PANTS LONG

Measurements:
the length of the pants on the side..... 75 cm
knee-length . . . . . . 42 cm
the circumference of their hips........ P6 cm
waist circumference......... 32 cm

Construction of front halves. Fig. 91.
 

Take line plan 18 cm based 1/4 thigh circumference: circumference of thigh 72 : 4 = 18 cm.
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 18 cm by 75 cm, 75 cm - length of trousers on the side.
From point A fall of 21 cm is based 1/2 length knee length: knee-length 42 : 2 = 21 cm.
From the point 21 to the right draw a horizontal line of the step so that it went over the line BG at 4.5 cm from the calculation of 1/4 of lines of the plan: plan 18: 4 = 4.5 cm
The resulting angle is denoted by point S. a Line from point W to point B divide into three equal parts. On the line of the dotted line that divides the angle ø in half, put 3 cm.
From point B rises by 1 cm Then by hand are a straight line from point 1 through point of the top division to the bottom of the dividing point, then a smooth curved line connecting the bottom point of the dividing point 3 point 4,5 and get the line bow front halves of trousers.
From point 1 to the right-delayed 2 cm, point 2 and point 4,5 connected by a straight line.
From point A to the left delay 3 cm; point 3 and point 1 connected by straight line. From point A drops to 12 - 16 cm (prorezka pocket), point 12 - 16-delayed left 3 cm, point 3 connect and get the cap valance pocket.
From point A on a vertical drop of 42 cm (knee-length) and draw a horizontal line the length of the knee.

Building a back half. Fig. 92

Take line plan 18 cm based 1/4 thigh circumference: circumference of thigh 72: 4=18 cm.
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 18 cm by 75 cm, 75 cm - length of trousers on the side.
From point A fall of 21 cm is based 1/2 length knee length: knee-length 42: 2=21 cm.
From the point 21 to the left draw a horizontal line of the step so that it went over the line BG at 9 cm from calculation 1/2 of plan: plan 18: 2=9 cm.
The resulting angle is denoted by point S. a Line from point W to point B divide into three equal parts. On the dotted line, dividing the angle ø in half, put 3 cm.
From point B to the right of the line plan delayed 2 cm, from a point 2 raised dotted line, 6 cm and from point 6 to the right at a right angle lay off 1 cm Then by hand a concave line from point 1 through point 2, through the bottom point of the dividing point 3 and point 9 the plotted line of the bow back halves of trousers.
From point A to the right draw dotted line horizontal line 9 - 10 cm. Put the ruler at point 1 and the dotted line so that the line from point 1 to the dotted line was equal to 21 cm from calculation 1/2 waist circumference plus 5 cm for the tuck, minus the amount received from the line layout of front halves of trousers, plus 2cm for loose fit: waist circumference 64: 2+5=37 cm 37 - 18+2=21 cm.
From point A on a vertical drop of 42 cm to the left and draw the line length to the knees.
From the point 42 to the right put off 3 cm From the right point To draw a horizontal line 3 cm and Then sequentially connecting with straight lines the point 3, point 3 and point 21.
From the point G to the left draw a horizontal line 2 cm, point 2 and point 9 connecting with a straight line.
Waist line from point 1 to point 21, divide in half, from the points of division drop dashed vertical line 10 cm, then from the point of division of the right and left waist-delayed by 2.5 cm (depth tuck 5 cm). 2,5 points connected by straight lines from point 10.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut material is folded in half, face inwards and cut two of the front halves, then two back.
When you cut it is necessary to monitor equity the thread is held in the middle of the pants. If the material is narrow, you can pretrazivati wedges only to the back half of the pants.

Study of pants

Sewing pants begin with a study of the pocket.
Take burlap (canvas or any sturdy fabric) width 22 - 24cm, longer valances pockets 5 - 8 cm.
Enclose burlap valance under the front part of the pants so that these parts came for each other at 3 cm (burlap must be facing the wrong side of the pants). The edge of the valance is folded by 0.5 cm and prostrachivajut to the edge of the pocket. Then the valance with burlap folded in the face of pants in the scribble region (Fig. 93 a).
 

Take the rear half of the pants, the second end of the pocket (burlap) is applied to the underside to the underside of the back of the pants, there pants, impose the bar-the valance (share a strip of cloth from the material of trousers) wide, 3 cm long cut on the 2 - 3 cm (Fig. 93 b). Sew all together, then bar (valance) swerve to the side of the pocket, the second end bends on
0.5 cm and the edge of prostrachivajut to burlap pocket. Burlap stitch and overcast stitch rare stitch (Fig. 93).
 

Prepare two sections (sainik) width 1.5 cm, length 9 - 10 cm. One strap is placed under the front part of the pants, away from the top of the waist 1.5 - 2 cm Then the front part of the pants is applied to the back and clip the strap (satanic) two or three lines in the face (93 g).
The sides of the pants sew or coverstitch seam patch, the front part of the pants is superimposed on the rear and we used in the region.
The second tab (zapranis) podernuta buckle is sewn into the back dart. After that it joins the inner part of the pants length.

The construction of the fly and accosca. Fig. 94 and
 

Take a right angle From point A. down-delayed 27 cm, the size equal to the line bow front from point 1 to point 3, plus 5 cm (belt width): the line of the bow 22 + 5 = 27 cm
From point A the right postpone 5 cm, from 5 points down at a right angle lay off 3 cm from point 3 to the right at a right angle lay off 4 cm from point 4 down at a right angle defer 3 see Line 3 cm divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 2.5 cm.
Line 27 And divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 5 cm.
From a point 27 up the line delay of 2.5 cm from point 3 up to 2.5 cm
From the point of postponing a 2.5 right 2.5 cm, left - 1,5 cm
When all the points are placed, prepare fly: from the hand lead line from point 5 (top) through point 4 to point to 2.5, point 5, point 2.5 to the point 27. Then connect point 27 point to 1.5 point 1.5 point 3.
The left side of the bow (prorice) is processed by the codpiece, which consists of podchaynov fly and podgainij lining and strips of canvas. The lining and canvas are cut to the codpiece the size of the fly. Fly ready to apply to the line of the bow so that the lining of the codpiece was to the lining of the pants. Fly prostrachivajut on the machine in the face of pants. Loop prometia.
The right side of the line of the bow processed by otrokom, which is part of the line bow and has buttons (Fig. 94 b) .
Otcasek processed Podkayne material - lining which is hidden Odeska wider than 2 cm, and the canvas, knitting Odeska already 1 cm Buttons should sew strictly to the hinges.
After otcasek and sewn fly, stitched waistband tutu is to the top of the belt and canvas lining.
The belt is hidden from calculation 1/2 waist circumference plus 4 cm: waist circumference 64: 2+ 4 = 36 cm.
 

The width of the belt front - to- 5 - 3 cm back 6 to 4 cm (Fig. 95). The lining and canvas belt has been the pattern of the belt. Duck for strip already cut out the lining for 2 cm.
Belt put a face to the waist of the pants and prostrachivajut, the seam is directed toward the belt, canvas cover with lining and scribble on the face of trousers in the seam zone.

Short pants

To build short used pants pattern long pants with some modifications.

Construction of front halves. Fig. 96
 

Take a basic drawing of the front halves of trousers. From the point 42 to the right draw a horizontal line length to the knees and denoted by the point D. From the point D drops down to 3 cm, from the point 42 to the right of the line delay 1 see Point 1 connected by straight lines from point 21 (on-line step) and the point 3. Then point 3 connected by a straight line with point of 4.5. The upper part of the drawing of the trousers remains unchanged.

Building a back half. Figure 97

Take a basic drawing of the rear halves of the pants. From the point 42 to the left draw a horizontal line length to the knees and denoted by the point D. the Right to continue the line length knee to the point 3.
From the point D to the left draw a horizontal line 4 cm., point 4 connect the straight dotted line from point 9; the dotted line divide in half. From the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 1 cm, then a concave line from the hand connecting point 9 through point 1 and point 4. The upper part of the drawing of the trousers remains unchanged.
Cut and sew short pants according to the rules of cutting and sewing of trousers.

The PELERINE. Fig. 98
 

Measurements:
length balerinki......... 65 cm
neck circumference......... 13,5 cm
Take a straight angle A. From the point A to the right of the line plan delayed 10 cm (for all children's sizes).
From point 10 we omit the dotted vertical line b. calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1.5 cm: neck circumference 27 : 6 + 1,5 = 6 cm.
From the point 10 to the right of the line plan delayed 1.5 cm (for all sizes), from a 1.5 point to the right of the line plan delayed 65 cm (length) .
Point 1,5 combine hand-smooth line with point 6 and get the neck back.
From point A vertically lowered to 10 cm and from point 10 to the right at a right angle draw dotted line horizontal line 6 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference plus 1.5 cm: neck circumference 27: b+ 1,5=6 cm.
From a point 10 vertical fall by 5 cm (for all sizes) and from point 5 to the right draw dotted line horizontal line 15 cm (for all sizes).
Point 5 vertical drops 2 cm, from point 2 to the left draw a horizontal line 3 cm When the points are placed, connect point 15 with straight lines from point b and point b and get a tuck; then from point 2 are from the hand of the concave line to the point 6 and get the neckline of the front.
From point 10 (in the vertical) down-delayed 67 cm based on length of 65 cm plus 2 cm.
From a point 67 delay left 3 cm, point 3 is connected to point 3 (top) .
The bottom of the Cape is drawn in a semicircle from the points 65 to 67 points and a plus-3 cm, put on the clasp.

Cutting and tailoring

The middle of the back of the Cape has a fold of material and cut out on equity. The Cape fastens with buttons. The Cape can be made with collar and hood, Welt pockets or slits for the hands. Length - optional. Podborny otkrivaetsa in cut and sewn according to the rules.
The Cape can be lined throughout its circumference, lining otkrivaetsa for this pattern. The shoulder tuck is smoothed on both sides (cut the tuck is strictly prohibited).
If the material is narrow, seam to do only in the middle of the back.