To build a basic drawing of the pattern Uzbek dress the following measurements (in cm):
product length - 115
neck circumference - 18
chest circumference - 48
the depth of the armhole - 19
back width - 18
length backless to waist is 40
length of shelves up to waist - 44
sleeve length - 60
sleeve width - 42
the height of the crown sleeve 15
notes: 1. Width sleeve dress is fully specified, as the sleeve is drawn in the expanded view. 2. Measurements of the length of the back and front (shelves) to waist only use when you build the depth of the armhole shelves and in the design of the vest, as in the Uzbek dress, the waist line is not indicated.
To construct a right angle with the vertex at the point A.
the length of the product. From point A down to postpone the length-to-measure 115 cm and place the point N (Fig. 354).
The depth of the armhole. From point A down the delay to measure the depth of the armhole - 19 cm and mark the point G.
the Width of the plan drawing patterns. From the points A, G and N to the right, draw a horizontal line on which the delay width of the product, that is the measure of the circumference of the chest plus 4 cm for loose fit (48 + 4 = 52 cm), and put the points A1, G1 and H1 which connect direct.
Back. The width of the backrest. From the points A and G to postpone the measure backrest width plus 1 cm (loose fit), that is 18 + 1 = 19 cm, set point and S1 and connect them direct.
The width of the openings. To build the armhole of the dress need on line ГГ1 (in the future this line will be called line the circumference of the chest) and on-line neck circumference (points A and A1) to defer one-fourth of the circumference of the chest 12 cm (48 : 4 = 12 cm), put the points E and b, and connect these points with a straight line. Then, from the points C1 and delay down to 2 cm, to identify points B1 and C2 and connect them with a straight line.
Rostock backless. From point A right to defer one-third of the neck circumference is 6 centimeters (18 : 3 = 6 cm) and to put the point R. From point R up to postpone 2 cm (one third of the width of Rostock is 6 : 3 = 2 cm) and mark point P1. Point And P1 and connect a smooth curve line - get sprout back.
A bevel shoulder backless. A bevel shoulder backless depends on the height of the shoulder. If the shoulders are normal height, then the bevel should take 2 cm, with high shoulders, take 1 cm, lower 3 cm In our drawings, designed for proportional-folded shape, a bevel-shoulder backless is 2 cm.
From the point C down to postpone 2 cm and mark point P, which is connected to point P1 in a straight line, then the line from point P to lengthen by 1 cm (1 cm for landing shoulder of the back, which provides freedom of movements) and supply point P1.
The armhole of the back. To build the armhole of the backrest from the point C2 to the right to defer 3 cm (one-fourth of the width of openings) and to designate a point G2, which is lower down the line. The intersection of it with the underline НН1 to designate a point of H2.
To build the armhole of the back, it is necessary to identify several supporting points: from point C1 up to defer 6 cm (for all sizes) and to set the point C3. To draw the bisector of the angle C2 in 2.5 cm and put a point O. Then a smooth curve connecting the points P1, C3, and G2 - get the armhole of the backrest (Fig. 354).
Before. Due to the fact that the drawing of the front (shelves) dress is closely linked with the backrest constructive lines should be drawn on a single plan.
The depth of the armhole shelves. From the points A1 and E up to defer the difference between the length of the back and shelves of the dress, in this example, 4 cm (44 - 40 = 4 cm), denoted E1 and B and connect them direct.
Neck shelves. From point B to the left to defer horizontally 6 cm (one-third neck circumference: 18 : 3 = 6 cm) and put the point B1. From point B down to postpone 8 cm (one third of the neck circumference plus 2 cm for all sizes - 18 : 3 = 6 + 2 = 8 cm) and to put an end B2. Points B1 and B2 to connect a smooth curve line.
Shoulder shelves. From a point P on the armhole of the backrest to delay down 4 cm and place the point P2, then the points B1 and A2 connect in a straight line. From point B at the shoulder line to delay the measure of the shoulder width of the back minus 1 cm (1 cm added to the back shoulder for landing on freedom of movement), in this example: 15 - 1 = 14 cm and mark point A3.
Auxiliary point for building the armhole shelves. From a point In defer up to 4 cm (for all sizes) and to identify point B2. From point B1 to hold the bisector of the angle in 2 cm and place the point O1. Line В1С2 split in half and in the middle of putting the point B3. A smooth curve connecting the points A3, B2 A1, B3, G2 - get the armhole shelves.
Construction drawing of the pattern sleeve dress
To build a basic drawing of the pattern sleeve dress (Fig 355) given the following measurements (in cm):
sleeve length - 60
sleeve width - 42
the height of the crown sleeve 15
note. Sleeve length is determined by Merke, sleeve width is two-thirds the circumference of the chest plus 10 cm (for all sizes), in this example: 48 : 3 = 16 x 2 = 32 + 10 = 42 cm, height of lifts the shoulders equal to one-fourth the circumference of the chest + 3 cm (for all sizes), in this example: 48 : 4 = 12 + 3 = 15 cm.
To build a plan drawing of the pattern sleeve, it is necessary to determine the center of the sleeve, to do this, draw a vertical line equal to the length of the sleeves to measure and mark points O and N.
From the point On down to be postponed to measure the height of the crown sleeve 15 cm and mark point P, from which the right and left, draw a horizontal line equal each 21 cm and mark the points P1 and P2.
Hem sleeves from H-point to swipe left and right for 21 cm, mark point H1 and H2, then connect them by a straight line with points P1 and P2 - get the width of the sleeve.
The top part of the sleeve. The segments PP1 and PP2 divide each in half and in the middle the points P3 and P4, from which up draw a vertical line equal in length to measure the top part of sleeve is 15 cm and mark point O1 and O2. Points O1, O and O2 to join the line.
From point O1 down to save half the height of the sleeve crown plus 1.5 cm (for all sizes), in this example: 15 : 2 = 7,5 + 1,5 = 9 cm and place the point O3 will get the front half of the crown sleeve.
From the point O2 down to defer one third of the height of the top part of the sleeve 5 cm (in this example: 15 : 3 = 5 cm) and mark point O4 - get back part of the crown sleeve.
Point P1, O3,, O4 and P2 to connect a smooth curve line, as shown in Fig. 355.
The lower contour of the sleeve is drawn thus: cut Н1Н divide in half and mark the point N3. From the point H3 defer up to 2 cm, to put the point H4. Then divide in half cut НН2 and in the middle to mark the point H5. From the point H5 to delay down 2 cm and place the point of h6.
Points H1, H4, H, h6 and H2 to connect with a smooth curve line.
|