JACKET FOR BOYS

Size 34
Measurements:
the length of the jacket.................... 50 cm
back length to waist...... 30 cm
shoulder length . . . . . . . . . . .10,5 cm
neck circumference ............... 15 cm
the circumference of the chest.............. 34 cm
the circumference of the armhole........... 30 cm
sleeve length.................... 45 cm

Build back. Fig. 76

Take the plan line AB is 16 cm, calculate 1/2 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 30: 2+ 1 = 16 cm.
From points And drop a vertical line 50 cm-length of the product.
From point A down to 1 cm from point A on the line of the right delay 5 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 30: b=5 cm.
Point 1 and point 5 combine by hand a concave line and get neck back. From point B down to 4.5 cm (bevel shoulder backless for all sizes). Through point 5 and point 4,5 hold a straight line and it pushes the shoulder length plus 0.5 cm at planting at the rate of: shoulder length 10,5 + 0,5 = 11 cm.
From a 4.5 point drop dashed vertical line 13 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 3 cm (for all sizes): the circumference of the openings 30 is: 3+3=13 cm
Through the point 13 (armhole) draw a horizontal line of the chest 17 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest: the chest circumference 68: 4=17 cm
From point 13 to the dotted line rises by 2 cm, the distance from point 2 to point 4,5 divide in half. From the dividing point to the left at a right angle lay off 1 cm from the point 1 to the left the dotted line the width of the back. Concave line from the hand combine point to 4.5 through the point 1, point 2 with point 17 and get the armhole of the back.
From the 17 point drop a vertical line to the bottom of the jacket and connected to the point 50. The resulting angle is denoted by the point D. From point D lay off to the right 3 cm, from a point 3 rise to 1 see Point 1 connected by straight line with point 17 (line sides for enhanced baby coat for children three to five years or for the extended jacket).
From point 1 (point A) are lowered vertically by 30 cm (length to waist), from point 30 to the right draw a horizontal waist line and label it point T.
From the point T to the left waist-delayed 2 cm, point 2 connected straight lines with the point 17 and the point D.
From a point 30 right waist-delayed 6 cm from point 6 are holding up the dotted line so that it won't reach the chest at 3 cm From a point 6 is lowered to the dotted line 7 cm From the point 6 to the right and left delay to 1 cm (the depth of the tuck). Then, straight lines connecting point 3 with point 1 and point 1; point 7 point 1 and point 1.
Line 1 50 is the middle of the back, cut out the common thread. The middle of the back may have crease or material to be stitched.

Build shelves. Fig. 77

Take the plan line AB is 16 cm, calculate 1/2 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 30: 2+1=16 cm.
From points And drop a vertical line from 52 cm calculate the length of the back, plus 2 cm for shelves: back length 50+2=52 see
From point A to the left of the line plan delayed 5 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 30: 6= 5 cm.
From point B down to 2.5 cm (bevel shoulder backless for all sizes). Point 2.5 and 5 connected by a straight line and get the shoulder shelves 10.5 cm.
From the point of 2.5 drop dashed vertical line 13 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 3 cm: the circumference of the openings 30 is: 3 +3= 13 cm
The line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 1 cm from point 1 the dotted line the width of the chest.
Through the point 13 (the line of the armscye length) draw a horizontal line of the chest 22 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 5 cm free customized fit for every size; circumference of chest, 68: 4+ 5 = 22 cm
The line of the chest from point 13 to point 22, divide in half, from the points of division drop 1.5 cm Concave line from the hands of the connected point of 2.5 (shoulder) through the point 1, point 13, point 1.5 point 22 and get the armhole shelves.
From the 22 point drop a vertical line of the sides equal to the length of the sides of the backrest (the length of the side shelves are equal to the length of the sides of the back, in the drawing marked with three dashes) and put the point D. Then from point 22 through the side pushes the length back to the waist (the distance from point 17 to point T in the drawing marked by two lines) and put the point T. From the point T to the right, draw dotted line horizontal line and put the point T1, from point T1 drops 2 see
Free line hand hold the waist from point 2 to point T.
From the point D to the left delay 3 see Point 22 and point 3 connected by a straight line and lay off on it the length of the extended sides of the back (distance from point 17 to point 1). Point 3 connect hand free from 52.
From T point to the right waist-delayed 2 cm, point 2 connected by straight lines from point 22 and point D.
To set the Darts in place, it is necessary from the point 13 (armhole) down 3 cm From point 3 we omit the dotted line parallel to the line And 52 so that this line was below the waist on the 7 see the intersection of the lines of dashes and the waist is indicated by point T3. From the point T3 to the right and left waist-delayed by 1 cm by Straight lines connecting point 3 with point 1 and point 1; point 7 point 1 and point 1.
Through the point 7 (bottom tuck) draw a horizontal line slit pocket to the left of points 7 by 4 cm, to the right by 6 cm (the cut of the pocket is equal to 10 cm); if the invoice pocket, slit to do. The cut of the pocket is processed by the feature "leaf" (Fig. 159).
From point A on a vertical drop of 6 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 30: 6+ 1 = b, see
Point 5 on the line plan of a concave line from the hands connected with the point 6 and get the neck shelves. From the point 6 to the right, draw dotted line horizontal line 4 cm from point 4 rise to 1.5 cm; a 1.5 point connecting curved line with dot 6.
From the point 52 to the right conduct 4 cm, a point 1.5 and point 4 being joined by a straight line.
The cut of the loop is equal to the diameter of the buttons. The distance between loops at will, or cut in a magazine, but one of the buttons must be on the waist line. In children's products, the distance of the loops from each other must not exceed 10 cm Loop on the jacket prometia.

The construction of the sleeve. Fig. 78

Take a line of 30 cm calculate the circumference of the openings and build the rectangle ABC with a size of 30 cm to 45 cm, where 45 cm - sleeve length.
From point A on a vertical drop by 10 C from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole: the armhole circumference 30 : 3 = 10 cm
From the points 10 to the right draw a horizontal line to the line BG and denoted by the point P.
Line plan of divide AB into six equal parts and the points of division denoted by the points A1, A2, AZ, A4, A5. From each point of division omit vertical lines at 10P a line. The intersection of the vertical line from point A4 10P line denotes the point P1, the intersection of the vertical line from point A5 with line 10P denoted by point P2.
From A vertical fall to 6.5 cm, from a point A1 to 1.5 cm, the point A2 is the high point of the head sleeve. From the point A3 are lowered by 2 cm, the distance L1 L2, divide in half, the dividing point falls at 0.5 cm from point B vertically by 6.5 cm
When all the points are placed, hand-drawn head sleeve: lead the line from left to right from the point of 6.5 through the point 1.5 to the highest point A2, point 2, point P1, point 0,5 point P2 to the point of 6.5.
From point B down to 26 cm (sleeve length to the elbow) and from the point 26 to the left draw a horizontal line.
From a point In the right and dot G to the left delayed by 4 cm, point 4 of the left half of the join sleeve with a direct point of 6.5, point 4 of the right half of the sleeves with a point 26.
From the point A4 omit the dotted line on the VG line and denoted by the point D. From point D on the dotted line rise to 2 see Point 2 connected by straight lines to points 4 the bottom of the sleeves.
Sleeve built on the principle of double seam of the sleeve, but it has one seam. The seam is placed on the elbow.

The construction of the collar. Fig. 79

Take line plan 15 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference: neck circumference 30:2=15 cm.
Build a rectangle 19 cm by 9 cm, 9 cm - width of collar.
From point B down to 2 cm From the point A to the right of the line plan delayed 5 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 30 : 6=5 cm
Point 5 and point 2 connected by a straight line.
From b rises by 1 cm, from the point G lay off to the right 3 see Point 3 connected straight lines with the point 1 and point 2.
Line A1 is the midpoint of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Building a fold-over collar. Fig. 80

Take line plan 15.5 cm at the rate of 1.2 of the circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm: neck circumference 30: 2+0,5=15.5 cm.
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 15.5 cm by 8 cm where 8 cm is the width of the collar.
From a point raised by 3 cm, point 3 connect free concave line with the point G. From point B down to 2 cm, from point 2 to the right, draw dotted line horizontal line 5 cm (the size of mysyk for collars of all sizes). Point 5 connected by a straight line with point G.
From point A rise to 2 see Point 2 through point B connecting concave line 5.
The middle of the collar from point 3 to point 2 has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut to allow for seams jacket to sew from wool, wool blend and cotton fabrics, unlined and lined. Coverstitch sewn seam. Podborny otkrivaetsa in cut and sewn according to the rules.
The jacket sleeves are usually made without cuffs or primatyvajutsja straps. For this sleeve bottom zauzhivaetsya. If the sleeve on the cuff, to make narrower the bottom of the sleeve should not. The cuff is made of any width and is sewn according to the rules of the processing sleeve to the cuff.
The width of the belt at the waist line should not exceed 5 cm

jacket with a SHAPED YOKE

The jacket can be smooth or shaped on the belt. If the yoke is flat, then you should make a section along the line widths of the back and width of chest. Each item is cut individually with the addition of 3 to 4 cm along the section line to the ACC. Smooth yoke bowed his material, adding when you cut on the seam. Flirty nastraivatsa top margins from the edge of the crease coquette by 0.25 - 1 cm line in the edge or two lines-like finish.
If the yoke has the form of angles, the pattern is applied to the line style.

The construction of the back. Fig.82

The line width of the spins divide into two equal parts. From the point of division is down right angle down to 4 - 5 cm Point -1
connect the straight dashed line with points, sh and SH1. Each dotted line, divide in half, from the dots of dividing up right angles delayed by 1 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 4 point 1 point III and point 4 point 1 point SH1.
From point 4 drop a vertical line to waist line (cut for folds). The waist line of the back cutting.

Build shelves. Fig. 83

The line width of the breast divide in half, from the dividing point downwards at a right angle delay of 4 - 5 cm, point 4 connect the straight dashed lines with points of sh and SH1. Each dotted line, divide in half, from the points upwards at a right angle delayed by 1 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 4 point 1 point III and point 4 point 1 point SH1.
From point 4 drop a vertical line to waist line (cut on fold). The waist line has a slit from the side to cut lines in the crease.

In the layout pattern in the material (Fig. 84) the cut part of the pattern should extend to the depth of the pleats. Pleats can be inverted and one-sided, the depth of the folds 4 to 8 cm Yoke should be cut out separately with addition of the seams on the rules of summation to split lines. Coquette can be hemmed his ACC or Podkayne. The top of the side panels to cut in a straight line. If the jacket will redraw from the old material, instead of folds you can make a raised bridging the seams (seams are sewn together, smooth on two sides and on the front side of thread in the color of the product make line).