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Home » Articles » Sew yourself

Bodice with short cap sleeves and gusset (size 48)

To build the drawing pattern (Fig. 7 a) must be removed following measurements (in cm):

1. Semicircle neck - 18 
2. The semicircle of the breast - 48 
3. The semicircle under bust - 41 
4. Semicircle waist - 37 
5. Back length to waist - 38 
6. Shoulder width - 13 
7. Sleeve length - 16 
8. Back width - 19

Construction drawing patterns 

Draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 7 b). 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down put 22 cm (1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus six inches for all sizes) and put a point G. AG = 48 : 3 + 6 = 22 cm 

 the Width of the bodice at the chest. From point G to the right will draw a horizontal line with a length of 52 cm and the point G1 (measurement of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm for all sizes). ГГ1 = 48 + 4 = 52 cm 

 waist Line. From point A down put 38 cm (measure length of back to waist) and put the point T. From it to the right will have a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

Through the point G1 will draw a vertical line up and down. The point of intersection with the waist line will be denoted by T1. 

 The width of the backrest. From the point G to the right put 19 cm and the point G2 (1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm for all sizes). ГГ2 = 48 : 3 + 3 = 19 cm 

 Width openings. From a point G2 to the right, put 12 cm and the point is G3 (1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the breast). Г2Г3 = 48 : 4 = 12 cm. 

The width of the openings 56 and above are equal. 1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the breast minus 1 cm for all sizes.

Points G2 and G3 will restore the normals to the upper horizontal lines and the intersection points will be denoted by P and P1. 

 Line sides. Distance Г2Г3 divide in half, and the breaking point denoted by G4. From the point G4 drop down perpendicular to the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T2. From the point T2 to the left set aside 1 cm and the point 1 is joined with the point G4.
 


The construction of the back 

 Neck. From point A the right postpone 6.5 cm (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0,5 for all sizes) (Fig. 7 b). 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 

From the point of 6.5 up put 2.5 cm and from that point up another 0.5 cm. Point A and 0.5 connecting concave line. 

 Shoulder line. From the point of 2.5 through the point P draw the line of the shoulder with a length of 14.5 cm and the point P2 (the measure the shoulder length plus 1.5 cm on the landing or tuck). 13 + 1,5 = 14,5 cm 

 Tuck at the shoulder line. A line shoulder split in half and the point of division connected with point of 0.5. From a point 0,5 right set aside 4 cm and from point 4 another 1.5 cm (depth of the tuck). From point 4 down put 6 cm from point 6 put 6 cm to the point of 1.5. The resulting point is connected to point P2. 

 The top line of the sleeve. Points P2 and G1 connected. 

From the point P2 to the right of the inclined line set aside 16 cm (measurement length sleeves) and put a point R. 

 the Line Pedraza and bottom of the sleeve. From the point G4 put down 2 cm and put an end G5. 

Point G5 and G2 join (line podraza). 

Line the bottom of the sleeves will get by connecting the dots G5, and R. 

 Tuck on the waist line. Distance ГГ2 divide in half and from the dividing point to the left set aside 1 cm. From point 1 draw a vertical line to the intersection with the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T3. From the point T3 to the left and right set aside 1 cm and from point 1 (breast line) down 5 see Point 1, 5 and 1 connected. 

The construction of the front 

To build the front hold the same lines and distances as for the construction of the backrest (Fig. 7). 

 Height of the front. From the point G1 put up 25 cm (1/2 of the measurements of the semicircle chest plus 1 cm for all sizes) and the point W. From point W to the left draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length. This line left from point ø set aside 6.5 cm (1/3 of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm for all sizes) and put a point SH1. ШШ1 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 

Point W down put 7.5 cm (1/3 semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 cm for all sizes) and put a point ø2. ШШ2 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.

Points SH1 and ø2 connecting concave line. 

 Shoulder line and chest tuck. From a point SH1 to the left put 5 cm and the point P2. From this point, hold down the vertical dashed line to the intersection with the line of the chest Г3Г1. From the point of intersection of the right postpone 1 cm and put a point V. Point V and P2 connected. Line ПГ2 divide into four equal parts and the upper point of division being joined by the dashed line from point P2. From the point P2 to the left on the dotted line put 7 cm (depth tuck) and put the point B1. The depth of the tuck is determined by the difference between the semicircle of the breast and the semicircle under the breast (48 - 41 = 7 cm).Line П2В put the length of the line В1В and the point B2. This point is connected to the point of SH1. From point A1 down put 2 cm From the point B1 to the left through the point 2 put the shoulder length 8 cm (13 - 5) and the point P3.

 The top line of the sleeve. Distance ГГ2 divide in half and from this point to the left put 3 see This point is connected to point P3. On this line down from point P3 set aside 16 cm (measurement length sleeves) and the point R.

 the Side seam. From the point G4 down drop a vertical line to the intersection with the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T2. From this point to the right set aside 1 cm and the point 1 and G4 connected. 

 Line Pedraza and bottom of the sleeve. From the point G4 put down 2 cm and put an end G5. The point of G5 and G3 connectivity. For receiving the cuffs of a point P and G5 connected. 

 The waist line. From point T1 down set aside 1 cm, and this point is connected with point 1 (line side). 

Darts at the waist line (front and side). From the points In G3 and hold down the vertical dashed line to the intersection with the waist line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T3 and T4. From the points G3 and put down at 5 cm, from the point T3 to the left and right to 1.5 cm and from point T4 to the left and to the right by 1 cm Connecting these points, get the Darts, as shown in the drawing (Fig. 7). 

 Constructing gussets. The plotted rectangle ЛЛ1Л2Л3 (Fig. 7 g). The length of the gusset LL1 and Л2Л3 equal to 10 cm Width of the gusset ЛЛ2 and Л1Л3 equal to 6 cm From the point L2 to the right set aside 1 cm and from point L3 to the left 1 cm Point L and L1 is connected to the points 1.



Category: Sew yourself | Added by: 12.10.2017
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