JACKET COAT CASUAL FOR GIRLS

Size 36
Measurements:
length coat................... 75 cm
shoulder length.................... 11 cm
the circumference of the chest............ 36 cm
neck circumference............... 15 cm
the circumference of the armhole.......... 27 cm
sleeve length................... 51 cm
sleeve length to elbow..... 30 cm

Building back. Fig. 99

Take the plan line AB is 16 cm, calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus the 11 cm length of arm: neck circumference 30: 6+11=16 cm.
From points And drop a vertical line 75 cm-length of the product.
From point A to the left of the line plan delayed 6 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 30: 6+1=6 see
From point 6 are raised 1.5 cm From the hand of a concave line from a point 1.5 K point And the plotted neck backless.
From point A delay of 18 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 6 cm: chest circumference 72: 6+6=18 cm
From the point 18 to the left draw a horizontal line chest 19 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm (for all sizes for loose fit): chest circumference 72: 4 + 1 = 19 cm
From point 19 to rise 1 cm
From point B down to 2 cm (bevel shoulder backless for all sizes). Point 2 and point a 1.5 connected by a straight line and get the shoulder of the back 12 cm calculate the length of the shoulder plus 1 cm on the landing shoulder 11+ 1 = 12 cm.
From point 2 we omit the dotted vertical line to the bust line and denoted by the point G. From point G on the line of the dotted line rises by 5 cm Dotted lines divide the angle G in half and put it on her 2.5 cm Concave line from the hand connecting point 12 through point 5, point 2.5 point 1 and get the armhole of the back.
From point 1 we omit the vertical line and connect with the bottom of the product, point 75.
From point A on a vertical drop on a 32 cm (length to taliyu, from point 32 to the left, hold the waist line and denotes the point T. From the point T to the left-delayed 2 cm and Then by a straight line connecting a point 1 (armhole), with point 2, continue straight to the bottom of the product and is connected to the point 75. The resulting angle is denoted by the point D. From point D rises on 1,5 cm 1,5 point of the free line, no connect with the middle of the bottom of the product.
From point A and from point 75 to the right, draw a horizontal line 7 cm (the width of the folds on the back). Point 7 and point 7 connected with a straight line.

Build shelves. Fig. 100

Take the line plan, is 20 cm, calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus the 11 cm length of shoulder, plus 4 cm for the tuck (for all sizes): neck circumference 30: b+11+4=20 cm.
From points And drop a vertical line 78 cm based on length 75 cm plus 3 cm for the front.
From point A to the right of the line plan delayed 6 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 30: b =1 6 see
From point b lay off up to 3 cm (for all sizes).
From point A on a vertical fall by 5 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 30: 6=5 cm.
Concave line from the hand connecting point 3 point 6 point 5 and get the neck shelves.
From point A vertically lowered to 18 cm from calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 6 cm: chest circumference 72: 6+ 6 = 18 cm
From the point 18 to the right draw a horizontal line of the chest 27 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 9 cm: chest circumference 72: 4+9=27 see
From the point 27 to the left on the chest line-delayed 9 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole: the armhole circumference 27: 3=9 see
From point 9 raised by the dotted vertical line to the line of the plan and denoted by the point B, from point B down the line of the dotted line-delayed 2 cm (bevel shoulder shelves for all sizes) . Point 3 (neck) joined by a straight line with point 2 so that the line went over the point 2 to the right and put it on her shoulder the size of 15 cm calculate the length of the shoulder 11 cm plus 4 cm for the tuck: shoulder 11+4=15 cm.
From the point 18 to the right of the chest line-delayed 7 cm (standard). From point 7 rise 2 cm From point 3 on the shoulder-delayed 3 cm from point 3 delay right 4 cm (the depth of the tuck). Then, straight lines connecting point 2 to point 3, point 2 and point 4 and get a tuck.
From point 9 up the line of the dotted line-delayed 4 cm (for all sizes) .
On the dotted line, which divide the angle 9 in half, put 2 cm Line from point 27 to point 9, divide in half.
From a point 27 up put off 1 cm From the hand of the concave line drawn armhole shelves coat, connecting point 15 point 4, point 2, point division 1 point.
From point 1 we omit the vertical line equal to the length of the sides of the back to the waist line (from point 1 to point T, in the drawing marked by two lines). The length of the sides of the shelves are denoted by the point T. From the point T to the left draw dotted line horizontal line to the line the middle shelves and denoted by the point T1. From point T1 delay down 3 cm and Then from the hands-free line connecting point 3 and a point T and get the waist line shelves.
From T point to the right delay 2 see Then from point 1 through point 2 hold a straight line and lay off on it the value of the sides of the front equal to the length of the sides of the backrest (from point 1 to point of 1.5, the figure is marked with three dashes), and note its point D.
Point D mated free from 78.
From points 5 and 78 to the left draw a horizontal line 4 cm (width side), point 4 connected straight lines.
Loops are proposed at a distance of 9 cm from each other, the cut of the loop is equal to the diameter of the buttons.
Coat pocket can be overlaid or split. Place the pocket in the children's coat is determined by fitting.
In most cases, the pocket located below the waist on a 9 10 see

the Construction of the double seam of the sleeve. Fig. 101

Take the plan line AB is 20 cm, calculate the circumference of the armhole 27 cm -7 cm: the circumference of the openings 27 - 7=20 cm or at the rate of 1/b the circumference of the chest plus 8 cm: chest circumference 72: 6+8 = 20 cm
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 20 cm by 51 cm, 51 cm - sleeve length.
From A vertical drop at 14 cm from calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 2 inches: chest circumference 72: 6+2=14 cm.
From the point 14 to the right draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line of BG and denoted by the point D. the Line AB plan, divide in half, from the dividing point to the right and to the left of the line plan delayed by 2 cm Line from point B to point D, divide into three equal parts and the lower point of division connected straight dotted line from the right point 2 on the line from point 2 falls on the line of the dotted line 5 cm from the point 5 to the right at a right angle delay 1 see
From a point 14 upward delayed 3 cm, point 3 connect a straight dotted line from the left point 2 on the line from point 2 on the dotted line lowered to 5 cm from the point 5 to the left at a right angle delay 1 see
From the point 14 to the left delay 3 see When all the points are placed, hand-drawn head of the upper half of the sleeve line are from left to right from point 3 through point 3, point 1, point 2, point dividing the line plan, point 2, point 1 to the low point dividing the line DB.
From a point In the left draw a horizontal line 3 cm, point 3 connect a straight line with a point 3 lines 14D. From point B down the vertical delay of 30 cm (sleeve length to the elbow), from the point 30 to the left draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line 3 3 and we denote it by the point L. From point L to the right of the elbow-delayed 1 cm point 1 paired with point 3, the top and bottom. From a point In the right hem sleeves-delayed 3 cm, from point 3 to the right delay 12 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest: the chest circumference 72: 6=12 cm.
From point 12 down to 3 cm, point 3 connected by a straight line with point 3. From the point 30 to the left through the elbow delay of 1 cm Line from the hand connecting the bottom point dividing the line DB through the point D, point 1 with point 3.
Find one in the lower half of the sleeves.
From the point 14 to the right along a horizontal line-delayed 3 cm, point 3 connected by a straight line with point 3 of the bottom and the point of intersection with the line L denotes the point L1. From the point L1 to the right postpone 1 cm point 1 paired with point 3. From point 1 to the right on a horizontal line-delayed 13 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm the chest circumference 72: 6+1=13 see
From the lowest point of the dividing line of the database hold the left dotted line is 5 cm, point 5 connected straight dotted line from point 3, the dotted lines divide in half, from the dividing point downwards at a right angle lay off 1.5 cm When all the points are placed, draw the lower half of sleeves: hand-concave line connecting point 5 through point 1.5 point 3. Then from the hand lead line from point 5 through point 13 to point 3 of the bottom of the sleeves.

The construction of the collar. Fig. 102

Take line plan 24 cm from calculation 1/2 of the circumference of the neck plus 9 cm: neck circumference 30: 2+9=24 cm
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 24 cm by 13 cm, 13 cm - the width of the collar.
From point A on a vertical fall by 5 cm From point A to the right of the line plan delayed 17 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 2 cm (for all sizes): neck circumference 30: 2+2=17 see
Point 5 and point 17 connected straight dotted line, divide the line in half. From the dividing point downwards at a right angle delay 1 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 17 through the point 1 with point 5.
From point B down to 6 cm, from a point 6 by 4 cm and Then by a straight line connecting the point 17 and point 6. From point 6 through point 4 to point To store the empty line by hand.
Line 5B is the middle of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut to follow the rules and cut rules of addition at the joints (Fig. 13). Every part of the coat should be cut in half.
When you cut the sleeve it is necessary to have two patterns: top and bottom halves, cut each half separately.
Podborny coat otkrivaetsa to cut, width of podboranky on the shoulder from the neck at least 4 cm from the middle of the front of the shelves and bottom of not less than 3 cm.
The lining to the coat otkrivaetsa the pattern.
Lining the shelves cut out, less the width of podportila.
Sewn coat according to the rules of sewing products with a study of podportila and double seam hose.
Crease in the middle of the back may be a counter or stacked in one direction. Zastrahovatsja fold to the length you want or a style in a magazine. You can cut a coat without adding in the crease, then the middle of the back of the pattern placed on the fold of the material. In the middle of the back may be a seam.

DEMI-SEASON COAT FOR BOYS

Size 40
Measurements:
length coat........... 95 cm
length to waist........ 36 cm
shoulder length . . . . . . 13 cm
the circumference of the chest.... 40 cm
neck circumference....... 17 cm
sleeve length.......... 54 cm

Build back. Fig. 103

Take the plan line AB, equal to 19 cm, at the rate of 1/2 neck circumference plus 2 cm: neck circumference 34: 2+2= 19 cm
From points And drop a vertical line 95 cm-the length of the product.
From point A to the left of the line plan delayed 7cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1.5 cm: neck circumference 34: 6 = 5,6 (rounded to 5.5 ) 5,5+1,5= 7 cm.
From point 7 rise to 2.5 cm at the rate of: 7:3=2,3 (about 2.5 cm) .
From point A rise of 0.5 see Point 0.5 point 2.5 from the hands of the connected concave line and the plotted neck backless.
From point A on a vertical drop of 23.5 cm from calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 10 inches: circumference of the chest 80: 6 = 13,3 (about 13.5 cm) 13,5+10=23.5 cm
From the point of 23.5 to the left draw a horizontal line of the chest is equal to the line plan (AB = 19 cm), and denoted by the point G.
From point B down-delayed 2.5 cm (bevel shoulder backless for all sizes).
From the point of 2.5 (neck) to the point of 2.5 (slant shoulder) draw a straight line and on it lay off the length of the shoulder 14 cm calculate the length of the shoulder plus 1 cm to fit: the length of the shoulder 13+1=14 cm.
From the point of 2.5 drop dashed vertical line at point G. From point G up on the line of the dotted line-delayed 4 cm, the remaining part of the line from point 4 to point to 2.5, divide in half. From point 4 to the left lay off 1.5 cm From the hand lead line from point 14 via point of division to the point of 1.5.
From a 1.5 point drop a vertical line parallel to the middle of the backrest and is connected to the point 95. The angle denoted by the point D.
From a point 0,5 vertically lowered to 38 cm calculate the length to the waist plus 2 cm for a fall waist: back length to waist 36+2=38 cm.
From the point 38 to the left draw a horizontal waist line and denotes the point T. From the point T to the right waist-delayed 1,5 cm, 1,5 point connected with point 1.5 (openings). From the point 38 to the left on the waist line-delayed and Then 1.5 cm from a point 0,5 point lead 1,5 straight line to the bottom of the product and put the point D. Line D Of 0.5 is the middle of the back coat and is specifically made for the equity.
From point 38 is vertically lowered to 17 cm calculate the length of the thigh. The length of the hips is calculated from 1/2 lengths back to the waist minus 1 cm in length backless to waist is 36: 2 - 1=17 cm
From the point 17 to the left draw a horizontal line of the hips and denoted by the point B. From a point 1.5 m (waist line) through the point To hold a straight line to the bottom of the product. The resulting angle is denoted by D2. From the point D2 rise to 1.5 cm a 1.5 Point connect free line with the middle of the bottom of the product.

Build shelves. Fig. 104

Take the plan line AB, equal to 19 cm, at the rate of 1/2 neck circumference plus 2 cm (for all sizes): neck circumference 34:2+2=19 cm
The value of the plan can be checked by calculation of 1/4 of the circumference of the chest minus 1 cm chest circumference 80: 4 - 1 = 19 cm
From points And drop a vertical line 99 cm calculate the length of the back plus 4 cm on the length of the shelves (for all sizes): product length on the back 95+4=99, see
From point A to the right of the line plan delayed 10 cm (for all sizes), from a point 10 rise 1 cm
From point 1 we omit the dashed vertical line 8 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference plus 2.5 cm: neck circumference 34: 6 = 5,6 (about 5.5 cm) 5,5+2,5=8 cm.
From the point 8 to the left hold the dotted horizontal line so that it did not reach the vertical line at 1.5 cm Line is marked 8 cm divide in half, and the point dividing the join of the straight dotted line with a point of 1.5.
From a point 1.5 lines right of the dotted line-delayed 5 cm From point 5 up at a right angle delay of 0.5 see Point 0.5 and a 1.5 point connected by a straight line, then from the point of 0.5 at a right angle hold down a line of 4 cm (the length of the tuck).
From point 5 to the right of the dotted line-delayed (1 cm depth tuck) and point 1 connected by straight line with point 4. Concave line from the hand combine point 1 with point 1 of the shoulder.
From point B down to 2 cm (bevel shoulder shelves for all sizes)
From point 1 through point 2 hold a straight line and lay off on it the length of the shoulder 13 cm.
From point A down the vertical delay 23.5 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the chest plus 10 inches: circumference of the chest 80:6=13,6 (about 13.5 cm) 13,5+ 10 = 23.5 cm
Point 23,5 straight line connecting with point 1.5 (neck). From the point of 23.5 to the right draw a horizontal line of the chest 32 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 12 cm free customized fit for all sizes: circumference of the chest 80: 4+12=32 cm.
From point 2 (slant shoulder) drop dashed vertical line to the bust line and denoted by the point G. From point G up on the line of the dotted line rises 4 cm, point 4 connect the straight dashed line with point 13 (shoulder length), line divide in half, from the dividing point to the left at a right angle delay 1 see
From a point G right along the chest line delay 5 cm (for all sizes) . On the dotted line that divides the angle in half G measured 1.5 cm From point 32 to rise at 4 cm When all the points are placed, a concave line from the hand connecting point 13 through point 1, point 4, point 1.5, the point 5 and point 4 and get the armhole shelves. The length of the side shelves installed along the length of the sides of the back.
From point 4 drop a vertical line equal to the length of the sides of the backrest (from a point 1.5 to T point, in the drawing marked by two lines) and put the point T. From the point T to the left draw dotted line horizontal line to the line of mid front and denotes the point T1. From point T1 drops 2 cm From the T point to the right delay 1.5 cm Then the point 1.5 and point 2 of the connected hand-free line and get the waist line shelves.
From point 4 through point and 1.5 hold a straight line and lay off on it the length of the sides of the shelves, equal to the length of the sides of the backrest (from a point of 1.5 on the line of openings through the point of 1.5 at the waist to a point 1.5 bottom, in the drawing designated with three dashes) .
The point of the length of the sides by hand, combine free from 99.
From point 99 to the left draw a horizontal line 10 cm From a point 1.5 (neck) left draw dotted line horizontal line 10 cm From a point 10 rise of 4 cm from point 4 to the right at a right angle lay off 2 cm, point 2 connected by a straight line with a 1.5 point (neck). Then from point 2 to point 10 rounds from the hand corner. Point 10 connected by a straight line with point 10 of the bottom. 10 cm added to the Board as double-breasted coat, single-breasted, the width of the sides equal to 4 - 5 cm.
From point 5 (the chest) drop dashed vertical line below the waist 10 cm. the Point of intersection of the waist line and the dotted line denoted by the point B. From a point In the right and left waist-delayed, 1,5 cm (depth tuck 3 cm). From point 5 to 7 cm down From point 10 up delayed 1 see Straight lines connect points of the 1.5 point 7 point 1 and get a tuck.
Through the point 10 draw a horizontal line to the right 4 cm, left - 10, see the line is a slit pocket that is processed by the feature "leaf" (Fig. 159).

The construction of the sleeve. Fig. 105

Take line plan 24 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 4 cm for all sizes: circumference of the chest 80: 4+4 24 see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 24 cm by 54 cm, 54 cm - sleeve length.
From point B vertically lowered to 18 cm from the calculation of 1/2 line plan plus 6 cm; line plan 24:2+6=18 cm
From the point 18 to the left draw a horizontal line and label it point D. the Line plan AB divide in half. From point B down the vertical delay 6 see Point 6 connect the dotted line with the point of division of the plan, the dotted line divide in half, from the point of division up at the right angle delay 1 see
From point D on the vertical rise of 4 cm., point 4 connect the dotted line with the point of division of the plan, the dotted lines divide in half, from the dividing point to the left at a right angle lay off 2 see
From the point D to the left delayed 3.5 cm
When all the points are placed, hand-drawn head of the upper halves of sleeve: left to right are a line from point a 3.5 point 4 point 2 point division plan, point 1 to point 6.
A vertical line from point 6 to point G divide in half, and denoted by the point L.
From point L to the left draw a horizontal line and put the point L1. From the point L1 to the left delay 2 see
From a point In the vertical rise of 3 cm from point 3 to the left delayed 3.5 cm Concave line from the arm connecting point of the 3.5 (openings) through the point 2 with point of 3.5 (bottom sleeve).
From point 3 draw the line to the intersection of the line VG, so that it was equal to 16 cm (for all sizes). Point 16 connecting the straight dotted line from point L, the dotted lines divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm
From the point 18 to the right at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm, then a concave line from the hand connecting point 6 through point 0.5 point L through point 0.5 point 16.
The lower half of the sleeve is based on the top. From the point 6 to the left draw dotted line horizontal line 4 cm., point 4 connect the straight dotted line from point L, the line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm, Then a concave line from the hand connecting point 4 point 0.5 point L. the Upper and lower halves of the sleeve from point L to point 16 have one line.
From the point D to the right horizontal delay 3 cm from point 3 rise 1 cm From point 3 to the right horizontal delay 5 cm, point 5 connected straight dotted line with point 4, the line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle delay 1 see
Concave line hand lead line from point 4 through point 1, point 5 to point 1 and draw the head of the lower halves of the sleeves.
From the point L1 to the right of the elbow-delayed 3.5 cm From point 3 (bottom sleeve) through the line 16 to the right delay 2 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 3 (openings) through the point 3.5 point 2 (bottom of sleeve).
Collar jacket coat for boys is based on the drawing of the collar autumn coat for girls (Fig. 102).

Cutting and tailoring

When designing drawing coat measurements be sure to remove the rules.
The back coat can be done with a fold, for this when you cut it is necessary to allow for the width of the folds, or puckered at the waist with snap-tab Pockets can be patch or Welt, sleeves with snap-tab.
Rules podkraj and terminations of podportila by the rules.
Lining otkrivaetsa the pattern, lining the shelves cut out, less the width of podportila.
Draw coats for boys of preschool age is made on the same calculation, but given the fact that it should be more free. This side of back no need pritalen, and from the point G to the left take 2 cm and rascaeti side of the back. The side tuck on the shelf should not be close.
Coat sewn by the same rules as for boys students.