The robe is made of plain fabric or a pattern, cut at the waist, closure 4 buttons (Fig. 26 a). The shelf with the undercut below the breast line and Assembly. Back straight. Flared skirt with seam at the back of the cloth. Long sleeve with cuffs or rolled cuffs.
Collar - shift of the season. Pocket invoice.
Style developed on the pattern of the basic drawing dresses.
Drawing style lines on the pattern
Back panel. The back of the bodice cut at the waist (Fig. 26 b). To obtain a flared skirt strike a cut line from the end of the pulley-block darting to the bottom. For the second line cut waist line from tuck up to the side of the cut divide in half and from the points of division down drawing a line parallel to the first.
The front panel. From the depth of the neck down put 4 see Point 4 connect with the top of the neck and continue the line on the width of the neck of the sprout, that is, 8 see point 8 at a right angle to a line drawn to the right aside the width of the collar, that is 9 cm from point 9 to the left - 1 cm depth of the neck, divide in half, then from the dividing point to the right set aside 9 cm and from point 4 to the right 6 inches of the depth of the neck down put 15 cm, and from point 15 to the right - 7 - 8 see
By the middle of the front cloth added allowances for politicos: hem - 10 - 12 cm, waist - 8 - 9 see Point 1, 9, 7 - 8, 8 - 9, 10 - 12 connect as shown in figure 26 V.
The ends of the shoulder and of tackle Darts connect. Lateral cut to the depth of the armholes to the waist line divide it in half, and a point dividing the join with the end of the pulley-block Darts.
A line cut of the bodice extends across the waist.
Pocket. From the waist on the first line tuck put down 7 cm from the point 7 to the left - the width of the pocket 16 cm and from point 7 down 1 see Point 1 connect to point 16 (line pockets). The length of the pocket 17 see the corners of the pocket will scrugli.
Pattern pieces will be numbered and indicate the direction of grain lines.
Obtaining the modified pattern and cutting
For applying lines of the pattern cut.
Back. The middle pattern of the back attach to the fold of the fabric and make some. The backrest can be bridging. In this case, the middle pattern backless put on the fabric, stepping back from the edge 2 - 3 cm (Fig. 27 a).
Shelf. On the put line make a cut from the side of the cut by the end of the shoulder tuck, leaving 0.5 cm of the Shoulder of tackle and Darts closed, whereby side cut turns out the stock for an Assembly (Fig. 27 b). To increase the Assembly to the side cut add 2 - 3 cm to cut out 2 parts. In Fig. 26 b shows podkraj touches the upper collar.
The top collar. Podtraivaet collar lower collar along with podborta. If the fabric is not enough, you can datacat at two locations 2 cm below the first loop.
The rear panel of the skirt (Fig. 27). For applying lines from the bottom to the end tucks and the waist line make the cuts, tuck closing. Then part of the pattern sliding on the bottom of the 15 - 17 cm (optional). To cut out two wedges.
The front panel of the skirt (Fig. 27 g) cut the same as the rear and sliding part of it depending on the width of the fabric. To cut out the two parts.
Pocket to cut out on the pattern. It can be lined in a main or lining fabric you need to cut out the shape of the pocket. For processing the upper edge podtraivaet obtachku a width of 3 to 4, see the sections pockets make allowance of 0.7 - 1 cm
Cuff podtraivaet in the form of a bottom sleeve with a width of 10 - 12 cm.
Cuffs, pocket and collar are finished with braid or binding of other tissue (tone colors), and otkroite of fabric finishing.
Tailoring one-piece collar. Sativum and grind the lower collar in the middle, the seam razotajiem.
The middle of the collar pin to the middle of Rostock. Sativum shoulder seams and collar at the same time in Rostock. In the corner of the shoulder sections and the collar make cuttings. Then grind off the shoulder of the left shelves to the collar in nadechka the gap width 0,2 - 0,3 cm Shoulder seams zavturove in the back side, and the seam of the collar side of the collar.
If podborta is natachka, protecive it to podborta. Seam stitching should pass below the first loop on the 2 3 see the Seams razotajiem. Grind the top collar in the middle, the seam razotajiem. Sativum upper collar with the lower collar on the grind unfastened the parts from the bottom of the shelf and the lower collar. Razotajiem the seam, turn the collar on the front side, straighten the seam, releasing the chute from the upper collar to the first loop, then from the shelves by 0.1 - 0.2 seeLower section of the upper collar bends from the inside by 0.5 cm and filed by hand, covering the seam of the collar primaqiune to sprout.
Sprout from cut bends from the inside by 0.5 cm, filed on seam width of 0.1 - 0.2 cm, then attach in several places. You can continue finishing the stitch on the front side of the upper collar.
|