Winter clothes

The main requirement for winter clothes,- protect the human body from cold, rain and wind.
For the manufacture of clothing for the cold season are various natural and artificial fabrics and materials, including wool, wool blend, synthetic bulk fabrics, genuine and faux fur, batting, wool, feathers, warming and windproof, water resistant etc. padding.
In winter products to a greater extent than other types of clothing, apply the double-breasted buckles, large collars, cuffs and hoods.
  Clothes of natural fur. The most ancient kind of clothes to protect from inclement winter weather was the skins of various wild and domestic animals. Improved technology and chemistry of processing of leather and skins, machinery manufacturing products and parts of the fur, changed forms of clothes and fashion on those or other kinds of furs and the nature of the finish, but the fur remained and remains one of the most popular and the most valuable materials for winter clothing and additions to it. Fur has a beautiful appearance, high strength and durability, ductility, high thermal and windproof properties.
Russia is one of the main suppliers of furs to the international market. Russian sable, ermine, marten, Karakul, Fox, beaver, squirrel, known throughout the world.
For the production of clothing - coats, jackets, Pelerin, as well as caps, muffs, blouses, stoles or collars, cuffs, etc. - used skins of more than 100 species of fur-bearing animals.
The length of the hair all divided into long-haired fur (Fox fur, Fox), with hair of medium length (the fur of a marten, column, squirrel, rabbit, etc.), korotkovata (the fur of a mole, squirrel, stallion, etc.) and a (fur Karakul sheep, Sashka, lambskin, clam, karakulcha).
For each kind of fur has its own characteristics: length and direction of hair, number of feathers, shapes and sizes, the density of the membrane, the color and pattern. This leads to the kind of furrier's work, dress or trim and must be taken into account in the simulation of fur garments or individual parts.
It is especially important to correctly place fur, has a pronounced spinal part, which is the most valuable piece of sandpaper and stands out both in color and character of hair. Connection fur skins made different depending on the structure and size of the skins.
Fur bezchlebova, korotkovata seam in the direction of the hairline, or across (a cone-shaped or zig-zag lines). In the first case, the joints are almost invisible in the second, perceived as a rhythmic pattern. Paws Fox and Fox connect often forming a herringbone. Cervical and bederke foxes, squirrels, Doodle also constitute the plate.
Skins gopher, Sandstone column and tailor pre-developed templates. When cutting larger skins of rabbits and marmots templates rely on each style separately. Skins a group of kids without templates. Complex methods of cutting - dissolution, sediment, breakdown, rehandling, spike, pointing is used to give the skin the necessary length and width, or of complex shape corresponding to the patterns, but also to change the direction or thickness of hair.
After careful Podcoritov skins complement to whole furs or ready prefabricated, which will further cut products of certain styles.
The beauty of fur is often revealed through the skillful arrangement of the skins in scree or parts of the model. Here the main role plays the Skinner, but a lot he can tell the designer.

For coat, jackets, Pelerin skins of foxes, mink, column treated propusk, extending them to full length product and the coupling between narrow stripes of suede or other material. Perhaps also cross, and Pelerin - a more complex arrangement of strips of fur (Fig. 318, a, 6).
Form of articles of fur foxes should be very simple in composition (Fig. 318, C); as a lush, three-dimensional texture of the fur itself, the PA itself makes them smart.
More diverse shapes of the model, you can create fur with medium and short hair of a fur. These models shape and finish can be similar to the models from the tissues (Fig. 319, a, b, C, d). The shape of the sleeves, collar, patch pockets, belts, cuffs may also be different.
Mitigation of scrapings resulting from the application of new ways of processing allows you to perform the fur soft pintucks, draping, etc.
Each type of fur matches the outfit of one group or another - a strict, sporty or dressy. For example, the coat - a well-known form of winter clothing with fur on the inside - is from a well-tanned, beautiful, warm and easy sheepskin, which is not necessary to cover with cloth. The value of skins, no matter how it was great, not allowing you to carve out a shelf or the back. Therefore, the seams are internally, place as a constructive and decorative lines, emphasizing their stitching, braid or edging. The traditional form of undergarments modernizarea, easier;so modern look of fur garments in sport - coats - created based on the cut of people's clothes.
Widely used in fur-trim-oposi.
The technology of manufacture of fur apparel is different from the processing of tissue. Design detail is developed without seam, as furrier seam has a minimum width. Missing and wet-heat processing. It is therefore important to create the exact shape of the parts. When modeling clothes from fur first create the layout of a fabric on which the Skinner picks up fur plates or skins.
Lately furrier's work particularly, as it began to be widely used complex combinations of furs, for example, a combination of different furs, contrasting, but related, texture, applique on the fur, etc.
In this joint work of the creative imagination of the designer and experience of the furrier should contribute to the best expression of the aesthetic and plastic qualities of the fur.
  Clothing faux fur. Much attention is currently given to the production of new types of faux fur from synthetic fibers. These furs are in appearance close to natural, and in some properties (molestviuoe, hygiene, etc.) even surpass real fur. The possibility of dyeing in various colors, the application of different patterns on the surface of the fur, the variety of textures - all this makes faux fur a very interesting material for the designer.
In Fig. 320 and 321 are depicted jacket and short coat of artificial fur.
Thanks to the decoration, ease, strength and hygiene faux fur is a very good material for making models mostly sport type. Some types of faux furs are widely used in modeling a coat elegant, feminine shapes and style.

  Clothing: fur-lined. In addition to clothing in which fur is used as the top layer, there are a number of product - sports coats, jackets, jackets, casual and smart products in which the fur is lining.
In this case, a simple composition model, as the fur lining on the one hand, herself with the product, and on the other a few expands, adds texture and eliminates the use of draperies fabric top (Fig. 322).
For the top usually choose strong yet light and thin fabric, so as not to burden the product. As linings are used the fur of the animals skin which has a soft leather and thick hair, and soft faux fur with low pile.
The sleeve fur is usually not set, replacing it with a layer of wadding and backing fabric.
  Combined clothes. As a rule, a combined garment enterprises clothes produced for the purpose of rational use of small remnants of fabric and other materials. In terms of individual tailoring to the combination sought in the alteration of worn fur or other valuable materials.
When modeling of the combined garment special importance is the observance of the laws of composition. To create a beautiful combined model, the correct selection of textures and harmonies joined materials, the clarity of the composition, the proportions of the parts of the joined materials and the method of their connection.
The combined model can be so successful that it become a fashion model for the reproduction of models of the new fabrics and materials (Fig. 323).

Wrong selection of textures or colors, a combination of two fabrics or fabric and fur, without regard to pattern or complex lines - zigzags; the festoons, the desire to introduce into the model additional fine details or use as much material finish - composite lead to the wrong decision models, to the creation of ugly combined products (Fig. 324).
  Collars and other items made of fur. Fur collars and trim are very diverse in form and size.
When modeling products of one or another style, you must consider various properties of the fur. Fur and its gentle leather and delicate hairline, usually nastaivayut for strength on calico; used for insulation strip of batting or flannel. Fur foxes, Martens, etc. require special furriery processing. The shape and size of a collar of Fox fur depends on the magnitude of skins as waste when working with valuable fur should be minimal. Big collar made from whole skins, smallest of the half skins. Fur collars can be divided into two groups:
1. The collars of longhaired fur - most of all type of shawls of different lengths (Fig. 325, 326) or round. These collars do not stand to avoid fracture of the guard hairs.
2. Collars of fur korotkovolnovogo can be performed with high or low stand, with the stand and darted for the line of departure, flared, ruched, undercuts, and various forms of the line of departure.

Pick up the fur so that they blend in or, on the contrary, contrasted with the color of the fabric. When choosing finishing fur should also consider the texture of the fabric. A combination of fabric having a grained surface (such as boucle) and fur with a smooth surface. In this case, reveals and emphasizes the beauty and fabric and fur. In combination with the same boucle with lambskin fur its Shine and more voluminous texture destroys grain effect fabric.
Faux fur, designed for finishing, no need so hard to prepare beforehand, they are cut on the patterns like fabrics with a NAP.
Fur trim depending on the mods are usually on the collar, on the collar and cuffs, at least on the sides, pockets and bottom of the garment (see Fig. 325). Made of fur and pieces - hats, scarves, gariety, capes, mittens, muffs. Fur can be used in winter clothing, performing from his cuffs, trim collars, small collars entirely. In this case, the fur is purely decorative.