VEST FULL FIGURE

Vest full figure with protrusion of the abdomen are built on the principle of single-breasted vest with some additional constructions. The main dimensions of the shape to build a structure of the vest for a full body with the protrusion of the abdomen additionally determine the magnitude of the projection of the abdomen: Vzh = 0,4(St + K - SG) (K = 6.8 cm).

When you build a back deflection of the middle line of the back reduce, he is 1 - 1.5 cm While taking into account the options of physique shapes.

Side cut backless built on the vertical from point G5 (Fig. 27). The bottom line is Н12Н21 continue to the right and from point lay H21 1.2 cm (point N22). Point N22 and T3 connect by a straight line. Side cut backless conducted through G5, T3 and N22.

To construct a line of prosanos shelves pre-calculate the projection of the abdomen and this value is transferred line polutanata on the waist line, i.e. Т8Т81 = Eng. Through kzt81, and G3 is carried out straight until the intersection with the horizontal from point A1 to point A11. From the point of kzt81 down parallel to the vertical direction from point A1 draw to the intersection with the horizontal from point N to point H4. From H4 point down the line Т81Н4 lay 5.5 cm (point D5). To determine the position of the point A4 cut а11а2 divide in half. ie а11А4 = а11а2/2.

Through the point A4 is carried out, the vertical down to the intersection with the waist line at point T4. From the point T4 up vertically, lay the cut Т4А41 = Dt.p - SSH 0,4 + 0,5 + (Г3Т81 - Г3Т8), which determines the position of the highest point of the neck A41. 

To build hem single breasted waistcoat from the point H5 to the left horizontally lay 3 cm (point Н51). Point Н51 and N21 connect straight, continuing the line to the left from point lay H21 1.2 cm (point Н23). Point Н23 and T3 connect by a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line Н51Н23 is 1.2 cm

To build the solution tuck in the side pocket of point K1 of radius equal to the segment К1Т81, conduct an arc across the line, which is a continuation of the line side pockets К1К2 the left, at the intersection of the dot K52. Point-K52 down the chord of the arc delay period equal to the protrusion of the abdomen Т8Т81. Points K1 and K62 connect with a straight line. Line К1К52 К1К62 left and continue to the intersection with the side line of the cutoff points T32 and T33. Side tuck К1Т32 and К1Т33 call. From the point Н51 with a radius equal to the segment Н51Н23 hold down arc and its chord lay the cut Н23Н24 = Т32Т33.

Point Н24 Н51 and connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the straight Н24Н51 is 1.2 cm 

, the JACKETS ON the STOOP AND PERIGENITAL SHAPE 

Design vests for slouching and perigenital figure has a number of distinctive features in comparison with the design of the jackets on the standard figure. 

Long areas of openings depending on the posture may be different. At the stooped figure the length of the armholes on the back, while pereghibati less compared to the figure of the model. On the shelf, on the contrary, the length of the armhole have stooped figures less, and pereghibati more.

The posture of the figure, i.e. the position of the body, is determined by the formula OS = Dt.n - (0,4 SSH + 2,4) = Dt.with. 

In the back of a hunched figure on the position of the middle line of the back at the waist ТТ1 = 4.5 cm (Fig. 28); perigenital - ТТ1 = 2 cm (Fig. 29). 

Retraction of the neck backless: А0А01 = 0.3 ind + 0.5 - for round-shouldered shapes (see Fig. 28); А0А01 = 0 cm for pereghibati shape (see Fig. 29). 

The height of the armhole of the backrest Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 6,5 + 0,5 OS - for round-shouldered shapes (see Fig. 28); Г11П2 = DP 0,5 + 6,5 - 0,5 OS - for pereghibati shape (see Fig. 29).

The height of the armhole shelves: Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 3,5 - 0,5 OS - for round-shouldered shapes (see Fig. 28); Г4П4 = DP 0,5 + 3,5 + 0,5 OS - for pereghibati shape (see Fig. 29). 

All the rest of the building is carried out in the usual way.