Costumes

Costumes - some of the most common and versatile types of clothes. Most often, they consist of two parts: jacket and skirt or jacket (jackets) and trousers, sometimes the costumes are complemented by jackets. 
Depending on the purpose suits are made of one or several different tissues. The range of used materials is very large - from thin, light for spring and summer outfits to the thick and doughy or dense, weighted for fall and winter suits for the street.
The costumes, as well as other types of clothing, divided into three groups: strict style, sports and style fantasies. Can be costumes, mixed style nature. 
  Suit strict (classical) style. On the composition solution and technology processing of these suits is closest to men's suits. In a woman's wardrobe it appeared in the early XX century (the so-called suits Thayer). The characteristic features of costume style are: 
1) correspond to the natural proportions of the female figure; 
2) the location of the waist line of the jacket at its natural location on the figure;
3) the clarity of composite solutions and concise construction lines that form the shape of the product; 
4) the particular design of the collar with lapel-lapel; 
5) the presence of set-in sleeves, often double seam with vented hem and buttons at the bottom; 
6) the skirt is straight or slightly extended form with a hard-coded jotted Darts and seams or folds, corresponding in location to the constructive lines of the jacket; 
7) the use of different tissues that retains its shape in the process of wet-heat treatment;
8) pants (pantsuits) straight cut or slightly tapering or flaring (including fashion trends). 
When you create a costume style is of great importance determining the proper amounts and proportions of the lengths of the jacket and skirt (or trousers), the form of a collar and lapels, and clarity of the location of the structural lines of the pockets (Welt with flaps or leaflets), and fasteners. 

Jackets suits classic style can be single-breasted and double-breasted with zipper on one, two or more buttons (see Fig. 333, a, 6).
Double-breasted suit is generally sharp, upturned or cut on the horizontal line of the lapels. 
The number of structural lines, they are divided into two-, three-, six-and samisoni. In special group allocate jackets with pokrainini barrels.
The most simple cut of the jacket has a surrounding shape with a tuck on a shelf cut from the shoulder or neck and one or two Darts at the waist line (Fig. 333, a). On the back the excess fabric at the waistline is also distributed in Darts (it is possible to tuck in the middle seam of the back). For registration of convexity of the scapula at the shoulder cut fabric pokazyvaut 1.5 - 2 cm or zastrugivajut little tuck. 
To make the jacket resistant forms use linen, cotton or strip the hair, edges, and apply wet-heat treatment.
For jacket style distinctive collar and lapels of moderate width. However, their form and the degree of fit of the jacket, back length to waist line, length of the jacket (Fig. 333,) and skirt-dependent fashion. 
Having a well-developed basis of a suit style, you can simulate various kinds of jackets: six - and semisonic, scoring barrels etc. On the basis of direct duhovnoi skirts you can create a skirt with a different number of folds and tucks, with different options for their location.
Jacket can be trimmed with cloth of a different color, velvet, lightweight fur beautiful buttons. In this case, the suit becomes very elegant. 

  The suit of sports style. For this costume (Fig. 334, a, b, C) is characterized by a comfortable loose fit, the presence of the cutting of the yoke and pleats, patch pockets, straps and belts, trim detail stitching. 
Skirt as suit style, straight or flared, but blsim number of pleats or deeper pleats, yoke, pockets, zipper, etc.
In the manufacture of tracksuits style used mainly with light embossed patterns or multicolored fabric. 
The form attached at the waist of jackets produced by soft tucks or pintucks. 
Clasps can be very different, but usually more closed than in jacket style. 
Sleeves can also be different: casting, tselnokrajnie yoke, Raglan (see Fig. 334, a, 6, C). 
  Suits for free time. In recent years a proliferation of so-called clothing for free time for tourism, leisure, disabled sports.
Along with the traditional solutions sports sets (jacket and trousers) are available new items and solutions: vest, jacket and skirt, culottes, leggings, leggins, tights, colored or patterned stockings rough embossed binding, and a variety of headwear: helmets (made of cloth or knit), the earflaps of different options, sports cap with flaps.
The main materials for sports garments are durable waterproof fabric and materials, woven and knitted fabrics, doubled with polyurethane foam (foam rubber), elastic fabrics (Fig. 334, g, d, e). For such clothes is even more decorative solutions sports style: fabrics with bright, intense colors, contrasting color combinations and textured fabrics and materials.
In modeling clothes for free time to a greater extent than any other used elements of folk art: style, ornament, finish, fabric or knitted fabrics, details and add-ons. 

  Costume style fantasy. Costumes of this style - the most diverse in form and character finishes: extended, pleated, draped, with an asymmetric solution of the composition (Fig. 335), etc. 
To this group belong the costumes using traditional cut and finishes.
In a separate group can be distinguished the so-called casual outfits of thick, loose wool and wool blend fabrics, smooth and patterned, buklirovannye and NAP, in combination with other fabrics-companions (Fig. 336, 337). The use of groups of fabrics-companions, that is, of tissues, of the same nature fiber and structure, but different pattern or color, as well as tissue contrast solution textures (e.g., smooth and granular) in one color allows you to create a variety of outfits. Most often, the children of fantazi solved as dressy clothing (Fig. 338).

Modeling and decoration of women's outerwear using historical and folk motifs

Despite the existence of one of fashion trends in different countries every people have their own style, national identity in costume and in the appearance of people. People wear always attracts the attention of fashion designers of his decorative, cut rationality, coherence fabric, form and finish.
Folk dress in its classic forms and the cut is often the basis of new modern models outerwear (Russian shirt, different types of Russian sundresses, Panev, Shushpanov, coats, and uniforms of the peoples of the Caucasus, Central Asia, Baltic, North, etc.). While some artists come from the simplicity of the forms and rationality of the cut, others of color combinations in the figures of national fabrics, and others - from the location of the ornament, the nature and type of finishing or completing.To this suit looked fashionable and quite modern, the artist needs to see anew and to rethink national and historical forms of costume, to reveal in them the features, in tune with the present.

In outerwear, designed for long term use, you should be very careful to use national and istorichekie motives, borrowing sometimes only the silhouette solution or individual characteristic features: cut lines, the shape of the collar, the rhythm and character of the clasp. It animates the modern women's clothes, gives it a subtle national flavor, does not make it etnograficzny. Great value for the complete image solution of the ensemble is stylistic unity of the additions to the suit (Fig. 339, a, b, 340).