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Home » Articles » Designing men's outerwear

The design of the pants figures with disabilities

 PANTS FULL FIGURE WITH PROTRUDING BELLY. The feature of constructing trousers for the fuller figure is to determine the protrusion of the abdomen and in accordance with this change of bow trousers.
 Still in the construction of trousers for the fuller figure with protruding abdomen and height of the seat of the pants increased in accordance with the protrusion of the abdomen. This, as shown by experience in the Studio on an individual garment manufacturer, has caused complaints among customers, which pointed to the inconvenience of operation of the pants, especially in the sitting position. Here the proposed design of the pants full figure with protruding abdomen, which takes into account the protrusion of the abdomen, but seat height is not increasing.This is achieved by reducing cut TB by the amount of protrusion of the abdomen Vzh and adding this value to the length of the bow when it was built. Experience has shown the positive results of the building design.
Allowance at the hip line Pb is distributed to the front and rear halves of the pants: front - 1/3Пб, to the rear - 2/3Пб.
The dimensional characteristics of the model shape used to build the design of men's pants, following, see:
SG = 56 Dt.with = 45 5 SHK = 27
SB = 59,3 DRC = 110,8 RP.n = 5
SN = 26 GT1 = 5,5 (see Fig. 1)
 note. Merc GT1 is measured horizontally from the vertical tangent to protruding points of the blades to the ruler applied horizontally to the greatest removing the waist.
Allowance for loose fit trousers to poluobhvat hips Pb = 3 cm.
Protrusion of the stomach Vzh Trouser is determined by the formula Vzh = 0,3(St + GT1 - SG) = 0,3(56 + 5,5 - 56) = 1,65 see

 the Front half. Pants length (Fig. 11) TN = 110,8 - RP.n = 110,8 - 5 = 105,8 see
The height of the seat of the trousers CHA = TB - Eng + 6 = 21 - 1,65 + 6 = 25,35 cm (21 cm is the length of the segment TB of the table. 1). TB = 21 - 1,65 = of 19.35 cm
Knee height pants BK = bn/2 + of 1.5.
Width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line Б1Б2 = 0,5 SB + 1/3Пб = 0.5 x 59,3 + 2 + 1 = 32,6 cm
Step width of the front halves of trousers at the level of the hip line Б2Б21 = 0,1(SB + Pb) = 0,1(59,3 + 3) = 6,2 see Б1Б21 = Б1Б2 + Б2Б21 = 32,6 + 6,2 = 38,8 see the position of the point B on the fold of the front halves of trousers is defined by segments B1B = ББ21 = 38,8/2 = 19,4 cm
Width of the front halves of the trousers-leg НН1 = НН2 =0,5 SN = 0.5 x 26 = 13 cm Width of the front halves of trousers at the level of a line knee length KK1 = KK2 = 0,5 Wk =0.5 x 27 = 13.5 cm Point H1 and K1, H2 and K2 connect. Points K1 and KZ, respectively, with the connecting points B1 and Б21. At the intersection of these lines with the line of the buttocks dots H1 and Я21. Width of the front halves of the pants on the line of the buttocks Я1Я2 = Б1Б2.
To construct a line of the bow from point B2 is carried up the vertical to the intersection with the horizontal line passing through the point T, at the point T2. Points B2 and H2 connect the auxiliary straight line. On the bisector of the angle Б2Я2Я21 lay cut Я₂1 = 0,3Б2Я2. Up from point T2 on the continuation of the line Т2Б2 postpone the amount of protrusion of the abdomen, i.e. Т2Т21 = Eng = 1,65 cm to the Right from the point of T21 horizontally lay the cut Т21Т22 = 0,5 Vzh = 0.5 x 1.65 = 0.8 cm Line of bow hold a smooth line through the points T22, B2, 1 and Я21.Width of the front halves of trousers on the waist line Т22Т1 = 0.5 St + solution folds + 1 = 0.5 x 56 + 2 + 1 = 31 cm (1 cm is the magnitude of the displacement of the side seams of the front halves to the rear halves).
Up from point T1 vertical lay cut Т1Т11 = 0.5 cm Point T11 and B1 connect the auxiliary straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line Т11Б1 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Point T11 and B1 connect a smooth line. On the upper cut of the pants point T21, T and T11 connect with a straight line. From the point T to the left lay the solution of folds equal to 2 cm Depth 3.5 cm folds For final clearance and side-stepping slices the front half in the middle of the lines Я1К1 and Я21К2 make the deflection equal to 0.3 cm. Deflection bottom line from the point N up is 1 see

 the Back half of the pants. The side and step sections of the rear halves of the trousers-leg is determined by the segments Н1Н3 = Н2Н4 = 2 cm lateral Position and stepper sections of the rear halves of the pants on the line of the knee К1К3 = К2К4 = 2 cm.
To the left of the point B1 on the horizontal lay cut Б1Б3 = 0,1(SB + Pb) - 1 = 0,1(59,3 + 3) - 1 = 5,2 see
To determine the width of the rear halves of the pants on the hip line from point B2 up vertically, lay the cut Б2Б20 = 0,1 SB - 1,5 = 0.1 x 59,3 - 1,5 = 4.4 cm.
From point B3 of radius equal to the calculated width of the rear half at the hip line, make the notch in the horizontal from the point of the G20; БЗБ5 = (SB + Pb + PN) - Б1Б2 = (59,3 + 3 + 3) - 32,6 = 32,7 see To determine the width of the rear halves of the trousers on the buttocks line from point Я3 down the line Я3К3 lay cut Я3Я30 = Б2Б20. From the point Я30 radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the pants to the hips, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point I, i.e. Я30Я4 = Б3Б5. Through the points H4 and B5 have been holding up a line that intersects with the line of the hips at the point B4, and with the waist at the point T4.From the point T4 up on the continuation of the direct Я4Т4 postpone the balance of the pants Т4Т5 = Б4Б5. From the point H4 to the horizontal to the right lay the width of the step back half Я4Я5 = 0.25 and SB = 0.25 x 59,3 = 14,8 cm On the bisector of the angle Б4Я4Я5 lay cut Я₄2 = 1.5 cm.
From the point AM5 down vertical lay cut Я5Я6 = 2 see the Line of seats is carried out through the point T5, B5, B4, 2 and AM6. The point K4 and AM6 connect with a straight line. The deflection in the middle of the line К4Я6 is 1.2 - 1.5 cm.
To determine the width of the upper edge of the rear half of the point T5 with a radius equal to the width of the rear halves of the waist, make a notch on the horizontal passing through the point T11, while Т5Т3 = 0.5 St + 3 + Lim = 0.5 x 56 + 3 + 2 = 33 cm (3 cm - solution back tuck). Points T3 and B3 connect by a straight line. The deflection of the line in the middle Т3Б3 equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm Deflection bottom line from the point N down to 1, see
 Pockets build in the same way as conventional pants. The upper section of the rear halves of the pants is made slightly convex lines from the top of the back Darts to points T3 and T5.



Category: Designing men's outerwear | Added by: 18.10.2017
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