Depending on the properties of the tissues of the shelves in the jackets is lightweight to maintain their form, it is recommended to duplicate an adhesive strip (Fig. 69). Adhesive strip connects with shelves, presses, or iron. After duplication on the shelves treated with Darts, Princess seams and pockets. In the shelves connected with nechaevym side strips (prior to connection), based on cross-sections of the neck, shoulder and arm openings lay cotton Podkayne or cut to the weft yarn strip width 2-2. 5 cm (Fig. 70).Strip paving along sections at a distance from them, equal to 0.3 - 0.5 cm, and fix manually the parallel lines of straight stitches with a length of 2 - 3 cm or off highway.
Top Darts in the jackets processed as described in Chapter 1, p 6.
Shelves with front and side tucks from the waist line is treated as described above (see Chapter 1, p 6). To obtain a tighter fit of the jacket in the waist area and to facilitate the wet-heat treatment shelves design with a detachable side parts.
To handle front tuck shelf is folded face inward, cuts call and tuck grind, from the line side pockets, arranged horizontally. The width of the seam on the waist line equal to 0.7 - 0.8 cm From the waist line seam and narrow nullify the higher end of the cut pockets 1 - 1.5 cm On the left shelf tuck grind the top towards the side pocket. For the best reputazione under the upper end of the tuck while grinding enclose a strip of cotton fabric. Then tuck rautureau until snug stitches.The grub manual butt connect pocket slanted stitches with a length of 1.5-2 cm, without tightening the thread.
For connecting the cutting side of the shelves with its main parts stack, right sides inside, equalizing sections, and smatyvay their hand straight stitches with a length of 1.5 - 2 cm from the cutting side, retreating from the slices of 0.8 - 0.9 cm details Then sew seam 1 cm width from the cutting side. Thread smachivaniya removed, shelf lay out the side cut to a running, suture moisturize and rautureau.
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