Summer coats and raincoats 

  Summer coat. Summer coats are divided into casual and dressy. In both cases, distinguished the coat of the strict style (Fig. 327), sports (Fig. 328) and style of fantazi (Fig. 329).
Usually the summer coat perform direct or extended shape, single, rarely double-breasted.
Dressy coat depending on fashion can be very small, simple or complex in form, with large draped collars with a decorative buckle, with ornate sleeves of a different cut, sometimes shortened. Cloth for summer coats used lightweight, smooth and multicolored, plain, jacquard or printed pattern, using yarn a spectacular twist of natural fibers or of mixtures of different natural, artificial and synthetic fibers. 
Lined summer coat, in addition to the utilitarian, often has a decorative value.
To facilitate weight summer coats sometimes make without lining; handle cut seams. 

Capes is a kind of upper garment without sleeves (Fig. 330, a, b). For hands often do the slots machined in the seams or cut and treated specially.
  Cloaks. The main purpose of coats is to protect the person and his clothing from dust, rain and wind. Before that their role was limited. In recent years, due to the significant expansion of the range of fabrics for trench coats have become the latest very elegant decorating item.
For the manufacture of cloaks used all kinds of fabrics of various composition, texture, color, pattern. A preference for light, crisp fabrics plain, twill, satin weave with a smooth surface. 
There are a number of ways to make the tissues of the properties of water resistance: gumming the wrong side of the fabric; impregnation of fabrics with various compositions; the film deposition on the front side of the fabric with imitation natural leather, suede or other materials. 
In addition, for the manufacture of coats applied synthetic tape, light, durable, thin and beautiful.
All of these materials can not be subjected to wet-heat treatment, so the form of the cloak must be created through structural seams and Darts.
In the simulation of the cloak should carefully consider its design in the plane by doing layout of the paper or layout tissue, as in mantle tissue remain traces of the puncture needle, eliminate the impossible. In the process of fitting the layout on a mannequin or on the figure to clarify the balance and all of the line cut of the coat.
The most common form of cloak is a free form - straight or flared with Raglan sleeve (Fig. 331,a). It is also possible, sleeve vtachnoy, or the combined one-piece cut with different design of the hem: with elastic, darted, PATA, cuffs (Fig. 331, b, C) - free. When modeling raincoats often use yoke and capes that are both utilitarian and decorative detail (see Fig. 331, b). Fasteners are hidden or open, buttoned, or the buttons.
The lining in the coats is playing an important decorative role. A large spread of bilateral coats - two tone and single color. Coats can be insulated padding and quilted with the top fabric. Design of collars in various cloaks from the Mandarin collar to the hood. The latter are loose, draped around the head and an attached, removable and sewn shut. Along with hoods, there are various simple cap shapes: Panama, beret, cap, scarves. They are simple in design, comfortable and beautiful (see Fig. 331, d). 

  Capes-ponchos. Capes (Fig. 332) have the same utilitarian value as the capes, but some restrict the movement of the hands. So they are more commonly created from various synthetic films, thin, light and durable. Cut these the easiest capes: straight, slightly expanded form of the back and shelves with a zipper and slits for hands. Hoods, usually tightly sewn on Linyi neck.