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Home » Articles » National clothes » Soviet costume

Krasnoarmeyskaya form


The most significant and important achievement in the field of new mass forms of clothing of the early 20-ies was a new red army uniform. It has a history. In the first months after the October revolution, the red army was supplied from old stock Russian army. However, it was clear that a new revolutionary army and need a new outfit, different and appropriate to a new revolutionary character of the army.

In April 1918, it established a temporary Commission to develop a form of the uniforms of the red army, and was soon declared competition on the best samples of new military uniform. Conditions of its envisaged sporting nature of the garment, the ease, convenience and democratic character.

However, the main search artists sent to the notional, figurative and symbolic side of the clothes - after all, the heroic age was required, and heroic images. Therefore, the participants, among whom were the famous painters Vasnetsov and Boris Kustodiev, appealed to historical costume, looking dress, the headgear of the Russian army characteristics of romantic elation with which were associated ideas about red revolutionary soldier.

Many artists have worked with museums, the Armory, made sketches of helmets (helmets), coats, shirts. By the end of 1918 the Commission was presented a draft of a new form of the decision of the Revolutionary Military Council and approved a new type of headgear - a helmet, and in April 1919, his coat, shirt and leather sandals. One of the authors of the helmet, apparently, was Kustodiyev, as can be seen from the memoirs of his daughter, I. Kustodieva: "my brother and I remember ...shortly after the October revolution, the Pope received the proposal of the revolutionary military Council to draw a sketch of the form for the red.He made several options put forward, in particular, the idea of a hat, imitating the old Russian. The sketches were sent to Moscow, but the answer he received..."1.

Now it is quite difficult to establish exactly the author Krasnoarmeyskaya form. Maybe she has a "collective" of the author. However, it is known that the first prize in the competition was awarded to the artist C. Arkadievskiy, who was then entrusted with the implementation of this project.

It is interesting that here, in the first sample of the new suit, showed the most characteristic feature of the domestic arts of clothing - a search for new forms was through reflection and the use of traditional features of Russian costume. In the development of new forms for a soldier of the revolutionary army author assumes obezatelno task is to emphasize the heroism and romance of the image. It manages to convey primarily the shape of the hat, repeat in General the shape of the steel helmet of a Russian soldier of the FIFTEENTH century. However ought to fulfill another requirement is to make it comfortable and warm;so there are flaps that covers the ears. Initially the title of this helmet - "bogatyrka" - was reflected as if his pedigree. Introduced as a form of division of S. M. Budyonny "bogatyrka" was soon renamed "budenovka".

In the design of the overcoat, the thought process was about the same. Much of it is taken from the shape of the coat: close fitting in the waist silhouette, double-breasted closure. Through an elaborate system of decorative elements emphasizes a distinctive feature of the form to a red Army soldier. First of all, it is shown the individual elements of the star on the helmet, buttonholes, cuffs of sleeves. Skillfully played and used appropriate red color red shape made it particularly expressive.The symbolic language of the decorative arts was already here applied accurately and became the basis of semantic characteristics. In red army uniforms were found that meet the revolutionary masses of the heroic image of the red soldier. Obeying this task as paramount, the authors form weakened attention to the other side, perhaps, more vital to the functional qualities of the form.Long overcoat of heavy gray or khaki soldiers ' cloth hamper step, prevented the quick movement, and form "budenovka" was dictated by the tasks primarily figurative-emotional and decorative. However, all this does not reduce the value of the first experience young art costume.

In the spring of 1919 was introduced the first samples of the uniforms with stripes on the left side, which are called "conversations". Appeared summer uniform: shirt, decorated on the collar and chest, "the conversation," leather sandals. Because of the huge difficulties in the apparel industry, a new form has been introduced only in parts of the red Армии2.

To the image:Sketches of the new red form, show the main kinds of helmets (winter and summer), a summer shirt and overcoat. Interesting detail: first, the author retains the name "Kaftan" and only in parenthesis marks "the overcoat", thus directly extending the thread to the prototype - Russian old coat. And the shirt is also signed "summer shirt", because the design of it is very close to ordinary everyday Russian shirt.

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1 B. M. Kustodiev. A collection of letters and memories. M., "Soviet Artist", 1967, p. 319.
2 After the civil war in 1922, for all the armed forces of the red Army introduced a unified form of the gray overcoat of cloth and a dark grey helmet. The color of the cloth stars on his helmet meant belonging to a particular kind of troops. The red army uniform consisted of shirt and trousers. Gradually decorative items disappeared out of shape - so gone chest valves, the helmet replaced the cap in the summer. However, the shape of "budenovka" preserved in the red Army before the great Patriotic war.



Category: Soviet costume | Added by: 08.11.2017
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