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Home » Articles » Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing

Finish

Types of modern finishes 

 Fabric. The fabric is widely used as decoration in a light dress and outerwear, although in the last few less. Using cloth as a finishing element, it is possible to distinguish three communication lines of one tissue with another.

 The first line of communication: the fabric of the same texture are combined according to the principle of different colors. Appendix 6 (figure right) are shown sporting the suit fabric blue with white trim of the same fabric. Next-summer dress of twill or linen; the bottom of the dress is trimmed with wide bands of fabric of the same texture, but different color. Same here - a plain cotton dress, trimmed with fabric with a colorful chintz. 
 Second communication line: fabric of different textures combined in the same color. This combination of tissues is necessary to consider that the texture of each tissue combined together should identify, emphasize the external characteristics of another. For example, the beauty of the texture of the thick matte crepes, Voiles, twills stronger than revealed by the combination of them with a shiny fabric such as satin, crepe satin, lacquer. Deep color velvet, combined with a matte fabric - taffeta, moire, REP increases and wins. Boucle advantageously combined with shiny black lacquer or smooth fur.

Examples of such monochromatic combinations of different textures is shown in Fig. 97 and 140: dress made from dense, matte-crepe trimmed with shiny fabric (satin, crepe satin, lacquer); dress of lace fabric white color fabric decorated with shiny white color. It should also be noted that when the monochrome combination can happen shade variations. For example, a combination of two fabrics in black color with different textures or different shades can lead to the fact that one of the connecting tissues seem to be faded, dull and rusty, will take the bronze shade.
Sometimes a cotton or linen dress with silk trim, thinking that will enrich them; the result is the opposite: silk richness to its texture contrasts with the main fabric, making the product only is destitute. 
 Third communication line: fabrics of different textures, combined in various colors (according to the principle of harmony or contrast). The most common color for finishing both winter and especially summer dresses (casual, business and dressy-output) is white. White color fits almost everything, it gives the dress neatness and freshness. In Fig. 141 depicts a modest business dress, collar, placket, cuffs, and waist in white. Next (Fig. 142) dressy black dress, trimmed with white fabric. This contrasting combination of black with white is very expressive and impressive.Finish white fabric applicable to dyed fabrics and fabrics with floral patterns, with a pattern of stripes and cells, etc. Applying a particular finishing, it is necessary to consider not only the properties of the materials, their visual quality and consistency in color.
For coats, as the finish is recommended as a dyed cloth and a pattern. Side coats, and sometimes the whole lining of smooth or checkered fabrics give the original coat, elegant look. 
From other tissue to perform its individual parts: the collar, sides, cuffs, pockets, flaps (Fig. 143). This should avoid the overload of product finishes. 
 Embroidery. Finish can be a means of expressing the main ideas of the composition.
This is especially true for composite solutions, which are based on the motives and forms of popular clothes using embroidery. 
Embroidery can be handmade and machine made thread (cotton, wool, silk), and beads, bugle beads, pearls and sequins. Apply it in a cotton dress, top and clothing.

Examples of the application of embroidery on folk motifs given in Fig. 144. A wide decorative band (Fig. 144,a) represents the main line of the blouse. This line is subject to the fabric, the color and design of the model. 
An interesting solution of this plan is shown in Fig. 144 b. Two spots of colour formed by the embroidery located on the shoulders "poliks", organically linked to the design model.
Embroidery is widely used in elegant dresses. Patterns can be of various types: geometric, thematic, vegetative ornament, pointless. Sometimes embroider evenly the entire bodice or the whole dress; sometimes the embroidery concentrate on any one part of the bodice or skirt. So, beads, bugle beads and pearls, used mainly for decoration of elegant evening dresses and ensembles, embroider or line yoke (the element of decoration is concentrated in one place), or insert (embroidery is of a uniform character; Annex 7, figure top left).

As a decoration you can use machine embroidery metallic thread, synthetic straw, and finish casting a cord in the car, "Schubert". Embroidery can mimic the lace and knit. Interestingly applied embroidery located on the bottom summer dresses, and ruffles extended sleeve (Annex 7, figure left). Here (figure on the right) showing a set of velvet embroidered with gold sequins at the neckline, the armholes, the slits and hem. In Fig. 145,shows the little fancy dress with embroidery, located at the top.Shiny sequins contrast well with the matte fabric (a combination of black fabric with black sequins).
 Accessories. Material for the manufacture of buttons serve as galalith, acrylic, bone, horn, mother of pearl, porcelain, wood, glass, metal, leather, cord, soutache, fabric, etc. 
According to their appearance, buttons are very diverse: this refers to their size, color, shape (round, oval, square, etc.), method of their connection with clothes. All of this should be taken into account when solving the composition model (Fig. 146), especially that the buttons often play an important role and are a major trim.
In the history of fashion are observed by periodic entrainment with different combinations of material, color and texture buttons with fabric. For example, the fashion was shiny buttons, made of metal, wood or bone, under the nacre, or pearl, haberdashery from a cord, etc. Changing the shape of buttons, their size, method of connection with the fabric. 
Buttons serve as a clasp or fix the details. Purely decorative use of buttons is very rare. At the beginning of the twentieth century, buttons were used in extremely large quantities and mainly for decorative purposes (front closure often at that time was not provided (Fig. 147). In the early 50-ies of XX century was widely spread model coat with lots of small buttons placed close to each other and arranged in one or two rows inside a counter-pleat in the middle back.
You should not use buttons through fastener, which has no loops and fastens with buttons or hooks. In modern devices exceptions to this rule are very few. 
In the composition, where the trim used lace, fabric, brocade, embroidery etc., clasp, in case of need to be modest, not distracting, not breaking the overall design of the costume. Therefore, it is better to apply discreet or buttons covered in the same fabric as the product.
Besides, it's not always appropriate to use flashy buttons in those cases when the model was particularly acute.
In some composite solutions buttons not accept visible participation, although they perform a functional role (their mask then under straps, hidden zipper supat). 
Note also the following. 
Heavy buttons pulled the light fabric, causing the product to deform. 
Buttons should be neither excessively large nor excessively small, should always be taken into account, the ratio between their size and composition model.
In the selection of buttons to a particular fabric, you should take into account the interaction of colors. Casual, ill-considered use of buttons reduces the artistic quality of the product. For example, to coat or suit grey single buttons also gray. They were too light, causing the fabric takes not her usual color is a dull, expressionless. Applying to the fabric buttons of other colors, choose those that are more suitable to the fabric looked more advantageous.
The black fabric due to incorrectly matched the black buttons may make it unprofitable to shade: to become reddish, sometimes faded or faded. When connecting the three black elements (fabrics, furs and buttons) even more difficult to pick up the latest texture and color.

The location of the buttons on the clothes is determined by fashion and depends on the size of the product, what parts are used, what is the size and shape of the latter. Sometimes the buttons are arranged in a single row (single-breasted closure, see Fig. 147, a, b), sometimes in two (double-breasted, Fig. 148, a, b).
In the products of adjacent forms one of the buttons (whatever their number) have to be on the waist line, highlight the last and on the chest (see Fig. 147,b and Fig. 148,b). Otherwise the product loses its form: the waist line is insufficiently identified, the Board depart, swell. As for products poluprilegayuschy and direct forms, there finding one of the buttons at the waist is optional (Fig. 148, a).
If double-breasted closure, asymmetrical (with respect to the Central axis of the figure) spaced buttons, the product may seem skewed, offset to one side (see Fig. 148,). In Fig. 149 shows a model with buttons made of pearls, making the dress more elegant. 
Considering buttons as trim elements, should pay attention to the nature of loops. When designing compositions with the use of buttons simultaneously solved form of a loop.

The hinges are equity, transverse, and oblique; serged, obracanie made in the strap. There are also loops for hanging from cord or rolica (Fig. 150, a), in the form of hinged opening (Fig. 150,b), the type of hussar sash - cord or braid haberdashery (Fig. 150,). PATA is made from fabric, coordinating the color with the color of the basic product. 
 Buckle. Various forms of buckles are most often used on various widths of belts, and the opening and pull tabs. Sometimes they are used as fasteners (Fig. 150, g), or used for tightening the bottom of the sleeves, and sometimes have ornamental value.
 Hooks. Decorative hooks - plastic and metal - is used as trim (Fig. 150, d). 
Simple hooks and buttons of various sizes are mainly used in the hidden arches. 
 Lightning. Braid zipper serves as a clasp. Sometimes it is both a finish (see Annex 6, right). Use lightning mainly in sports, industrial and clothing lines zipper pockets (Welt, false), bodice, sleeves, trousers, skirts, overalls, hoods.
The zipper used in the finishing, can be metal or plastic. Its color contrasts with or harmonizes with the main color of the product. Zipper lock can be supplemented with key chain, monogram, or other similar decoration. 
Machine stitching, as mentioned above, seem to emphasize, reinforce the lines, seams, reliefs products, edge details and inverted pleats, making them more noticeable.

Finishing machinery line is used as in a light dress, and outerwear (Fig. 151, a). The difference is that in the first case, the thread that pave the stitching can be same or contrasting color of fabric, and in the second there is only one option - thread in the color of the fabric. So, if the dress is blue color, the finishing line could be gray, white, red or yellow.
Machine lines are different. Sided stitching when the seam allowance for the line grinding soutiiwest on one side and secured with machine stitch in one, two or three rows, shown in Fig. 151 b. Widely used stitching around the edge of the hem, waistband, side, collar, cuffs (Fig. 151, C). The bilateral line (Fig. 151, g) seam allowance rautureau on two sides and fixed on both sides of the lines (width between 1 - 2 cm). Frequently used decorative stitching for needle machine stitching and crewel.
Line could be notched (corners, half-ovals, squares). In this case, it often is the main element of the composition. Quilting can fill all product: sports jacket, coat, skirt; sometimes a line located at the bottom of the garment, the yoke, hood, etc.
It is not recommended to use machine stitching as a finishing on fabrics with a pronounced textile pattern - diagonal, rhombus, oval, the scar (in these cases, the line ceases to be uniform; inexpressive, as if she sometimes fails), and on fabrics with a pattern (stripes, cells, diagonal, polka dots). The color of thread or silk, suitable one part of the fabric pattern, absolutely not linked with the other.
It is necessary to emphasize the embossed line. It is more visible and prominent, like scribble fabric with padding (batting, fable, cord, etc.). Embossed stitching, usually done in the form of a pattern; it strips, angles, half-ovals, leaves, swirls, etc. 
Finish stitching looks beautiful on light fabrics. Apply finishing and embossed lines on the fabric very dark colors should not be, because it almost will not be visible. Moreover, the impression Semenov tissue.
Applying the finishing stitches should keep the same character of their execution in the model. Otherwise the inevitable unfortunate composite solutions (Fig. 152, a). It is also necessary to avoid overloading your model with decorative stitching (Fig. 152, b). 
 Knit. Knit can be fabricated collar, cuffs, edge of hood, small parts, upper and sportswear, yoke with collar, box, strap for clasps, flaps, pockets (Fig. 153). For finishing coats and suits you can use a chunky knit.
In the case of combining fabric with knit should apply a simple knit textured weaves; such combinations always look elegant. 
Hosiery should blend with the fabric color, to approach it in density and texture. 
 Genuine and artificial. Fur is widely used as decoration in outerwear spring and autumn and especially winter seasons. The use of fur in clothing also subject to fashion. So, for many years it was customary to wear a coat in dark blue with a black cat or grey Karakul. Later was a period when red fur (marten, mink, sable) were used as a trimming for coat in black color only. The new direction of fashion - a variety of silhouettes and shapes, colors fabric - undoubtedly affects the character of the fur finishes, and are also much more diverse.At the same time fashionable long-pile fur (silver, red, platinum foxes, Arctic Fox, etc.), the middle pile fur (mink, marten, sable, squirrel, skunk, muskrat, columns), nizkovorsnye (beaver lamb skin, goat, rabbit, Karakul, lambskin, otter, etc.). Hence, as a result, a large number of combinations of fur finishes and fabrics, and color combinations.
As for faux fur, they are all with great success competing with the natural. Rules of their application and a combination of fabric basically the same as for natural furs. 
Depending on the fashion can change not only the color combinations, the nature of the fur, but the shape and size of the collar, the location of the fur on the product. Thus, the cuff can be located at the bottom of the sleeve and at a distance from the bottom, horizontally, vertically and inclined. Fur can be used on side or bottom of the product in the form of narrow or wide edges. 
 Kant, braid, soutache. These types of finishes can not as a means of expressing the main idea of the composition, to enhance the lines, details, reliefs, i.e., to enrich the composition. For example, Kant, who trimmed the side coat (Fig. 154, a), making them more expressive, visible, and all the coat is more dressy, elegant. He kind of organizes the composition, emphasizes the system construction, which facilitates identification of the details. Edging can be trimmed by raised lines, the edges of the sides, collar, flaps, cuffs, tabs.

In Fig. 154, b, shown set with shorts, trimmed with decorative braid. Kant must be combined in texture and color with the main fabric. If the main fabric colorful, printed, color of piping should be linked with the overall color scheme, part of the fabric. For contrast it is usually in the tone color of the smallest element of a fabric. 
Smooth the braid and Rick-rack is used in suits, summer dresses and children's products. They draw up the neckline, hem, skirt, line, zippers, pockets and belt bottom sleeves. 
 Natural and artificial leather maybe, like the fabrics used as trim for the top and sportswear in the form of edges, belts-straps, collars, cuffs, flaps. In Fig. 155 shows the vest with the faux leather. 
 Application used primarily in clothing and also in tracksuits and suits for special purposes. Basically, the application is themed (animals, birds, toys, colors). 
 Brush fringe, brush. Fringe and brush sometimes make zip lines, the edges of the items of clothing and lightweight dresses (Fig. 156, a). The main line of the composition is reinforced with the brush vertical, which gives the figure slim. In Fig. 156, b fringe trims the bottom of the dress. 
Tassels can finish lightweight belt, scarf, hood. 
Tassels, fringe and brush do any of the threads of the main fabric, or from other threads, which respectively pick up on texture and color. Dense, posypaem tissue is incised (Fig. 156, b). 
Lace apply in a light dress, dressy blouses, children's products (in the form of a yoke bodice, shirt front), sleeves, hem, skirt, etc. the Use of boundary contributes to a more interesting lace design edges parts. The composition of the blouse, shown in Fig. 157, is determined by the boundary strips of this lace. 
Lace also trims the bottom of the skirt, tying a skirt with a blouse. 
 Merezhka. The hemstitch used in blouses and dresses. Handmade hemstitch possible on fabrics, yarns which is easily pulled out (plain weave). More common machine hemstitch.
Features the openwork on the bodice yoke individual lines in the vertical and horizontal directions. Hemstitch and can fill the entire front of the bodice. It enriches the fabric makes the elegant model. Besides Tago, the openwork is used in the lines connecting the individual parts (yoke bodice, etc.). 
 Flowers and ribbon. The flowers are used in elegant dresses for weekends. Artificial flowers perform in a close to natural or conventional types. Conventionally reproduced from a fabric rose can be the main and only trim fancy dress. Rose to draw a different texture and a different color (see Fig. 120).
Tape (shiny and matte) are used in the form of bows, belts, ties and harnesses that carry a particular design load. 
There are a number of finishes, which is obtained by treating the fabric in various ways. These finishes can also be a means of expressing the main ideas of the composition (pintucks - Fig. 158, a, ruffle - Fig. 158, b, festoons - Fig. 158,). 
Lightweight dress are widely applied pleated ruffles of tulle or nylon.

Use finishing elements in the models one by one basis 

In the practice of modeling there is a way to diversify the range of products by using different finishing elements in the models one at a time basis. The finish applied to the finished shape, giving it a value style.
In contrast to the use of various detachable finishing (dress with the options) there is applied a permanent finish. Applying different finishes, change the nature and purpose of the model.
In Fig. 159 the four models of dresses made according to a single basis. Design solution (form) is repeated in all models. Diversity is achieved by applying different types of finishes.
In Fig. 159,a - dress, trimmed with cloth of a different color and a different texture. In Fig. 159, b, Flirty dresses made of fabric dresses, but in this case it is embroidered with beads and sequins. These finishes change the character and purpose of the dress, making it elegant, weekends. In dress, as shown in Fig. 159, lines connecting joints are reinforced and highlighted stitching. In Fig. 159, g, shows the decorative stitching crewel. According to this principle, you can simultaneously perform up to 20 models. 

Overload composition trim

The fashion of the early twentieth century, as already indicated, was characterized by a large overload of the models by trim (see Fig. 138, a). And in one a period used a different finish, and the other, on the contrary, was observed to overload the models with a uniform finish (Fig. 139, a). 
In modern clothes sometimes against all rules of the current fashion too used both homogeneous and diverse finish.

There are a number of finishes that are incompatible in the same model. It is easy to see how unfortunate, ill-conceived, finally, just a tasteless combination of three types of finish on the model shown in Fig. 160. (embroidery, pintucks and buttons). We now compare this model with another model presented on Fig. 160, b. Simultaneously used three types of finishes: the decorative stitching on the lines of buckles, repeated on the sleeves, buttons and plaid fabric on the hood. The consistency of all three of these finishes contributes to the creation of complete composite solutions.
Thus, simultaneous application of diverse types of finishes requires in-depth study of connectivity in a single model, as well as great skill, taste and flair. In each case, before coming to a final decision should be carefully selected to coordinate with fabric finish, comparing them with one another.
An example of overload homogeneous composition finish shown in Fig. 160, V. Here the collar, cuffs, placket and yoke trimmed with lace. Such excessive saturation of the composition adversely affects the artistic qualities of the model. This can once again make sure, if you compare the latest model on the other (Fig. 160, g), where the number of finishing elements less. 
To decide what kind of finishing detail in the resulting model is unnecessary and overloads it, it turns to close the details, leaving the model simultaneously more than two or three such details.



Category: Modeling and design artwork for women's and children's clothing | Added by: 08.11.2017
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