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Home » Articles » Sew yourself

19) Modeling of children's and women's dresses

MODELING CHILDREN'S AND WOMEN'S DRESSES

The transfer of the lines of cut on the main pattern is called modeling.
Before you apply a line style on the pattern, you should learn the basic movement directions of the tucks, lines of cuts.
In order to move any style of dress from the magazine to the drawings of the patterns, you need to install the main lines of the design, to determine which piece of the cutting or scoring, which details nastraivatsa another, displaced tuck, how are the equity and transverse filaments in the details of the cut.
When the line style is applied, the pattern are cut and expanded (folds, Assembly, etc.). Every detail of the pattern cut cut out separately.
After tacking the product in the cut lines it must exactly match the basic pattern.
When choosing a style it is necessary to take into account the purpose of clothes, material, finish (autumn-winter, spring-summer, sports, home, school, holiday).
Children's clothing should be comfortable and easy to clean, washing, Ironing. Children of different ages have different shapes. Girls up to seven years to sew the dress, not detachable on the waist line. If cutting the dress, then the blouse to do free.
School-age girls can sew dresses and slim cut at the waist line.
Woman for choosing the design should take into account your age, shape, height, color of fabric, etc.

BABY DRESS FOR a STRAIGHT YOKE

Apply a line style to the main pattern. Fig. 122.
  Back. The line of the armhole, divide in half, from the dividing point to the left draw a horizontal line cut in the shoulder.
  Before. The line of the armhole, divide in half, from the dividing point to the right draw a horizontal line cut in the shoulder.

  Flashlight sleeve. Main pattern sleeve cut down the middle into two parts and layout on the material sliding on the Assembly. The point of the section of the head sleeve connected with a dotted line, divide the line in half, from the points of division rise by 3 cm and draw the crown of the sleeve (Fig. 123).
The middle of the back yoke has a clasp, you have to add 3 cm.
Skirt front and back have Assembly. To do this, when the layout pattern on material, mid front and mid back have to push from the bend of the material for the Assembly.
A line cut skirt front and back of the dress collected on a needle and thread (small) and tighten to the size of a belt. The yoke scribbled across the face, away from the edge by 0.5 - 1 cm.
The sleeve has a head Assembly (assemble on a string), the bottom of the sleeves - elastic.
The yoke can be cut according to equity or transverse threads (on a scythe is not recommended).

DRESS SHAPED YOKE

 

Take main pattern child's dress. Fig. 124
  Back. The line of the armhole, divide in half, from the points of division down the armhole defer 3 see From point 3 to the left draw a horizontal line cut yoke (the yoke of the back has a smooth line) Line coquette divide into four equal parts, points down-delayed 2 cm From each point 2 hold down vertical line (parallel to the middle of the back) to the bottom of the dress.
  Before. The line of the front armhole divide in half, from the points of division down the armhole 1 cm down From point 1 to draw a horizontal line so that it is not reached until the middle of the front at 4 cm From point 4 drop a vertical cut line (parallel to the middle of the front) to the bottom of the dress.
From point 4 down the line-delayed 5 cm from the point 5 to the right (to the middle of the front) draw a horizontal line shaped yoke.

Caused by lines cut in the shoulder by a cut line extensions. Spread the material as shown in Fig. 125. When you cut it is necessary to add to the seams according to the rules (the addition to the seams shown in dashed lines). Middle of backrests and middle of the front yoke are cut on the share thread.
  Sleeve. Sleeve bottom and has advanced Assembly under the cuff. Find the middle of the sleeve and cut it on the line "equity", before reaching the head of the sleeve by 2 cm, and extend the pattern by 4 cm in the direction (Fig. 125) .
When the pattern is laid out on the material, along the lines of the folds of the front are laid snares. When the nous of the product are laid in folds and creates the specified style. The bottom of the back (skirt) is flared, and in place of the spreading pattern the snare to pave not necessary.
The middle of the back yoke has a clasp, which adds 3 see nastraivatsa Flirty skirt dress stitching across the face, away from the edge on 1 - 1,5 cm

DRESS-SARAFAN

 

Apply a line style to the main pattern. Fig. 126.
  Back. From the bevel shoulder (point 11) on the left shoulder put off 4 cm from point 4, parallel to the middle of the back, drop the line of incision 4 cm.
From the T point (the waist) at the side climb to 2 cm, from point 2 to the left draw a horizontal line incision 5 cm
  in Front. From the bevel shoulder (point 10) right shoulder-delayed 4 cm from point 4 (parallel with the middle of the forehand) drop a vertical line incision 5 cm.
From the point T (line hoist) on the side climb to 2 cm, from point 2 to the right draw a horizontal line incision 6 cm.
After application of the line style, fold the material in half the common thread, face inwards and do the layout pattern.
Mid back and mid front have an equity thread and placed on the fold of the material so that the distance between the high points of the shoulder was 8 cm (make dotted line).
Connect the vertical line cut of the shoulder front and shoulder back. 8 cm, divide in half, from the points of division the dotted line 6 cm behind the point of intersection with the vertical line and continue point 6 10-15 cm to the length of the wing.
The concave line connecting point 2 (back) point 10-15 (length of wing), with point 2 (front) and get a wing.
On the Assembly line sides add 10-15 cm
When you cut to allow for the seams to the neck and shoulders.
First sew the shoulders (before the incision), the suture is smooth on both sides. The line of the cut sleeve collect finely 2-3 threads, primetyvajut to the section, evenly distributing the Assembly.
Increase in Assembly and split on the side as well harvested in the Assembly.
After that, sewn the ribbon to bow at the waist.

SCHOOL PLEATED DRESS

 

Apply a line style to the main pattern. Fig. 127
  Back. From a point 34 (waist line) to the right at waist-delayed 5 cm and from 5 points - 4 see point 5 and point 4 parallel to the middle of the back drop of the vertical cut lines.
The waist line of the back cutting. The upper back remains unchanged.
  Shelf. From the point of 40.5 (waist line) the left waist-delayed 6 cm and from point 6 - 4, see point 6 and point 4 (parallel with the middle shelves) drop a vertical line cut. The waist line shelves cutting.
From high shoulder point 5,5 (neck) left shoulder-delayed 2 cm, point 2 connected by a straight line with point 6 (waist). From point 2 to the left shoulder put off another 2 cm, point 2 connected by a straight line with point 4. These lines are the cut lines.
From point 6 and point 4 drop a vertical line parallel to the middle shelves (cut lines).

In the layout pattern on the material of the skirt at the cut lines on the top is parted on the width of the pleats 8 cm at the Bottom to allow for the width of the folds to 1.5 cm and put the crease line from the waist to the point of 1.5. The material on the site lines of the folds should lay snares (Fig. 128).
Pattern bodice shelf with the layout on the material is expanded to the width of the pleat at the shoulder to 3 cm, at the waist - 2 cm When laying folds on the shoulder you need the extra depth of the tuck to clean under extreme crease.
The sleeve has at the bottom of the Assembly, the cuff is narrow. Hidden in the sleeve of a child's dress (Fig. 52).
  Stand collar. Cut a strip the equity from the calculation of the circumference of the neck plus 3 cm, width 4 cm stand

SHAPED DRESS FOR SCHOOLGIRLS

 

Dress cap (Fig. 129) at the mid front and mid back. Barrel bodice with a long waist, and scoring. Lateral wedges expanded, have build and finished with a button tab. Sleeve long on the cuff. The front bodice has a wide neckline, which is inserted into the bib or scarf.
Apply a line style to the main pattern.
  Back. From a point 34 (waist) the waist is the right put off 5 cm from a point 5 - 3 cm (the depth of the tuck). A distance of 3 cm and divide in half through the point of division draw vertical dotted line (parallel to the middle of the back) so that this line was above the waist 13 cm, and below 7 cm
Connecting point 13 to points 5 and 3, point 7, points 5 and 3 and get a tuck.
From point 7 parallel to the middle of the back drop a vertical line to the bottom of the dress.
From the point T (waist back) down the line Boca-delayed 7 cm, point 7 connected by a straight line with point 7 (tuck), line divide in half, from the points of division parallel to the middle of the back drop a vertical line to the bottom of the dress.
  Shelf. From the point of 40.5 (waist line) to the left at waist-delayed 6 cm from a point 6 - 3 cm (the depth of the tuck). Distance 3 cm, divide in half, from the points of division draw dotted vertical line parallel to the middle shelves so that this line was above the waist line at 12 cm, below the 7 see point 12 Connected with points 3 and 6, point 7, point 6 and 3 and get a tuck. From 7 point drop a vertical line of cut parallel to the middle shelf to the bottom of the dress.
From the T point (the waist) down the side delay 7 see Point 7 is connected to point 7 (tuck) in a straight line. Line divide in half, from the points of division parallel to omit the middle shelf of the vertical cutting line.
From the point of 6.5 (neck) in the middle of the shelves are lowered to 5 cm and a concave line from the hand drawn neck.
Long sleeve bottom must be equal to the circumference of the hand plus 3 cm.
Slip the cuff is equal to the circumference of the bottom of the sleeves

, Cutting and sewing

Back and middle shelves have a fold of material and are cut for a share thread.
At the expense of line Darts at the back and shelves is recklessne: from point T through point 7 hold a straight line to the bottom of the wedge (Fig. 130).
Side seams of the back and shelves cut along the lines and layout on the material line the sides of the shelves and line the sides of the back are stacked back to back (the side panel should be seamless). The wedges moved apart at the waist on the Assembly and on the bottom - considering the add on flare.
In place of the cut tucks make recklessne due to the Darts.
Dress is sewn with the coverstitch seam.
The procedure for the elaboration of the dress: the first thing to lay a snare in place of Darts on the (shoulder and waist), then lay basting in the middle of the shelves and backless, waist. A snare stretch and cut. Smatyvay shoulder Darts (the tucks produced nous of the width to nothing). Smatyvay the shoulders on the back. Boca smatyvay bodice from the armhole down the shelf bodice.When all of these parts of sour cream, take a side wedge of the skirt, gather the needle and thread in the 2 - S row (first row away from the top 0.25 cm, the second and the third away from each other by 0.5 cm), thread tighten to the size of the side shelves and back and primetyvajut coverstitch seam, overlay (made to put on the side of the wedge, pre-bent to the width of the seam, added when you cut). When the wedge tacked on, smatyvay tuck from the top through the waist and through the side of the wedge to the bottom of the dress (with basting all the seams must remain at a weight that is not to primitivists to other joints).
When fittings are not stretched the neck, it is necessary to assemble finely for a needle and thread (forward needle). After trying on smart dress and if the dress at the waist is wide, clean tuck. Dress scribble on the car, not rasprava seams. Basting is removed and all the seams smooth. Sew the sleeve, smooth the seam and armhole umatyvaet in the rules (p. 224) . Neck treated podkralas by beyka (beyka otkrivaetsa on the neck, the width of the borders 3 to 4 cm).Make bake face-to-face and sew dresses, (in the semicircle is sure to make the notch to make it easier to turn out), the bar is turned inside out (seam on an edge), the second end of the strap to buckle and sew VTI or velvet seam (on the front side should not be a line).
The insert is made of material of a different color and it is necessary to sew so that she was easily otpravilas for washing. Better insert to do on the buttons.
These styles dresses can be sewn from wool, heavy silk, staple fabric.
To familiarize with the modeling of women's dresses let us examine the style of the blouse, where the tuck is transferred to the line side.



Category: Sew yourself | Added by: 12.10.2017
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