Depending on the design and requirements of the cutter in outerwear use different strips to hide some defects of the figure of the customer and to make the product a specific shape. Covers are: upper shoulder, chest, back shoulder and podomatic. In the manufacture of products for individual orders lining made from two layers of fabric or nonwoven material (nonwoven fabric, proklamelin), gauze, between which lay the wadding or batting.
In the mass production of pads made from polyurethane foam (foam rubber), giving it by means of hot extrusion on all edges of the desired thickness and shape.
Top shoulder pads. In the utility templates cut out two pieces of side fabric. Between them lay a layer of cotton batting or thick depending on design. The thickness of the wool is reduced and eroding to the oval cross-section linings. Wasteheat pads on the sanding machine to the inside of the lines parallel to the edge of the oval, with the gasket held in a flexed position. The distance between lines of 0.5 - 0.8 cm and Then the pad on the Ironing Board or on a special press clipping newly created shape (Fig. 61, a, b).
In products from fine fabrics on the front side of the back possible the laying of pipes lines from wystawiania the top of the shoulder pads. In this case the shoulder pads on the upper layer of the back side is covered with an additional layer of fabric or non-woven material. Parts hold together hand stitching or machine stitching at a distance of 0.5 - 0.7 cm from the inner cut 3 - 5 cm from the shoulder seam.
Top shoulder pads for jacket coat Raglan. The shoulder pad consists of two parts (upper and lower), cut out side fabric. The inner slices, grind off the patch seam width of 1 cm (Fig. 61,). Between sacanime details are laid a layer of cotton or batting; from the centre to the side of the oval slices of a thickness of cotton layer negated. Shoulder pads mysterybut on the inner side of the parallel lines with distance between them of 0.6 - 0.8 cm and Then the shoulder pads iron iron or on a special press, giving them the necessary form.
Rear shoulder pads. Between parts cut from the gauze in the shape of the contour of the armhole of the back, lay the cotton batting or thick depending on the convexity of the blades. A thicker layer of cotton wool are laid on the armhole, to the inner shear layer of wool sodag on.no. The pad wasteheat manual stitch length of 1.5 - 2 cm, puncturing the pads through with the distance between lines 1.5 - 2 cm (Fig. 61, g). Wystawianie can be done on emergency vehicles with zigzag stitching.
Podomatic. Length of podomatic depends on the length of the armhole. Details for podomatic cut out two layers of gauze in an oblique direction with a width of 5 - 6 cm; then between layers of gauze lay the wool evenly. Lash manual slanted stitches, padding stitches in shared direction. Stitch length 1 - 1.5 cm, the distance between lines 1.5 cm Quilting podomatic on emergency vehicles with zigzag stitching.
Podomatic can be cut also from the piercing of batting width-side lifts 4 - 5 cm in the shape of the top part of the sleeves from the elbow to the front of the roll (Fig. 61, d).
|