The HUMAN FIGURE AND ITS PROPORTIONS 

fashion designer is like a sculptor creates three-dimensional forms from various materials (fabric, knitwear, fur, leather, etc.). But no matter what the garments are created, they are closely associated with man, with his body type. So the artist and a designer needs to know very well the human figure, form and proportion of its individual parts, i.e. to be knowledgeable in the field of plastic anatomy. 
Summarized below are the basic information about the structure of the human figure and its proportions.
The human body is symmetrical. If you mentally draw a vertical plane along the line of the spine, you get two equal parts. However, there is, perhaps, not a single person, which would not be departures from symmetry. With age, they become particularly noticeable. The most frequent these types of asymmetry, such as different height of shoulders, uneven breast size, different in shape and volume of the thigh. 
Support of the body is the skeleton; it determines the shape of the body and its size. To attached skeletal muscles; the muscles along with the skeleton form the external contour of the body and system of bodies in motion.
The spinal column consists of 33 - 34 vertebrae; seven of them vertebrae - cervical. The seventh cervical vertebra is easily detectable, if you tilt your head face down, so it is called acting. 

The proportions of the human body 

  the Ratio of values of different human body parts between themselves and to the whole figure are called proportions.
When studying the proportions of the human body in classical sculpture was found to have no significant differences between these standards of beauty and proportionally folded people of our time. People can be tall or short, thin or full and at the same time to have a proportional physique, unless, of course, there is a pronounced disproportion in the figure.
All variety of physique of people cannot be defined only as beautiful or ugly. Each time, when a specific figure, the designer needs to visually identify what's most significant deviation from the proportions available in this case, and try to display them in the schematic construction of the figure, in the contour the contours of the face and profile. 
Even in ancient times people were interested in the proportions of the human body and tried to establish patterns in the relationships of its individual parts. In art were a variety of canons which had its modules. 
  Canon is called regularity in the proportions of the human body taken for the perfect and Express the simplest ratio of numbers. In the broadest sense of the word Canon is any system of explicit rules and regulations, existing or existing in the field of fine arts. Unit of measures, taken for the construction of a Canon is called a module. As a module in various canons took the dimensions of the various parts of the body: the length of the middle finger, length of foot, hand, head.So, the Egyptians of the unit took the length of the middle finger (the height of the whole figure this length is placed 19 times). Module the so-called Canon of artists is the head (height of the whole figure fits 7.5 times).
It is established that the height of the head - value is quite constant, equal to an average of 22 cm the Deviations are not more than 1 cm downward and 2 cm upwards. 
To construct the human figure in the development of the sketches of the costume is the most convenient to use a Canon in which the unit of measure is the height of the head (crown to chin), stacked along the height of the whole figure 8 again (Fig. 5). 

Proportional division of the figures vertically. Based on the fact that the height of the head is constant, determine the growth of women in cm: 

the High growth........... 22 X 8 = 176
Average " ............ 22 X 7.5= 165 
Low " ............. 22 X 7 = 154 

the tip of the middle finger lowered his hands the man of average growth has occurred in the middle of the thigh, the person of low growth is somewhat lower, and high growth - slightly above mid-thigh.
If the original make a woman's figure is tall, it can be visually separated into the following sections (see Fig. 5): 

I . . . . . . . .Head 
II . . . . . . .From the chin to the chest 
III . . . . . . From the chest to the navel 
IV ........... From navel to pubic crossing
V ............ From pubic crossing mid-thigh 
VI ........... From mid-thigh to the bottom of the knee 
VII ......... From the bottom of the knees to mid-calf 
VIII ........ From mid-calf to the base of the foot (soles) 

In connection with the fact that women often wear high heeled shoes, visually enhances the growth, the last, the eighth; the division is given with regard to the height of heel is 4 cm
The centre figure of a woman of average height falls on the pubic symphysis fusion (pubic crossing). Than people taller, the lower down the center of the figure. In addition, its shape the female figure of normal stature visually divided to the upper part from the crown of the head to the waist line and bottom - from the waist to the sole of the foot. These parts are interconnected in a ratio smaller to a larger value (vertical line I in Fig. 6). Both of these parts in turn are divided into (Vertikal II): 1 - from the crown of the head to the base of the neck; 2, from the base of the neck to the waist line;3 - from the waist to a-line knee-length; 4 - line knee-length to the base of the foot.
For more precise linking of the proportions of individual parts of the clothes with natural proportions of the figure, to achieve a more harmonious proportionality, there are additional divisions of figures (vertical line III): 1 - head; 2 - neck length; 3 - from the base of the neck to the breast line (the line passing through the most protruding points of chest); 4 - from the chest line to the waist line; 5 - from waist line to the hip line (the line passing through the most protruding points of the buttocks); 6 - from the hip line to the top of the knees; 7 - from knees to soles.The distance between the lines the base of the neck and the upper point of articulation of the arms with the shoulder line determines the height of the shoulders. This value characterizes the degree of incline of the shoulders.
  The division head. Head is divided into four parts (classic ratio): from the crown to the hairline, from hairline to nose, from nose to the base of the nose, from the base of the nose to the chin. Each part is equal to the length of the nose. 
  Articulation hands. Arm length is divided into three parts (vertical IV): 1 - join hands with the line of the shoulder to the elbow; 2, from the elbow to the beginning of the brush; 3 - from the beginning of the brush to the tip of the middle finger. While leg 1 - arm shoulder is equal to two brushes of the hand, segment 2 - forearm - equal to half the brush and cut a 3 - brush is equal to the length of the front of the head men and a few less front part of the head of the woman. 
Arm length from the armpit to the tip of the middle finger equal to three heights of head. 
  Articulation of the feet. The foot is divided into three parts: thigh length equal to the length of two altitudes of the head, lower leg and foot are equal in length to the sum of the length of the thigh. 
  Proportional division of the figures horizontally. Horizontally"or across the width of separate parts of the figure are also defined between them. For each of these parts is characterized by significant size having especially great value when you execute the figure drawing and the determination of the proportions in the clothes in the modeling process. On the vertical line V (see Fig. 6) the horizontal segments, which correspond to: 1 - the widest part of the head; 2 - neck width at its base; 3 - width apart; 4 - width of the shape on the chest; 5 - width at the waist line; 6 - width at the hip line; 7 - the minimum width of the knees;8 - the widest part of the calf and 9 the narrowest part of the calf.
Information about human figure proportions are the basis for constructing figures-model that should be followed when modeling to identify various abnormalities in shape, occurring in practical work. 

Constructive belt 

of Modern clothing is diverse the range, its forms and structures defined by the direction of fashion, purpose clothing and other factors. For clothing characteristic of one or another degree fit the figure in different parts (Fig. 7). Therefore, when modeling we have to deal with the so-called reference, orconstructive zones of the body are referred to depending on their location in the figure (Fig. 8). 

  Head belt (1) is the basis for the creation of hats, serving as a Supplement to suit various purposes. Some types of clothing are created piece by piece covering the head, with a hood, helmet, hood. 
  Cervical zone (2) is the base of the neck and taken into account when designing collars and neckline of the garment.
The shape and dimensions of the neck can be very different. With the help of different kinds of collars, the cut of the neck or the neck ornaments can visually shorten or lengthen, to make it less thin or thick, as well as change its shape. 
  Shoulder belt (3) determines the width and shape of the clothes to fit the shape of shoulders: narrow or wide, sloping or upright, deployed back or projecting forward (the shoulder joints). In addition, the shoulder girdle is of great importance in determining the equilibrium (balance) clothes. 
  Axillary belt (4) located at the level of the armpits. In the front it passes over the convexity of the chest, behind the shoulder blades. 
  Axillary-brachial (5) belt connects the armpit with a shoulder joint and defines the shape of the armhole. 
  Chest belt (6) passes through the front most protruding point of the breast and determines the location of the upper ends of the tuck, located on shoulder and side sections and from the armhole. The size of the pectoral girdle, the chest and back affect the nature of the design of the bodice and its volume. 
Belt the waist line (7) passes through the most depressed point of the torso, defines the degree of volume, product width at the waist line and is the main place of articulation of the figure horizontally. It takes into account when designing skirts, pants, aprons, etc. 
  Main hip belt (8) identify the widest part of the female torso. The amount of clothing should be not less than the value of this belt, which affects the product design, the nature of folds, pleats, draping and other design features. The other two hip belt located between the belt-line of the waist and hip basic and taken into account when designing the pants, skirts, blouses, jackets, sweaters, etc. 
Belt hands are arranged parallel to one another from the armpit to the wrist. These include belt: 
shoulder (9) - from the armpit to the elbow; 
elbow (10) in the place of articulation of the shoulder hand and forearm; and 
an elbow rest (11) - from the elbow to the wrist; 
carpal (12) - place of articulation of the forearm with the hand. 
The dimensions of the parts of the hand often determine the width and length of the sleeves. The elbow belt defines the location of elbow Darts on the sleeves. 
Belt legs arranged parallel to one another from the pubic crossing to the place of articulation of the tibia with the foot. These include the waist: 
hip (13) - from the pubic crossing to the patella; 
the knee (14) in the place of articulation of the thigh leg and lower leg; 
golenye (15) - from the lower border of the kneecap to the foot (the major ones are hamstring, calf and nastupny). 
Belt feet, determine the length and width of the respective products (pants, skirts, etc.). 
To be able to correctly determine the position of the anchor belt on the figure is equally important as the drawing design of the product design method and to design forms using layout. In the practice of design (support) zone are identified by fixing pins narrow ribbon on a skintight body knitted underwear.

TYPES OF FEMALE FIGURES ON THE GROWTH, SIZE AND BODY TYPE

When modeling clothes on the initial signs of a human figure are the growth, size and body type. It is customary to divide all people and accordingly, garments of five to Rostov. In table. 1 shows the division of women's clothing on growth depending on the growth figures. 

  The sizes of the clothes determine the value of poluobhvat on the chest, expressed in cm Garment industry produces clothes for women 44 - 58 size with interdimensional difference equal to 2 cm 
  Body type is characterized by the posture of the figure and fullness. Depending on torso posture might be normal, stooped , or pereghibati.
  The completeness of the figure is determined by three main measurements: poluobhvat of the chest, waist and hips. For female figures adopted three completeness: small, medium and large. In table. 2 shows a measurement in cm of the female figure of the same size (48), but different widths..

Completeness is largely due to the age of the person: small and medium body characteristic for women of young and middle ages, a great fullness for older women. Small fullness for older women is uncommon; medium and large completeness peculiar to women of any age. The distribution of age at polecam types and sizes are given in table. 3. 

SOME TYPES OF FEMALE FIGURES WRONG BODY

Designer clothes need not only theoretically aware of the existence of the different reference zones and the locations of them on the figure, and a very good understanding of the variety of configurations of these zones depending on features of a Constitution. Learn to identify the points through which passes a particular reference zone on the figure proportions, not difficult. Much harder to correctly find the location of the lines of structural belts in the figure, having different deviations from the norm - significantly pronounced deformation of its separate parts or sections.Some examples of the most frequently encountered in the practice of the deviations shown in Fig. 9.

1. The convex diaphragm from the abdomen and lower back prohibita with cool rounded buttocks at the top. In this case, the reference zone of the waist line is not horizontal, i.e. not parallel to the plane of the floor (as in the figure of the normal structure) and with a significant slope to the hollow of waist. The hip belt is almost parallel to the floor plane (Fig. 9, a). 
2. The figure bowed low flat buttocks and pinched spherical belly. The direction of belt lines the waist and hips in this case would be the reciprocal of the first (Fig. 9, b).
3. Hips, protruding at different levels. With this structure of the hip parts of the contours of this area of the torso, usually have different slope - gentle on one side and steep on the other. Here constructive waist the waist line is slightly inclined in the direction of the sloping sides. The line of the hip belt is a great angle and in the same direction (Fig. 9).
4. Uneven thickness (Fig. 9,g). A large amount of top hands as a rule, leads to distortion of the shape of the shoulders. Shoulder line is visually expanded through its refraction at the point of articulation with the arm shoulder. The belt arm shoulder will be located: I - oelstrom area hand inclined to the armpit; II - on the thinnest part of the arm shoulder horizontally; III - in the middle between I and II zones with a slight slope.
5. Defects neck: short, long, thin, wiry. Often there are such neck, in which it is difficult to determine the line of its Foundation: muscular, with sharp pokatov to the shoulders (Fig. 9, d), the neck, thin at the base and widening towards the head (Fig. 9, e), etc. 
Important modeling problem, especially solo, is to correctly identify all defects of a human figure and be able to correct them with the help of designed clothing.