Collars 

a Collar is a piece of clothing that is not in a modern suit is its integral part, as often it is not. But in the clothes of former times in some periods collar dominated, was the basis of the composition of the suit.

Period fashion of the SIXTEENTH and SEVENTEENTH centuries was characterized by the fact that the entire neck was closed with a huge white collar crepe fabric ("mill") that adorned both male and female costume and accentuates the subtlety of the waist and slender mill (Fig. 210, a). This collar was so expressive detail that now it is enough to wear a collar (made at least from the white paper) on the modern suit to create the image of the hero of the era (in the theater, on stage).
Then came the big white collars covering the shoulders, further trimmed with lace in men's clothes (suit Musketeers; Fig. 210, d) and female (collar puritans in 1650; Fig. 210,). 
Characteristic collar "Medici" (Fig. 210, d), high standing at the back, the prototype of the modern collar Apache.
In the late XIX and early XX centuries. the woman's neck was tightly closed, not only in dresses but also in blouses (Fig. 210, d). High collars, underpinning the chin and reaching the earlobes, held through sewn inside the bones (metal or whalebone). Collars finished with ruffles, lace, welts. 
The collar refers to the neck and shoulder regions of the clothing. It must have a fashionable and distinct form.
The shape of the collars is incredibly diverse; among them one should distinguish between five major groups: 
1) collars-racks;
2) collars are sewn to closed (deaf) neckline: turn-down stand-up (English), poliatlonu, plaskolite; 
3) collars associated with the turn-UPS of the bodice with an open neckline: turn-down open, like Apache and jacket;
4) collars one-piece, shawl and sailor; 
5) various collars sewn as a closed and open mouth ("clamp", fantazi, collars with a soft drape). 
Before moving on to practical development of individual collars, let's discuss in General terms some of the characteristic features inherent in varying degrees to all collars.

Some collars of the inner, invisible part of is counter, whereas the visible part of the fold-over. The combination of invisible parts - front and visible - departure and creates the basic shape of the collar. Divided the portions of the crest line, which is formed by the toe (Fig. 211, a).
If the original straight to take the line connecting the collar with the neck, characteristic of the stand-up fold-over collar, and compare it with a similar line a number of poliatlonu and turn-down collars, you will find that the straighter the line, the more invisible part of the collar, especially adjacent to the neck - stand-up collar will be. As line primaqiune collar departs from a straight line, kruglitsa and configuration approaching the line of the neck, the stand is less.With the full coincidence of the line of primaqiune collar line neck front completely disappears and the collar becomes plaskolite (Fig. 211, b).
The required nature of the line primaqiune is achieved in various ways: designing with internal tucks, soft pintucks assemblies. If the fabric can be subjected to wet-heat treatment is used Stojko and quickdraw. 
The character line of primaqiune of the collar determines its basic shape. With regard to the General variety of forms, it is achieved by various design of the visible part of the collar of departure. On the same basis, you can create a number of varieties of collars. The group that owns the collar, is determined by its Foundation.
The change from time to time established years, design methods and joining collar with the bodice. For example, a number of modern collars is not to draw up closely to the neck so as to open its base (Fig. 212). Many years ago, these collars would be considered a marriage. 
Initiating development of a particular form, primarily to determine which group the corresponding collar. Then detail the form and in General terms, developing the character line primaqiune collar.
Developed in rough form, sometimes the upper part of the shelves of the bodice, if it is required - with large margins, at the line of departure pinned to the mannequin in the region of the seventh cervical vertebra. When designing layouts of collars you can use also paper. Further, the layout of the slaughter line primaqiune. Note on the degree of fit of the collar to the neck. The collar can fit snugly on the neck or base; he might be deaf, open or ends butt together, to have the transition line polutanata shelves, etc.
The collars associated with lapel, it is necessary to accurately determine the location of the buttons, if the latter is provided (depends on the location of the line of inflection lapel, and the degree of otkryvaete). This is not a folded lapel zip up button or hook in the presence of a button located independently of the line of inflection lapel. When the line of primaqiune collar and invisible part fitting, it creates a line break (in those collars where required). Then proceed to the design of its visible part.
Often the collar, recreated the sketch or picture from a magazine designer, fashion designer, has significant differences with the original character and contours of the shape of departure. So when you make the line of departure must be guided by the natural lines of the figure (middle of the front and back, shoulder, armhole, chest and waist).
So, the line of departure should be issued from the middle of the back with a gradual transition to the front. The edge of the fly on the back should close the line primaqiune. If the edge of half of the layout is not secure, there will be a skewed shape (Fig. 213). To avoid this, the layout is fixed rear through the middle of the back (usually the warp threads; sometimes at an oblique arrangement of filaments). 

In a collar with a deaf neckline should determine the location of the line of flight relative to the line of mid front (Fig. 214, a, b). Line the middle of the collar passes through the middle point of the neck.
The collars with an open throat, you should determine the position of the end point of the line of flight relative to the line of mid front. This point can be below the breast line (Fig. 214) slightly above (Fig. 214, d), and sometimes it is located at the waist line (Fig. 214, d). 
Let us now consider the ratio of lines of departure and the shoulder, is shown in Fig. 214 and shoulder opening; b, the shoulder is completely closed; in the shoulder a little open; g - open half.
The ratio of the line of departure and the line of openings (see Fig. 214) and line of departure is not connected with the line of openings; 6 - line of departure for the line of openings at its upper point and leaving it on the protruding point of the chest; line of departure for the openings in its upper part opening of the line of the shoulder; d - line of departure is approaching the line of openings in its Central part; d - the line of departure is not true of the armscye curve and departs from it at the bottom.
The ratio of lines of departure and lines of the chest (see Fig. 214) and line of departure is not tied to the bust line; - the line of departure forms the angle a little higher, jutting out of the chest; line of departure of the lapel has a crest on the chest; g - the end of the collar parallel to the breast line; d nadechka collar (ledge) is located on the chest. 
Making the line of departure of the collar and the excess fabric cut layout; if necessary, the fabric increasing. 
A final check of the line of departure is carried out on the distance, and the collar on a mannequin compared with a sketch or a picture from a fashion magazine.
  Stand-up collar. This collar (Fig. 215, a) is a classic collar men's clothing - tunic, uniform, vintage Russian shirt. It is used in various types of women's clothing. 

The peculiarity of this collar is a tight fit their necks. Rack height and different design all determined by the fashion and change periodically. Classically, the ends of the collar make out butt. They can also be rounded (Fig. 215,b), and beveled, with clasp (Fig. 215, C), loop and transfer, bow, etc.
Strut can have a straight and a curved (microinfo) form strips. The extent of curvature of the rack depends on the difference between the sizes of circumference of the neck at the base and above. So, if the size of the girth at the base of the neck and at the edge strut are equal, then the front will have the shape of a rectangle. But if the neck circumference is 36 cm, and higher (4 cm) - 34 cm (Fig. 216,a), in this case the front should be slightly curved microinfo form.Direct bar, equal in length to the size of the top circumference of the neck (in this example, 34 cm), should be evenly cut into 8-10 areas and gradually spread to the desired width (in this example up to 36 cm; Fig. 216, b).
When cutting tissue, it is necessary to monitor the proper arrangement of the warp and weft (Fig. 216 in). 
The ends of the collar issue on the mannequin. 
  The standing collar turn-down. Classic stand-up collar tight to the neck; it is a characteristic collar men's shirts (Fig. 217, a, 6). 
The collar consists of two parts: visible and invisible departure - stand. In the stand-up-fold-over collar, strict form (which is worn with a tie) these parts are equal (Fig. 218). The visible part is delayed by the line of bend, closing the rack. 
Line primaqiune collar can be both direct and slightly curved.
There are different versions of turn-down collars. Sometimes a rack is formed separately; then the crest line passes through the connecting seam. Stand can be part of a collar; in this case, the seam is missing. 
The pattern of standing fold-over collar can be done on the basis of a stand-up collar. The latter should be positioned as shown in Fig. 218. Line the middle rack. should be increased by a period equal to the width of the rack. The resulting point will be denoted by A. From the point B to hold an arbitrary line end, connecting it with point A. 
the layout of the check on the mannequin, refining and processing ends.
  Collar plaskolite. This collar rests on the shoulders and has a flat shape. Stand is missing here. 

Plaskolite collar can be small and very large, the ends can have different shapes: acute, rounded, elongated, etc. (Fig. 219, a). It can also come back to back, and not converge at the top.
To create the form of this collar, you need the front and the back of the bodice to connect the neck butt and the shoulder line - so that they found one another by 3 cm (Fig. 219,b). It is necessary to lay down a sheet of paper and pin it to the pattern bodice. Line primaqiune collar will repeat the neckline of the bodice; so this line can be transferred from the cutter to a new paper. Then plan a line of departure, depending on the desired shape. In Fig. 219, b the corresponding lines show the line of departure of the collars shown in Fig. 219.
One of these lines is transferred by the cutter to a new paper. Layout, cut and put on a dummy for clarification of the line of departure. 
  Collar poliatlonu. This collar has a lot in common with turn-down stand-up both in design and in appearance (Fig. 220,a). The only difference is that the invisible part of it is less than the turn-down, so it is not as tight to the neck.
Layout poluotvorenog collar can be created on the basis plaskolite, making the last (from the line of departure to the mouth) three Darts. The magnitude of the solution of these recesses depends on the new shape of the collar. The deeper you tuck, the more aligned curved line primaqiune, approaching this line the fold-over collar. If the collar is slightly delayed, tuck, accordingly, make smaller. In Fig. 220, b are two variants of formation of poluotvorenog collar on the basis of plaskolite. Made based put on the dummy, then draw the line of departure of the collar.
Change the shape poliatlonu collars reach change not only the line terminations, but also line of departure. The ends of the collar can be done (on a mannequin) longer or shorter, sharper or rounder, etc. 
  Collar type Apache. This collar is characterized by the fact that connected to the cuffs of the bodice. If the bodice clasp ends (buttons or zipper),- cuffs slight, and hence the collar short (Fig. 221,a). If the bodice has a transition on the clasp, the length of the flaps, respectively, and increased collar in result it becomes longer (Fig. 221, b).
The collar can be of various shapes: straight or slightly sloping plank. 

The dummy pin bodice with zipper butt or with the transition to the clasp. Neckline bodice pin bar collar (Fig. 222). Strap width is arbitrary, and the length depends on,execution of its ends, which can have a single line of the lapel (see Fig. 221,a), to speak at any angle, having a ledge (in this case, bar pin, retreating from the ends of the cuffs - sides; see Fig. 222, b). 
  Collar business suit. The collar retains the character of men's business suit collar.
The upper collar is connected to the lapel seam-RASCOM is with the lapel one. The shape of the lapel and collar due to the shape of the entire of the jacket (see Fig. 147 and 148,b). 
The jacket can be single breasted and double breasted, with high and low buckle. When high positioned clasp the lapels are small and short, situated low when they are increased and lengthened. 
Buttons and vanishing points breaklines lapel scheduled through the middle of the front. 
The upper collar may be of different length and width. Depending on this change raskep, direction.
The outer contour line of the collar, the shoulder and lapel lines can be different (sharp, upturned, blunt and rounded depending on mods).
The layout of the shelves with an additional allowance on the lapel pin to the manikin. Lapel folded, depending on the nature of the jacket (single breasted or double breasted), the number and location of buttons (see Fig. 147 and 148,b). The first button in the jacket adjacent form outline exactly on the waist line, and the rest have above and below. Jacket poluprilegayuschy and direct the shape of the upper button of the location of inflection lapel. Only after determining the size of the lapel pin it to the collar, keeping in accordance with the sketch or outline of the desired line rascepa.
The work on the jacket collar ends in a clarification of departure, lapel and shoulder. 
  The collar piece. This collar is characterized by the fact that is with flaps (lapels) bodice one (rascepa not). The magnitude of the shift collar, the shape of its ends can be very different (Fig. 223). In forming the collar first of all should correctly identify its characteristic shape: a steep turn or plaskolite, tight to the neck or behind her. Depending on that, create the required basis.

If the collar is not tight to the neck, and behind it (Fig. 224,a), the upper collar is attached to the shelf, not at the mouth, departing from it (see bar in Fig. 224, a). 
The collar that fits snugly to the neck, ie as it has a rack (Fig. 224,b), the Central suture filament will be located in an oblique direction (contour line in Fig. 224, a). B this case, you must provide
match pattern of the fabric in the seam. If the cap has no collar stand or has a very small rack, line primaqiune kruglitsa (the line of dots in Fig. 224, a). While the Central seam threads of the fabric can be placed not in an oblique, and slightly beveled or even equity direction. 
Podbot (see Fig. 224,b), which is the top of the collar has the same contours and the direction of the threads as the bodice.
Prepared shelf bodice with an arbitrary line of departure and pinned the upper collar is worn on the mannequin and pinned to the middle of the front and back of the dummy. When drawing lines of flight cap collar it is necessary to ensure that esadi not formed angle, opening the seam (Fig. 225). 
The front shape of the flaps is determined by their length, height,width, and presence of a ledge. 
The line of departure, full-cut collar made according to sketch or drawing of a fashion magazine.

  Shawl collar. Classic shawl collar is characterized by its smooth, rounded line of departure, are fading. This collar has many varieties. 
It can fit snugly to the neck, having a cool turn-down shape (Fig. 226), and be more flat (Fig. 226,b and C). Shawl collar can be close to the neck (Fig. 226, a, d and e) and retreat from it (Fig. 226,b). In addition, it can be broad (Fig. 226,d) and very narrow (Fig. 226,d), short, ending high (Fig. 226,b and C) and very long (Fig. 226, g and d), with the ends ending at the butt (Fig. 226,) and finding one another.
Line primaqiune of the collar varies depending on its shape. So, the collar depicted in Fig. 226, and line primaqiune - gently curved curve (contour line in Fig. 227), and collars shown in Fig. 226, b, and C, this line is strongly concave (punchinella in Fig. 227). 

Line terminations fur collars shawl shape, using Darts or soft pintucks. 
Shawl collar connects to the bodice of the respectively decorated neckline. 
The ends of the shawl collar can be elongated and is designed in the form of a bow.
Shawl collar is based on the principle of a cap collar. 
  The sailor collar. This collar front ends converge back much the neck opening (Fig. 228, a). The neckline of the bodice is decorated generally transverse insert type sailor vest. Rear collar seam without a large, rectangular (Fig. 228, b). 

Form sailor collar can be created based on recumbent collar (see Fig. 219, b) and shawl collar (Fig. 228). In the latter case, the dummy pin layout shawl collar, increasing cloth or paper and clarify the shape of the collar, making the corresponding changes.
  Collar "collar". This collar is deaf, tightly hugs the neck (Fig. 229, a). It is characterized by the lack of visible fasteners. Usually make it hidden in the back of the collar. This collar can be different options: less dull (Fig. 229,b neck Holocene has the form of boats and collar also echoes this form); softly draped (Fig. 229,).

Any of those collars made from a piece of cloth, cut in the oblique direction. From the front, through the middle of the collar, the fabric at an angle of 45' (Fig. 229, g). Collar shall be double-width, and its length should match the length of the neck. When creating a gently draped collar (see Fig. 229,) a piece of cloth, preserving the oblique arrangement of filaments at the mid-extend (Fig. 229, d). The collar shape on the mannequin; put soft fabric of the radial pleats. 

  Collar soft forms. Most of the above collars can give a mild form. Achieve this in the following way. The layout pinned to the mannequin. Through primaqiune, and in some cases the line of departure (fur collars) form soft tuck, Assembly, undercuts. In Fig. 230 shows the collar, which by means of soft Darts on the dowry form. When forming such collars tuck can be different: deep, medium, shallow, open, closed, finding one another. Darts can be replaced by the assemblies and undercuts. 

  Collar Fantasia (wavy). This collar has a wavy shape (Fig. 231, a). Its basis is plaskolite collar. This Foundation is pinned to the mannequin and in two or three places scheduled line along which the fabric is cut and diluted (from the line of departure to the neck, Fig. 231,b). To undercut pin wedges, and to help create the wavy shape. The layout of the copy on the new fabric and test on a mannequin (Fig. 231,). On the same principle of wave-like form may be used to create a shawl collar and other collars.