Models of women's winter coats are very diverse (Fig. 98). Winter coats must be light and yet warm. By design, they differ from the light coats that when you build the product drawing give additional allowance for insulation gasket (3 - 5 cm).
The technological processing sequence of the top winter coats the same as demi (see Chapter 1). Addition is the handling of the insulating strip and connecting it with the product, processing of various fur collars and connecting them with the lower collars, processing fur cuffs and connecting them with hoses, etc.
As for insulating gaskets use a variety of materials: wool (cotton, wool and synthetic), batting (cotton, wool and wool blends), fur (artificial and natural), eiderdown and foam. Methods of processing strips depend on the type of used insulation material.
Insulated strip of wool. Wool, cotton, or wool must have certain properties: to be pure, light, fluffy, crumbly and odorless.
Processing of insulating pads includes the operation of odkrywania parts of the gauze, laying out wool, cotton wystawiania strip and trim parts cut on the patterns. For each major product parts (shelves, back and sleeves) cut out two layers of gauze with an allowance in length and width relative to the main parts 4-5 cm seam allowance necessary for the shrinkage of the gauze during wystawiania strip. Detail backless cut out one piece, with no middle seam.On the table lay a single layer of gauze, and on it lay a layer of cotton wool, and at the top of the shelves and the back layer must be thicker than two times than at the bottom.
In the individual production orders of different thickness of cotton layer, you can hide some of the shortcomings of the human figure: different shoulders, sunken chest, protruding blades. For better laying out of the wool and to identify gaps or bulges use a special table with a glass surface and illumin. Flooring wool close second layer of gauze, with its tension and bonding manual straight stitch length 4 - 5 cm 3 - 5 cm from the slices.Insulation strip the shelves and backless wasteheat hand stitches on a sanding truck and the special multi-needle machine M-12.
In the learning process using the manual method of wystawiania. The first 5 to 6 horizontal lines lay parallel to the line of the bottom with the distance between the lines 4 - 5 see These lines keep the cotton layer from moving. Then strip wasteheat equity lines from the middle parts manual end-to-end stitch length of 2.5 - 3 cm; after every 5 - 6 stitches the stitch fix. The distance between the lines - 4 - 5 cm, distance from the slices to line a 1.5 - 2 cm.
Wystawianie insulation strip for sanding machine perform with the distance between the lines 5 - 6 cm according the rules described for manual method. Machine stitch when wystawianie must be the most rare. Quilted items are cut on the patterns, on shelves cut out of the top of the tuck, and then connect them manually stitches the slices
butt or sew on machine bridging or patch seam width 0.7 - 0.8 cm, to the ends of the tuck seam is negated. Tuck rautureau or priorivet.
In the treatment is often used wool batting, which has a number of advantages: smooth surface, fluffy, elasticity, lightness, etc.
of an Insulation strip of the batting. The details of the shelves and backless cut out in one or two layers. One layer runs from the top to the bottom, and the second from the top of the product to the hips. The upper and lower layers of batting stacked fleece inside and wasteheat them for sanding or special machine M-12. Wystawianie perform parallel lines with distance between them 10 - 12 cm.
If the insulated layer of batting poorly connected with gauze, the fleece enclose the gauze and wasteheat batting along with it the equity lines with distance between them of 7 - 8 cm When connecting this strip with the product side of batting covered with gauze, should be placed in the side parts of the main fabric. In products with pricechannel on the bottom padded with good quality wadding insulation gasket handle without gauze.