VARIETY outerwear 

IN the historic plan form of the top women's clothing appeared on the basis of forms of men's clothing, and the variety of types, shapes, cut, color combinations, patterns and textures of fabrics and also finishing materials of the top women's clothing far ahead of the male. 
For a long time in women's clothes were capes and shawls, talmy with a Cape and without a Cape. 
In the early NINETEENTH century in Europe appeared first on insulated women's clothing, resembles a modern. Spencer - clothing type jacket of cloth, cotton fabrics, satin, and velvet.
In 1820 there was one kind of top - dress Pardess (with sleeves). Winter townswomen wore coats men's of charms or duley, short coat with cords, so-called a La Polonaise, or Russian fur coats with a wrap front. Fur coats were covered with cloth, silk, velvet. 
In the early 20-ies of the XIX century was very common a long loose coat with sleeves and a few Pelerin (Carrick). In 1820 was a fashionable coat with a short balerinami of fabric in a large square, which appeared for the first time in Vienna. In the winter many women wore a type of kazamaki - short warm blouse with rounded floors and flared sleeves. 
In 1865 - 70's. there so called Waterbury - cloaks with a hood from grey or brown waterproof fabric. In 1890, entered the English open fashion short jackets worn over a men's shirt and which was the prototype of the modern women's business suit. 
In the early twentieth century women's clothing is changing under the influence of the struggle between the French course and direction of practicality, coming from England, and further simplifying structural forms during the first world war.
Modern women's outwear includes coats, coats, coats, jackets, cloaks, cowls, capes, suits, jackets. 
The main purpose of outerwear is to protect the human body from exposure to natural conditions - heat, cold, rain, wind, dust. So outerwear is made of multilayer: using different frame linings and linings of insulated or windproof materials, a thin, more dense or sparse, three-dimensional fabrics at the top with clothing, time of year and climatic conditions. 
  Coat - loose clothes with long sleeves, front closure to the bottom or deep smell. 
Depending on the time of year, which is intended to this type of clothing, there are coats summer, winter, spring and autumn, for spring and autumn. 
  Coats (or coat) as well as a winter coat - detachable garment designed for cold time of the year. In fur coats the upper material or a lining are natural and artificial fur. 
  Jackets - demountable clothes with a blind front closure (anorak - a kind of windproof jacket with zipper or snap over the head). 
  Short coat differ from the only coat length: short it at 10 - 15 cm, but longer than a jacket or cardigan. 
  Coat - garment, protects from moisture (rain cover), dust (boot) or wind (cheater). 
  Drape - insulated or windproof sleeveless clothes. A long drape is called the cap. 
  Costume - the clothing of two or three parts: a jacket and skirt or jacket and pants or jacket, vest and skirt. 
Style is everything in many forms of outerwear can be divided into three groups: 1) simple classic style), 2), 3) fantasy.
The proportions of the clothes of the first group correspond to the natural proportions of the female figure, the constructive lines and their design - clear, concise, borrowed from menswear. 
Clothing style is characterized by greater freedom of movement, convenience, utility cut, apply the finish in the form of patch pockets, yoke, strap, Pat, slot, crease, decorative stitching, buttons, etc. 
Clothing style fantasies are characterized by the use of various decorative forms, complex cut finishes. 

THE RANGE OF FABRICS OUTERWEAR

For many centuries outerwear made from fabrics containing natural fibers. The types of these tissues almost unchanged. 
The emergence in the twentieth century, new types of raw materials has resulted in the textile industry manufacturing fabrics, artificial and synthetic fibers having valuable physico-mechanical properties: high strength and durability, minor creasing, higher water-repellent properties.
Synthetic fibres also produced beautiful fur, which in a number of natural properties are not inferior and sometimes superior to them. 
In recent years another branch of the textile industry - the production of nonwoven materials. Materials derived from various nonwoven ways, outwardly little different from woven, manufacture them much more economical. 
Depending on the season for coats can be applied the following fabric:
for summer coats and suits fabric type wool and wool blend gabardine and tights of different textures and patterns with smooth or embossed surface, and the heavy fabric of cotton, linen and silk; 
for a winter coat - wool or wool blend fabrics, Drapes smooth or napped, dense or sparse, loose fabric style leotard and tights, boucle, fabrics with patterns of stripes of cells "in the tree", etc.; 
for a winter coat - classic style fabric gabardine, leotards, tights, boucle, lightweight and brushed the Drapes.
In addition, as the "tires" for winter coat use thin synthetic fabrics and cotton fabrics mixed with synthetic fibers. 
Currently, there are a number of films, faux suede, leather, materials, backed with cloth, or knits. All of this contributes to a significant extension of the range of women's clothing. 
In addition to the basic tissues in the simulation outerwear is of great importance for applied and finishing materials: lining,gaskets, etc.
As the lining is usually used solid-color fabric with a smooth, shiny surface (twill, Radome, satindoll, etc.); they all twill or satin weave. Also use fabric linen, crepe and jacquard weaves, fabric with printed pattern or effect Shang-Jean.
Lining is chosen usually to match the main fabric or finish (e.g., fur). Lining can play an important decorative role; in this case it is chosen according to the color contrast to the main fabric of the coat, sometimes it connects (single color or patterned) coat with a dress or suit ensemble. 
As insulated lining (like synthetic and natural furs with a low pile) can be used fabric with a soft, long pile, patterned cells or strips.
Lining, quilted with insulation material so that formation of various figures (rhombuses, cells, bands, etc.) may also serve as trim adorning the coat. 
As warming pads apply a variety of materials, including cotton, wool blend and wool wadding, a synthetic fiber wadding, fluff, lately, a proliferation of porous synthetic material - polyurethane foam or foam rubber.
If in winter, spring and autumn coat as the main used the fabric loose structure, it is recommended to apply the windproof lining from crisp, fine cotton fabrics. 
For the formation of a tissue uses the following pads: linen side cloth, hair or fabric hair braid, interlining, calico, calico, etc. 

features of MODELLING AND DECORATION outerwear

Outerwear is created taking into account a longer period of use than a light dress. Therefore, when modeling outerwear especially important to observe the basic principles, laws, and rules of composition (matching clothes are the purpose and character of the person, the suitability of the materials for the form and purpose of clothing, the subordination of all components and the composite means of the purpose of clothes and the main compositional center, the wholeness of the composition, etc.). These requirements can be traced to specific models of outerwear. In Fig.307 examples of the fashion trends in the forms of coats over the last 25 years. For each stage of development fashion (2 - 3 years) characterized by their silhouettes and volumetric solutions, coat, proportion and constructive lines, details and add-ons. In this case, the center of the composition can be a bodice or a skirt, collar or sleeves. But in any case, the solution of the remaining components of the composition is subordinated to the main compositional center.

The decision clasp is an important element of modeling clothing. The form and rhythm of the fasteners, the number and size of buttons should be combined with the size and shape of other parts (collar, lapels, yoke, pockets, etc.). 
If you are using fabric with a large pattern rhythm clasps coordinate well with the patterned fabric. 
In outerwear there are fasteners 1) single-breasted - with a Central hinge arrangement (vertical, horizontal, rarely oblique direction) or with a little offset to the left location; 2) double-breasted - with different width and shape of the Board.
Buttons are often located in direct and uniform rhythm; however, it may be more complicated arrangement of increasing or decreasing rhythm. 
In addition to buttons, various material, size and design, to clasp the top products use buckles, hooks, buttons, zippers, drawstrings, in addition to which utilitarian loads may be decorative. 
  Sleeves in the models of outerwear by the nature of the connection with the front and back are divided by 1) casting with different shape armhole; 2) casual top with Raglan cut sleeves, reaching to the cut of the neck; 3) casual proregion - the top point of the sleeve located in the middle of the shoulder cut; 4) tselnokrajnie with shelf and backrest; 5) combined fashion. 
The number of joints used sleeve one-, two-, and three-seam with a large number of stitches by form - straight, narrow, extended or narrowed down, with high head, with cuffs or opening different forms, etc. 
  Collars used in top products that can be stand style or shawl, stand collar, supine, draped, etc., depending on the direction of fashion the size and shape of their various. Collars can be absent, such as in a coat-type cardigan or some products closure from the neck. Collars also replace the removable scarves, gorjestani, Pelerin, hoods. 
In the simulation outerwear are widely used in various cutting details - is a Flirty, cover, pockets (Welt, overhead-mounted), belt, strap, PATA, etc. 
as finish the top products, artificial and natural fur, leather, suede, knitted fabrics, plush, velvet, various haberdashery products and accessories.