SHK = 23 cm Distance from floor to hem pants RP.h = 7 cm 

Allowance for the free fit of the pants to the hips poluobhvat Pb = 2 cm 

To build the back build a right angle with vertex at point A, which corresponds to the neck point on the human figure.

The level of the waist line is measured by the length of at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46,5 cm 

the Level of the chest line AG = VLOOKUP.z + 5 = 21 + 5 = 26 see 

the Level of convexity of the blades determines the period of: a y = 0,3 Dt.s = 0.3 x 45,7 = 13,7 cm 

Up from point And vertical and right horizontal delay of 0.5 - 0.7 cm and put, respectively, the points A0 and A01. The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the level of convexity of the blades УУ1' = 0.3 cm. the Middle line of the back intersects with the line of the chest at point G10. From the point G10 to the right lay the width of the back Г10Г11 = 19.5 cm (according to preliminary calculation). From the point G11 to the right lay the cut Г11Г5 = 0,5 x 16.8 = 8,4 cm

Point And right horizontal delay period equal to the segment Г10Г11, and put a point. Point G11 and connect with a straight line. Width of the neck backless cut is determined by А01А2 = SSH/3 + PN.throats = 20,3/3 + 1,3 = 8 cm 

the height of the neck of the backrest is determined by the segment A1A2 = А01А1/3 + Pshow = 8/3 + 1 = 3.7 cm. the Slant of the shoulder line cut from point a is measured by the length аП2 = 1.2 cm 

Deflection of the shoulder line А20А2 = 0.6 cm; A2A'20 = 1 cm the Length of shoulder seam lay from point A'20 through the point P2, and П2П1 = 2 cm.

Auxiliary point 1 is on the bisector of the angle П2Г11Г5 and is measured by the length Г₁₁1 = 0,25 PDS = 0.25 x 17 = 4.2 cm 

Point P3 is located at the intersection of the horizontal line from the point and direct Г11а. 

The armhole line of the back is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1, and G5. Side cut backless built on the vertical from point G5. It intersects with the waist line at point T3. 

The deflection of the side cut on the line Т2Т3 = 1 cm Tuck on the back located on the vertical of the midpoint Т1Т2. 

Tuck on the back does not reach the chest on 7 see Solution Darts at the back equal to 2.5 cm.

To build the rear halves of the pants from point T1 to bottom vertically lay the cut is equal to Т1Т40 = 0,1 SB - 1,5 = 0.1 x 50,5 - 1,5 = 3,5 cm 

Point T40 and T2 connect by a straight line. From the point T1 to the right lay the cut Т1Т' = 0.1 St = 0.1 x 41 = 4,1 see 

Through the point T' is perpendicular to the line Т40Т2 carried down a line that intersects with the line Т40Т2 at the point T4. From the point T4 delay: 
the length of the pants - TN = RP.n + Psov - 7 = 110,8 + 1 - 7 = 104,8 cm; 
seat height - Т4Я = TB + 6 = 19 2x + 6 = 25.2 cm; 
line-knee - BK = bn/2.

The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments НН3 = НН4 = 0,5 SN + 2 = 0.5 x 22 + 2 = 13 see 

the Position of the side sections and stepping the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee is determined by the segments KK3 = КК4 = 0,5 SHK + 2 = 0.5 x 23 + 2 = 13.5 cm.

The side and step cut on the hips is determined by the segments ББ3 and ББ4. The width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line passing through the point B, is Б3Б4 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 + 0,7 (Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 50,5 + 2 = 27.3 cm - width of the front half at the hip line); ББ3 = 0,7Б3Б4 = 0.7 x 29 = 20.3 cm; ББ4 = Б3Б4 - ББ3 = 29 - 20,3 = 8,7, see 

Point B4 and T1 connect by a straight line. The point K4 and B3 connect by a straight line and at the intersection with the line of the buttocks to put points Я3. From the point Я3 down the line Я3К4 lay cut Я3Я30 = 0,1 SB - 1,5 = 0.1 x 50,5 - 1,5 = 3,5 cm

From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line make the cut on a straight line passing through the point I and the intersection of dot H4. Points H4 and B4 connect direct. From the point H4 postpone the width of the step rear halves of the pants: Я4Я5 = 0,25 SB - 2 = 0.25 x 50,5 - 2 = 10,6 cm 

On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay cut Я₄2 = 1.5 cm From the point AM5 down vertical lay 2 cm (point AM6). 

The line of seats is carried out through: T40, B4, 2 and AM6. Point K3 and AM6 connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line К3Я6 equal to 1.2, see 

 the Front half. To build shelves, build a right angle with the vertex at point A1. The level of the waist line is measured by the length а1Т8 = at (drawing back). 

The level of the chest is determined by the cut а1Г3 = AG (drawing back). From the points G3 and A1 to the left lay the width of the chest Г3Г4 = A1A2 = 18 cm (in accordance with a preliminary calculation). From the point G4 to the left lay the cut Г4Г5 = 0,5 x 16.8 = 8,4 cm

The position of the point A4 is measured by the length а1А4 = A1A2/2. Through the point A4 of the vertical hold down to the intersection with the waist line at point T4. From the point T4 up vertically postpone the cut, which determines the position of the highest point of the neck, Т4А41 = Dt.p - SSH 0,4 + 0,5 = 55,8 - 0.4 x 20,3 + 0,5 = 55,8 - 8,1 + 0,5 = 48,2 see 

To construct a line neckline shelves vest from point A41 of radius equal to the length of the cut, make a notch in the line of prosanos а1Т8 and put a point Г31.

To construct a line of the shoulder cut of point A41 to the left, hold the line, perpendicular to a straight А41Г3 where you lay the length of the shoulder cut А41П50 = А2П1 - 1 (А2П1 - drawing back). 

Bevel line of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm the position of the point P6 is determined by the cut Г4П6 = 6 see 

Point 2 lies on the bisector of the angle П6Г4Г5. While Г₄2 = Г₁₁1 - 1 (Г₁₁1 - drawing back). 

Auxiliary point 3 is determined on the straight П5П6 cut П₅3 = П5П6/2. Auxiliary point 4 is determined by the segment 3 - 4 = 1 see

The line of openings is carried out through point P5, 4, P6, 2, and G5. The deflection of the side cut shelves on the waist line is measured by the length Т3Т31 = 1 cm 

To build the top pocket of the leaflets determine the position of the point Г60: Г6Г60 = 2 cm 

From the point Г60 left horizontally lay the length of the leaves Г60Г62 = 0,2 SG - 1. Down vertical lay 2 cm (point K4). Leaves width 1.7 cm

To build the front half of the pants on the extension of the line of prosanos а1Т8 lay down the seat height. Т8Я2 = Т8Б2 + 6 = 19 2x + 6 = 25,2 see Through the point B2 is carried out the horizontal line where the right lay the cut Б2Б21 = 0,1 SB = 0,1 50,5 x = 5 cm to the Left of point B2 lay cut Б2Б1 = 0,5 SB + 2 = 0.5 x 50,5 + 2 = 27,3 cm 

, fold the front half of the pants passes through the point B, located at the midpoint of the segment Б1Б21, i.e. BB1 = ББ21 = Б1Б21/2.

The width of the pants at the bottom lay from the point N: НН1 = НН2 = 0,5 SN = 0.5 x 22 = 11 cm Width at the level of a line knee length delay point TO: KK1 = KK2 = 0,5 Wk = 0.5 x 23 = 11.5 cm 

Point K1 and B1, and K1 and N1 connect by straight lines. Points B1 and T31 direct connect. The deflection in the middle of the line К1Я1 equal to 0.5 cm Deflection in the middle of the line Б1Т31 equivalent to 0.5 - 0.7 cm stepper cut Line passes through the point H2, K2 and Я21. 

The deflection in the middle of the line К2Я21 equal to 0.5 cm 

On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 delay period, equal to 0,3Б2Я2.

Solution front tuck 1.5 - 2 cm Length Darts from waist line to hem 6 cm, it does not reach the chest at 5 - 7 cm 

pocket on the front half of the pants. The front end is from the waist line at a distance of 6 cm; the rear end is at a distance of 8 cm.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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