BRA "CAP"

Measurements:
the circumference of the chest .............. 48 cm
circumference under Breasts ..... 40 cm

Construction of the cups. Figure 106

Take the plan line AB, equal to 13 cm, at the rate of 1/8 of the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm free customized fit: bust 96: 8+1= 13 see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 13 cm by 17 cm. 17 cm comes from the calculation of 1/6 the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm: bust 96: 6+1=17 cm
Lines AB and BG each divide in half. From point B to the left of the line plan delayed 4 cm (5 cm depending on the circumference of the chest), point 4 connect a straight line with a breaking point of the line BG. This line should croatica common thread. From the point G to the left horizontally-delayed 2 cm and point 2 are connected with the breaking point of the line BG. This line is the mid-point of the front and line the sides.
From a point In the right horizontal delay 5 cm From the point dividing the line AB. up and down on a vertical delay of 1 cm, each point 1 connect the straight dashed line with dot 4 and dot 5, each line of dashes divide in half, from the points of division to the left at a right angle lay off 1 cm Then a concave line from the hand connecting point 4 through point 1 with point 1, point division, point 1, point 1, point 5. The line from point 5 to point 2, divide in half, from the point of dividing up delay of 0.5 cm and a concave line, hands joined point 2 point 0.5 point 5.Such parts of the cups need to cut 4. A line from the points of division of BG to the point G denoted by the two dashes (this line will set the height of the sides of the bra).

Build the sides. Fig. 107

Take a horizontal line AB from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm; the chest circumference 96: 4 + 2 = 26 cm

From point A up hold a vertical line equal to the line of cups from the points of division of BG to the point G (17: 2=8.5 cm), and we denote it by point B. From point B up hold a vertical line of 4 cm (the width of the sides), point 4 and point To connect. From a point In the right(tilt) - delayed 2 - 3 see Point 2 connected by a straight line with point A.
Line A2 is hidden in the share thread.

The construction of the belt. Fig. 108

Take line plan of 40 cm from the calculation of 1/2 of the circumference, measured under bust: circumference under bust 80: 2=40 cm
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 40 cm by 3 cm where 8 cm is the width of the belt. Lines AB and BG each divide in half, and the points of division being joined by a dotted line. The dashed line has a fold of material and cut out on equity.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut to allow for seams 0.5 cm it is Very important to observe the direction of the thread, to put to the equity line equity. Otherwise, the bra sit well on the figure will not. Cups four times to cut the sides in half, the belt twice. The cups are sewn inverted seam. Seam no wider than 0,25 m.
Take two cups, fold inside out, sew on the concave line, from point 4 to point 5, the seam is smooth on two sides, the cups turn inside out, seam on the edge, and bends on the wrong side prostrachivajut again.
Ready cups are sewn through the middle of the front coverstitch seam there, a seam is smoothed (width of the seam is not more than 0.5 cm). Cut strap on equity a string with a width of 3 cm and a length equal to the length of the mid front and 2 cm (the width of the middle of the front is 8.5 +2= 10.5 cm). The bar with the two sides of bends, close the seam and on both sides prostrachivajut in the region.
The sides are sewn to the bra cups lapped seam there, a seam width of 0.5 cm Apply the cover to the bra is the wrong side to the wrong side (the edge side cover above the edges of the sides of the bra), sew the sides straightened out the seam bends and prostrachivajut in the region.
Right side side cover handle under loop. Cut the strap width on the width of a bra, long 5 - 6 cm Made of a mesh material. On the face of the edge of the stack bra loop (loop K cups) and cover the face of the crossbar. All together prostrachivajut. Turn the strap inside out, the seam on the edge, the second edge strap buckle and prostrachivajut by car in the region.
The left side of the sides of the bra is treated under the buttons.
Width of cut strap width of the bra, with a length of 5 to 6 cm inside the edge of the bra make strap, face, sew, stitch is directed toward the bar, bend the bar in half, edge bends, close the seam and prostrachivajut edge (this is the end of bra built up strap). After the straps are sewn to the belt: the belt face is applied to the underside of the bra and prostrachivajut, joint width 1 cm
The seam is directed towards the belt, the belt bend in half, the edge of the belt buckle 1 cm, cover the seam and prostrachivajut in the region at the front side of the bra.
At the bottom of the belt is machine stitching.
The top of the bra process piping there, of a width of 1 - 1,5 cm Width of the shoulder is optional. But keep in mind that the larger the breast, the wider the have to do straps. Ready straps applied to the underside of the bra at a distance of 7 - 9 cm from the middle of the back, top cover with bias binding (the binding facing the wrong side of the bra) and all prostrachivajut. Bake turn there is a seam on the edge, the second edge bakey bends and prostrachivajut in the region in the face of bra.
When the great circle of the breast cups are placed strap, strap width 3 to 4 cm of the Bar with cups sewn seam there is, cover the second strap and prostrachivajut the edge in the face.

BEACH PANTIES

Measurements:
knee-length . . . . . . 56 cm
the circumference of their hips........ 50 cm
waist circumference......... 38 cm

Build back halves. Fig. 109

Take line plan 27 cm,at the rate of 1/4 thigh circumference plus 2cm for loose fit: circumference of hips 100: 4+2=27 cm
Build the rectangle ABC size 27 cm 38 cm 38 cm taken from the calculation of 1/2 length knee-length plus 10 cm (for all sizes): knee-length 56:2+10=38 cm
From a point In the right horizontal delay width between the legs of 4 cm - line step (in rare cases, you can take 5 cm).
From point G up vertically delayed 15 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the length knee-length plus 1cm:knee-length 56: 4+1=15 cm.
Point 15 and point 4 connect the straight dashed line, dotted line, divide in half, from the dividing point to the left at a right angle defer 3 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 15 point 3 point 4 and get a cutout for feet rear halves of the pants.
From point A up hold a vertical line of 4 cm (the height of the waist line). From point A to the right of the line plan delayed 23 cm from calculate 1/4 waist circumference plus 5 cm for the tuck: waist circumference 76: 4+5=24 cm
From a point 23 upward at a right angle lay off 2 cm, point 2 connect a straight dotted line with point 4, the line of dashes divide in half, from the points of division down (parallel to the middle of the back of underpants) omit the dotted line a 15 cm (length tuck). From the dividing point to the left of the dotted line-delayed 1/2 tuck - 2.5 cm From the dividing point to the right of the dotted line-delayed 1/2 tuck - 2.5 cm, from the point of 2.5 (right) rise to 0.5 cm Drawn tuck, connecting point a 2.5 point 15 point 15 point of 0.5. From a point 0,5 hold a straight line to point 2.Point 2 connect the straight dashed line with point 15 (cut for legs), a line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm Concave line, hands joined point 2 point 0.5 point 15 and the receive line side.
From point 15 to the right draw a horizontal line 3 cm from point 2 to the right at a right angle to the inclined line of side drawing a line 3 cm (strap width), point 3 connected with a dotted line, a dashed line, divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm and a concave line parallel to the sides, a drawn bar.
The middle of the backside pant has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Construction of front halves. Fig. 110

Take line plan 25 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of hip: circumference of hips 100: 4= 25 cm.
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 25 cm 38 cm 38 cm taken from the calculation of 1/2 length knee-length plus 10 cm (for all sizes): knee-length 56: 2+ 10 = 38 cm
From the point G to the left on the horizontal delay of 4 cm From a point In the vertical rise by 15 cm from a calculation 1/4 length knee-length plus 1cm: knee-length 56: 4+ 1 = 15 cm.
Point 15 and point 4 connect the straight dotted line, the dotted line divide into three equal parts.
From the bottom division to the right at a right angle lay off 4 cm from the top - 3 cm, Concave line from the hand connecting point 15 point 3, point 4 and point 4 and get a cutout for the front legs of the pant halves.
From point B to the left of the line plan delayed 21 cm calculate 1/4 waist circumference plus 2 cm for the tuck: waist circumference 76: 4 + 2 = 21 cm.
From the point 21 up to 2 cm (the length of the sides of the front equal to the length of the sides of the rear halves of cowards), point 2 connect the straight dashed line with point 15 (cut for legs), a line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the left at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm and a concave line, hands joined point 2 point 0.5 point 15 and get a line the sides of the front halves of pant.
Point 2 connected by a straight line with point B. From point B to the left of the inclined line-delayed 6 cm (the distance from the middle front to tuck), from point 6 parallel to the middle of the front of underpants lowered dotted line 5 cm (length tuck). From the point 6 to the right and to the left of the line-delayed by 1 cm (the depth of the tuck), point 1 (left) connected to point 5 point 5 point 1 (right) and get the dart. The width of the belt in the middle of the front 10 cm on a side 5 cm Free line draw zone.
The middle of the front panties front half has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut women's pant pattern front and back halves put the butt on the neckline for feet (distance 4 cm). Briefs on the line of the seam do not have a step (Fig. 111).
Mid-front and mid-butt panties laid on a fold of material on the share thread. When you cut around to allow for seams at 0.5 cm Cut to produce the inside out. After the cut, in place of Darts lay a snare, and in the middle of the front and back - basting.
Back tuck smatyvay inside out, front is evident. From the back halves of the right side to cut off the bar at 3 cm After tacking the sides to make the fitting and if the pants sit well, to sew Darts and smooth. Each back tuck smoothed on two sides, while the front is smoothed by the middle of the front. To the left side podtraivaet strap width 5 - 6 cm (straps must be pokrainini cut line side). Then podtraivaet belt at the waist front and back halves. The middle belt should have a fold of material.Sew right side seam lapped inside out, zaparivajut the front half, weld width 0.5 cm To the line flanks the left side (both halves) sew the strap. The bar face is applied to the underside of the side the pant, sew, seam width 0.5 cm, strap turn there is a seam on the edge, the second end of the strap bends 1 cm and prostrachivajut to the edge of the car.
Belt, stitched through the sides, sew to waist of shorts. Belt face is applied to the underside of the panties at the waist, sew, turn, there is a seam on the rib, the lower end of belt to buckle 1 cm and prostrachivajut to the edge of the car. Cutout for feet process piping there is cut bias binding of width 2.5 - 3 cm, bake the face is applied to the underside of the cutout for the legs, sew, bake turn out there, the seam on the rib, the second end bakey bends so that its width in finished form was 1 - 1.5 cm and prostrachivajut to the edge of the car.The seam on the edge, as a rule, it is necessary to tack, to avoid bias, and then primitivity the second edge. Loop on the strap front halves of pant prometia, horizontal; buttons on the placket back half.
For strength through the waist to make the engine line. As for durability between the legs, you can sew a lining which must necessarily be pokraina cut cutout for the legs (strip sewn on the underside, in the region, before processing the cut-out for leg piping). Sew a strip on the front side is not recommended.
Optional briefs can be decorated with a zone of piping of a material of a different color or edging the color of the borders and belt. For Kant cut off the bias tape width 1.5 cm, fold in half, primetyvajut to the ACC belt and the borders and sew on the machine along with the waistband and leg.