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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

The design of the coat


Measurement figures, see: 
SSH = 20,5; DS.p = 55,6; Dr = 63; 
SG = 50; SHS = 20,4; Op = 32,2; 
St = 44; Dt.C = 45,5; CDF.z = 21,4; 
SB = 52; Di = 105; DP = 36,1; 
SHG = 19,2; SHP = 15,5. 

Allowances for free customized fit, see: 
PG = 5,6; PS.Ave = 2.5; Lim.throats = 1,5; 
PT = 3,5; PD.t.s = 1; In.n = 95; 
Pb = 4,5; PD.t.p = 1,4.

The distribution of the measurements at SG sites, see: 
the width of the back of 20.4; 
the width of the shelves is 19.2; 
the width of the armhole - 50 - (20,4 + 19,2) = 10,4. 

Sleeve width, SROC = (Op.p)/2 = (32,2 + 9,5)/2 = 20,8 see
The distribution of the common stock of PG = 5.6 cm sections cm: 
the width of the backrest - 1; 
the width of the shelves is 0.5; 
the width of the openings was 4.1. 

Width plots with the total allowance in the drawing (Fig. 38) cm: 
back width Г10Г11 = RC + PN.with + Pshow = 20,4 + 1 + 1 = 22,4; 
width openings Г11Г4 = PDS + PN.PR + PN(side tuck) = 10,4 + 4,1 + 1,5 = 16; 
width shelves Г3Г4 = CG + PN.g + PN = 19,2 + 0,5 + 1 = 20,7. 

To build a tuxedo building a right angle with the vertex at the point A. 
the Level of the waist line is measured by the length of at = Dt.+ PD.t.C = 45,5 + 1 = 46,5 cm
The level of the chest is determined by the segment AG = VLOOKUP.z + 3 = 21,4 + 3 = 24,4 see 
the Level of convexity of the blades of AU = 0,3 Dt.s = 0.3 x 45,5 = 13.7 to see
the greatest convexity of the gluteal muscles is determined by the segment TB = 0,5 Dt.with a 3.5 x 45.5 - 3,5 = 19,3 cm 
Length of tails ready 105 cm, and with an allowance for a hem Days = Di + DD.t.with = 105 + 1,5 = 106,5 cm 
Up from point A on the vertical and right horizontal delay of 0.5 - 0.7 cm of a point (A0, A01).
The deflection of the middle line of the back at the waist line ТТ1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the hem НН1 = 3, see Allocating the midline of the back at the level of convexity of the blades УУ1' = 0.3 cm. the Middle line of the back is carried out through the points A01, Y1', T1, B1 and H1. The point of intersection of the middle line of the back, with the bust line G10. From the point G10 to the right lay: the width of the back Г10Г11 = 22.4 cm; the width of the openings Г11Г4 = 16 cm; the width of the shelves Г3Г4 = 20,7 cm
Through the point G3 hold vertical (line polutanata), which intersects with the horizontal from point A to point A1 with the horizontal from point T at the point T8. From the point T8 down the line а1Т8 lay 9 cm (point N4). Point And right horizontal delay period equal to the segment Г10Г11, and put a point. From the point A1 to the left lay a segment equal to segment Г3Г4, and put a point A2. Point and G11 and G4 and A2 connect in straight lines.
Width of the neck backless cut is determined by А01А1 = SSH/3 + PN.throats = 20,5/3 + 1,5 = 8,2 cm, Height neck backless A1A2 = А01А1/3 + PN = 8,2/3 + 1 = 3.7 cm. 
the height of the armhole of the backrest is determined by the cut Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 5,2 = 18 + 5,2 = 23,2 cm 
Deflection of the shoulder line is defined by line segments А2А20 = 0.6 cm and A2A'20 = 1 cm the Length of shoulder seam lay from point A'20 through the point P2, and 20П1 = SHP + PST + PN = 15,5 + 1 + 1 = 17,5 cm
To build a shelf build a corner suteki. While Г6Г7 = PS.PR = 2.5 cm; Г8Г81 = Г3Г4 0,05 + 0,5. From the point Г81 raise a perpendicular to a straight Г7Г81 and on crossing it with a horizontal line followed from point A1, put the point A3. The width of the neck aside from the point A3 to the left: А3А4 = А01А1 + 1 = 8,3 + 1 = 9,3 cm Balance point A41 is determined on the vertical line passing through the point A4 down to the waist line - point T4, and Т4А41 = Dt.p - 0,4 Nl + 1 = 55,6 - 0.4 x 20.5 cm + 1= cm 48,4
The height of the openings of the shelves is determined by the cut Г4П4 = 0,5 DP + 4,2 = 0.5 x 36 + 4,2 = 22,2 cm Length of the shoulder cut is determined by the cut А41П50 = SHP + PN = of 15.5 + 1 = 16.5 cm see the Bevel line of the shoulder cut П50П5 = 0.5 cm 
For the construction of the openings determine the position of a number of subsidiary points: 
point 1 - Г₁₁1 = SNR 0,25 = 0,25 x 14.5 = 3.6 cm; 
point Г41 - Г11Г41 = 0,5Г4Г11 + 1,5 = 0,5 x 15 + 1,5 = 9 cm; 
point 2 - Г₄2 = Г₁₁1 - 1,5; 
point P6 - Г4П6 = 5.5 cm. 
Deflection of middle line П6П5 equal to 0.7 - 1 cm. Cut 3 - 4 = 0,7...1 see 
the Line of openings is carried out through the points P1, P3, 1, Г41, 2, 4, P6 and P5.
Determine the position of the Darts on the shelf in the side seam, the front and side. To determine the position of the tucks in the side seam to find the point G20: Г10Г20 = 0,5Г10Г11. From the point of the G20 is carried out vertical to the intersection with the waist line at point T3. 
To determine the position of the front Darts cut Т4Т7 on the waist line divide in half (point T71). Through the point draw the T71 up to the point A41. Before lynnie breast do not reach 4.5 cm
The side tuck is determined on the vertical line lowered from the point Г41 to the intersection with the waist line at point T5. The amount of solutions tucks ∑ = (SG + PG) - (St + PT) = (50 + 5,6) - (44 + 3,5) = 8,1 see 
the sum of the solutions of Darts ∑to deduct the difference between the cut ТТ1 determining the deflection of the middle line of the back, and cut ГГ10 on the chest. Then ТТ1 - ГГ1 = 3 - 1 = 2 cm; 
∑(ТТ1 - ГГ10) = 8,1 - 2 = 6.1 cm is the sum of the three Darts on the shelf in the side seam, the front and side.
Solution front tuck on the waist line is 0.2 of the sum of the three Darts, i.e., to 0.2 x 6.1 = 1,22 = 1.2 cm; solution side tuck is 0.3 x 6.1 = 1,83 = 1.8 cm; solution tucks into the side seam - 0,5 x 6.1 = 3,05 = 3.1 cm 
To build a tuck in the armhole from point A3 up lay 2 cm (point П31). From the point П31 lay down 1.5 cm (point П32). Point П31 the G20 and connect a smooth line. Through the G20 and П32 also hold a smooth line and its continuation from the point П32 lay 1 cm (point P33). Side Г20П31 = Г20П33.
To determine the position of the lateral cut back to the waist line from point T3 to the left lay a 0.5 solution of the Darts into the side seam (point T2), t, E. Т3Т2 = 0.5 x 3 = 1.5 cm 
back Width on the hip line is determined by the cut Б1Б2 = Т1Т2 + 0,5 = 7,6 + 0,5 = 8,1 cm Side cut backless conducted through П31, G20, T2, and B2 to the intersection with the bottom line at the point H2. 
The shoulder cut of the back is moved upward from the point P1, for 2 cm (point P11). Point P11 and A2, connect a smooth line.
To build the fold line of the lapel from the point T8 lay-up cut Т8Л0 = 9 cm depending on the length of the lapel cut length Т8Л0 changes. To the left from point lay Л0 1 cm (point L). On the extension of the auxiliary lines to the right shoulder А41П50 lay cut А41з equal to the height of the collar stand minus 0.5 cm, i.e. А41з = 2,5 - 0,5 = 2 cm.
Points L and h connect by a straight line which intersects with the line of the neck at point F. Line LF determines the position of the bend of the lapel. On a straight line perpendicular to the fold line of the lapel lay the cut equal to the width of the lapel, which intersects with the extension of the line ФА6 right at the point L2. 
The width of the lapel is determined in accordance with a model or a fashion direction. Points L2 and L connect a smooth line. Line the outer edge of the lapel is carried out with the deflection in the middle of the straight Л2Л, equal to 0.7 cm 
From the point T3 to the right lay a 0.5 solution of the Darts into the side seam: Т3Т31 = 0.5 x 3 = 1.5 cm.
The point of the G20 and T31 connect with a straight line. A lateral cut is performed through the point P33, the G20 and T31. 
To build the bottom line of the bodice from the point H4 to the left horizontally lay 4 cm (point D5). On continuation of the line а2Т7 down from the point T7 postpone 2 cm (point T72). Point N5, T5 T72 and connect. 
The front tuck is carried out to the hem of the bodice and at the intersection of the dot T73.
To build the skirt line а2Т7 continue down to the intersection with the line of the hips at the point Б41. From the point Б41 left lay 1 cm (point B4). A few T73 and B4 draw down to the intersection with the horizontal from point N to point Н31. From the point B4 lay cut Б4Б3 = 0,5(SB + Pb) - 1,5 = 0,5(52 + 4,5) - 1,5 = 26,8 see
From the point H2 to the left horizontally lay 3 cm (point N32). The side cut of the skirt is carried out, seamlessly joining the dots T31 B3 and then straight to the point N32. From the point T31 to the continuation of the line Б3Т31 lay up 1 cm (point T32). From the point T73 lay down 1 cm (point Kzt74). The upper section of the skirt is carried out through points of Kzt74, T5 and T32. At the bottom point upward from the N32 lay 1 cm (point N3). On the bisector of the angle Н2Н31Б4 lay 4.5 cm (point N33). The seam of the skirt is carried out through points of Kzt74, B4, and N3 N33.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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