THE TATTOO ON THE FIGURE

The headdress on the figure is more complicated than on the mannequin. To proceed with its implementation without the acquisition of the skills and exercises on the manikin should not be, because here we have directly to deal with various deviations from the proportional-proportioned figure (reproduced in dummy). Growth and body composition of the human figures are very different: tall, thin and full, short, thin or full. The girths of chest, waist and hips conditionally proportional figure are in certain ratios. So, for conditionally proportional figure 48-th size (Fig.264) these measurements are the following: poluobhvat chest - 48, poluobhvat waist - 38, hips poluobhvat - 54, poluobhvat neck - 19, shoulder length - 13, length - arbitrary. The disproportionate figure of the ratio of these measurements can be different. The most typical deviations from the conditionally proportional figure are as follows:
a narrow waist and disproportionately large hips; 
the waist is almost equal to the volume of the thighs; 
Empire waist and long legs; 
low rise and short legs. 
At the Empire waist line measurement of the length of the bodice smaller, and in the case of under - more than the proportional figure. The shape of the chest can also be different: narrow and wide, concave and convex. Breast cancer some women may be strongly developed, in others, on the contrary, extremely small, high or low.

When you tattoo, you must take into account the posture of the person, which may be normal (Fig. 265, a); slouching with a rounded back, rising sharply curved blades and shoulders tilted forward (Fig. 265, b); pereghibati,- when the upper part of the figure is sharply thrown back, the shoulders, back waist notch (Fig. 265 in). 
If the tattoo you need to consider all these features of the structure of the figure.
Pins prick with great care, to prevent them from scratching and do not damage human skin, but also with great care so that they are not shifted and fell out when moving or clearing a layout with shapes. Using the scissors, cut the excess tissue (neck, armholes, shoulder), placing the cloth left hand and positioning the scissors to the body by a blunt end.
Performing a tattoo in the figure, for fixing the mock-up fabric used thick cotton braid, which allows you to strengthen the fabric at these points the shape as the jugular depression, 7th cervical vertebra, the base of the neck - the top of the neck backless. 
The mock-up fabric is checked at the cut weft (the edge must be smooth) and to the required standards (pre-filmed) cut a rectangular piece with the allowances for free customized fit, the cleavage of the seams and hemming the bottom.

Dress potrebnoe waist

A piece of desired fabric (for the front) spreads on the figure so that the edge coincides with the axis of symmetry of the figure (Fig. 266, a). At the top of the neck (the jugular cavity) leave 10 cm to the edge of the fabric pin the braid, throw it.end on the back. Back pin the braid to the base of the straps of byustgaltery (Fig. 266, b). At the top of the neck backless pin another piece of tape and throw on the back, attach its end to the straps of the bra.Then check the accuracy of the direction of the warp threads, as may occur distortions, and attach the fabric to the front (along the edge, Fig. 266, a) to the bra and the belt (tape) at the waist. On the shoulder line fabric attached to the straps of the bra, outlining the line of the shoulder cut. Excess tissue in the neck and shoulder lines are cut (see hatched areas in Fig. 266,a), leaving a stock shear shoulder seam. After checking the correctness of the direction of the weft thread, attach the fabric to the bra at the chest.Then proceed to the formation of the tuck, which in this example will be located under the armhole. For this we first outline the contour of the openings, and at scheduled points cut off excess fabric. The fabric stretched and all the resulting surplus taken into the tuck. The direction of the Darts can be horizontal (see Fig. 266,) or slightly sloping. In both cases, the center of the solution tucks must be located at the projecting point of the breast.
Back the same as before, attach to the figure with the braid from the 7th cervical vertebra (Fig. 266, g). The end of the braid fastened at the front on the left straps of the brassiere (see Fig. 266, b).
The line of the shoulder cut of the back fasten to shelf with pins, creating fit fabric and making a small tuck. Then the fabric is attached at the center of the figure to the bra and belt at the waist (see Fig. 266, g). Outlining the neckline and armhole, the excess tissue cut. Chop off the side seam, revealing coutour waist as on the shelf or on the back, with the attached form, the waist more pronounced, poluprilegayuschy - weaker (Fig. 266,, g). Plotopteridae in the form of tucks at the waist should be done both on the shelf and on the back.
When tattooed on the hunched figure back, extend and lengthen, respectively, the withdrawn standards. A tuck at the shoulder cut backless deepen and make additional landing shoulder cut of the back.
If the figure parageusia, back, shorten, tuck at the shoulder cut slim, fit do not. 
If the shoulders are high and wide, then make the appropriate allowances.
If the back of the neck has the fat Deposit line neck backless increase and consequently increase of the shoulder cut. With small Breasts top Darts make a shallow and short. With highly developed and low-set Breasts - the longer, as their solution is strongly increasing. 

The formation of fabrics, cut in the oblique direction yarns

The fabric is cut in the oblique direction of the fibers, more elastic, better-fitting shape by drawing the contours of the silhouette. Oblique napravlenie threads in the fabric expands its use, enriching it and giving it are often different. Fabric, cut oblique direction yarns, better defines the depth of the folds of the drapery folds, creating different shades of color.
In fashion history there were periods when the construction of the clothing was based solely on the fabric, cut oblique to the direction of the threads. A characteristic example is the fashion period 1935 - 1938 twentieth century was the Typical dress of which were then coming into fashion silk fabric with stripes pattern. The skirt consisted of 4 to 5 wedges, stands for the lines of stitches pattern herringbone pattern (see, Fig. 126,).
Fabric, cut in the oblique direction of the fibres, are used mainly in lightweight dressy or casual dress, at least - in outerwear, where more applicable, the combination of a forward bias. So, shelves in street clothes, cut in the intended direction (as the shelves, cut in the oblique direction is difficult), combined with the back, sleeves and small parts are cut at oblique direction. This is especially true for fabrics with patterns of cells.
Before you apply the fabric along the oblique direction, it is necessary to consider that in some tissues such use is difficult, and sometimes impossible according to the physical-mechanical properties, on the nature and direction of the figure. Fabric having a high elongation (faux crepe, pongee, tweed, twill etc.), when placing them in the oblique direction yarns often do not hold the desired shape, SAG, ryhleet and that impoverish the General appearance of the product. Sometimes the fabric unevenly in the sky: the warp is more than along the weft thread.Hence deforming the product creases, distortions, sagging tissue, irregular arrangement of folds and drapery etc. in addition, a number of drawings when cutting out the tissue at the oblique direction of losing your entire species, and impoverishes the fabric, and hence all the product. Such tissues are those, whose figure is of thematic nature (garland, stripes and some plaid and striped fabrics). These drawings must be pre-tested on a dummy. This piece of fabric folded scarf under 45' (Fig.267, a) and fasten with pins so that the bend coincides with the line of the middle of the dummy, or shapes that determine the possibility of using the tissue at the oblique direction yarns. Sometimes it is quite impossible, as beautifully arranged the pattern on one side of the figure is completely distorted on the other. Sometimes, on the contrary, the drawing becomes more expressive, giving the model a special dynamism and sharpness.

  Front bodice. The bodice is of cloth, cut in the oblique direction yarns may consist of two parts (front and back), three (two shelves and backs).
Consider the example of ink and formation of a bodice consisting of two parts. Required in accordance with the standards of the piece of fabric fold the gusset plate (see Fig. 267,a) so that the warp yarn coincided with the weft thread. On the fold line of the fabric lay a thread or stick pins, to outline a future center front. Expanding the fabric, pinned it on the mannequin, combining the intended fold line of the fabric with a line on the middle dummy. The fabric is attached to the dummy (Fig.267, b), with six pins: 1 - neck 2 - chest 3 - waist 4-and 5-I - slice at the shoulder (neck and armhole), 6th pin attach the fabric on the left side of the dummy. Top of the line mid front fabric netscout to the point the base of the neck. Forming tuck, it can be placed from the shoulder cut. Depending on the size of the breast oblique direction yarns in the fabric on the side of the neck gradually changes to straight, from the side openings of the oblique direction of the filaments is preserved; with a small amount of the fabric is in the oblique direction from both sides of the tuck.When the location of the tuck from the line of openings fabric on both sides, will be located in the oblique direction yarns. In tissues with a pattern of bands or cells necessary to monitor the refraction pattern along the seam tuck. If this figure is broken ugly, then to apply this tuck should not be.
Can the excess tissue (is designed to tuck) to send to the mouth (Fig. 267,) or the waistline (Fig. 267, d) and place it in the form of evenly spaced gathers, tucks or deep, soft draperies. 
  The back of the bodice. In a model with attached bodice to cut out and front and back on the oblique direction of the threads is not recommended, as this bodice has a solid Foundation, his balance is not always balanced, why the product may warp, deform (especially in silnoroslyh tissues). If the fabric is thick, durable (taffeta, moiré, REP, poplin, satin), it is possible to apply the oblique location and on the back. 
The fabric on the fold line (under an angle of 45' to the warp and weft) pinned to the back of the dummy and all the crest Pro-drive on the principle of the tattoos of the back of fabric, cut to a straight direction yarns (see Fig. 170 b). 
The products free form (coat, jacket) you can apply a cloth, cut in the oblique direction yarns on the back. Such a backrest can be done without the middle seam. The middle of the back will be angled 45' to the warp threads of the fabric. In this case, it is necessary to consider the width and stretch of the fabric, so as the direction of threads in different parts of the back is uneven, which can affect the uniformity of the arrangement of folds in the finished product. This applies to dyed fabrics and fabrics with symmetrical patterns.If the back with a Central seam, in tissues with a pattern (stripes, cells) of the pattern on the seam line needs to come together, "Christmas tree". At an oblique direction yarns pattern creates a more acute angle (Fig. 267,d), with polycosanol - more blunt (Fig. 267, e).
Under the combined direction of the fabric (shelves straight, back, oblique) is possible without cutting the side seams with one seam in the center back. 
  Skirt. A skirt of fabric cut in the oblique direction yarns, make two or chetyrehstennoy (less mnogozonnoy). 
In duhovnoi skirt two side seam. Along the lines of the middle of the front and back fabric at an angle of 45' to the warp threads. Line the side seams the fabric is oblique cut. Side seams should be strictly vertical. Skirt can be extremely narrow, emphasizing the belly and the hips, or slightly extended.
Darts at the waist line can have three directions: sloped, as shown in Fig. 267, h, and I, and straight, shown in Fig. 267. 
Skirt can be chetyrehstennoy and consist of four paintings. The seams are in front, behind (Fig. 267, K) and on the sides or in chetyrehstennoy skirt from fabric with straight strands in the middle (see Fig. 242). In both the measures in the centre of each leaf is wedge fabric are angled 45' to the warp threads. In fabric with a pattern of stripes and cells, you need to ensure that the line of stitches pattern match "tree" (see Fig. 267,d).
In such skirts tuck combine with the seams. 
In addition to the wedges are cut at oblique direction (at an angle of 45'), you can apply poluskeletnye wedges, keeping the pair details single direction. Such searches are carried out on the mannequin. 
All the skirt fabric, cut oblique direction yarns are different from flared skirts the fact that their canvases all of the slices are located in the oblique direction of the thread. 
  Sleeve slim one-piece. Sleeve, cut oblique direction, more closely fit the hand more supple and comfortable.
Through the middle of the sleeve fabric should be placed under an angle of 45' to the warp threads (Fig. 267,l). The sleeve is formed on the principle of forming narrow single-joint sleeve (see Fig. 206). 
Nice look the sleeves are cut at oblique direction of the fibres, with a pattern, in combination with the front and back, cut straight direction.
  Collar. A typical collar of cloth, cut in the oblique direction of the thread is a collar "a collar" (see Fig. 212).
Shawl collar can also be cut in the oblique direction yarns. This collar has a seam at the line of departure. In Fig. 267,m shows the principle of cutting the boat. Thus the cutting is possible only gladkokrashenye fabric with a neutral pattern to both ends of the collar was no inconsistency in the different pattern and stretch fabric. This style of collar is applicable only in a light dress. 
In the oblique direction of the cut threads and the other collar (stand, polyathlone, plaskolite), keeping in the middle of the corner 45'.