BASIC BLOUSE WITH TUCK AT THE SHOULDER

Size 48
Measurements:
back length to waist............................................. 38 cm
front length 50 cm minus 1/6 of the circumference of the neck ........ 44 cm
shoulder length . . .. . . . . . . . ...................................... 14 cm
neck circumference....................................................... 18 cm
the circumference of the chest.................................................... 48 cm
the circumference of the armhole.................................................. 39 cm
sleeve length . . . . . . . . . . ...................................... 60 cm

The construction of the back. Fig. 112

Take a straight angle A. From the point A to the right of the line plan delayed 20 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 2 cm for all sizes for free turning of the shoulders: neck circumference 36: 2+ 2 = 20 cm.
From A vertical drop at 39.5 cm from the calculation of the length of the back to waist is 38 cm plus 1.5 cm: back length to waist 38+ 1,5 = 39,5 cm
From point A on a vertical drop of 1.5 cm From the point A to the right of the line plan delayed 6 cm from a calculation of 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 36: 6 = 6 cm.
Point 6 and point 1,5 combine free concave line, and get the neck back.
From a point 20 at a right angle down to 4.5 cm (bevel shoulder backless for all sizes), point 4,5 connected by a straight line with point 6 and get a 15 cm shoulder (shoulder 14 cm, plus 1 cm on the landing).
From a 4.5 point drop dashed vertical line 17 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 4 inches: the circumference of the openings 39 is: 3+4=17 cm
Through the point 17 (armholes) draw a horizontal line of the chest 22 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest minus 2 cm (2 cm removed from the back required for all sizes): bust 96: 4 - 2 = 22 cm,
From point 22 at a right angle drop a vertical line to the bottom of the product and combine it with the point of 39.5. The resulting angle is denoted as point T.
From point 17 on the line of the dotted line rises 2.5 cm, the distance between a point 2.5 to a 4.5-point divide in half. From the dividing point to the left at a right angle delay 1 see
When the points are placed, a concave line from the hand combine point to 4.5 through the point 1, point 2.5 point 22 and drawn armhole of the back. Line side from a point 22 to the point T is marked by two dashes.

Build shelves. Fig. 113

Take a straight angle A. From point A the left on line plan-delayed 27 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 2 cm for the free turning of the shoulders and neck circumference 36: 2+2+7=27 cm
From point A on a vertical drop of 44 cm calculate the length of the front 50 cm minus 1/6 of the circumference of the neck (clean front length from high point): length 50 - 36: 6=44 cm.
From point A on the line of the left delay 7cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 36: 6+ 1 = 7, see
From point A on a vertical fall of 8 cm is based 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm: neck circumference 36: 6 + 2 = 8 cm.
Point 7 and point 8 connect the straight dashed line, dotted line, divide in half, from point A through the point of division the dotted line and put it on her 7.5 cm from calculation 1/2 the amount of points: point 7 + point 8 = 15 see 15:2 = 7.5 cm.
Concave line from the hand from point 7 through point of 7.5 to 8 point plotted neck shelves.
From point 7 (plan) to the left of the line plan delayed 4 cm (for all sizes), from point 4 down to 0.5 see Point 0.5 point 7 connected by a straight line and get the shoulder part of the shelves.
From a point 0,5 drop dashed vertical line 20cm parallel to the middle of the front (length Darts for all sizes), from point 20 to the right at a right angle delay 1 see Point 1 and point 0,5 joined by a straight line. From point 4 (of the plan) to the left of the line plan delayed 7 cm (the depth of the tuck). Point 7 connected by a straight line with point 1 (the length of the tuck) and on this line lay off a length equal to the length of the first tuck (the tuck to the plan never comes). The height of the tuck-defined point B.
From the point 27 at a right angle falls to 7.5 cm from the calculation of the slant shoulder of the front 4 cm plus 1/2 tuck: tuck 7: 2 + 4 = 7.5 cm.
Point 7.5 and point In connecting a straight line and we get the second part of the shoulder shelves. From the point of 7.5 omit the line of the dotted line 16 cm, parallel to the inclined line of the tuck, at the rate of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 3 cm: the circumference of the openings 39 is: 3+ 3 = 16 cm
Through the point 16 (the length of the openings) draw a horizontal line of the chest 31 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm (taken from the back), plus 5 cm for loose fit: bust 96: 4+ 2+ 5 = 31 see
From a point 31 at a right angle to the chest line down length of the sides of the front equal to the length of the sides of the back from point 22 to point T (on the drawing marked with two dashes). The length of the sides of the front to note a point T. Point T connect hand free from 44 and get the waist line of the front.
From a point 16 up the line of the dotted line-delayed 2 cm (for all sizes) remaining distance from point 2 to point 7,5 divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 1.5 cm From the point 16 to the left on the chest line-delayed 2 cm, the distance from point 2 to point 31 divide in half, from the points of division,down right angle down to 1.5 cm.
When all the points are placed, by hand a concave line connecting the point 7,5 1,5 point, point 2, point 2, point 1.5 point 31.
The middle of the front and back of equity. If the middle of the front have a bend depends on the cut.
Blouse from the waist elongates for 5 - 10 cm depending on the style and material of which are sewn.

The construction of the sleeve. Fig. 114

Take line plan 39 cm of calculation of the circumference of the openings and build the rectangle ABC with a size of 39 cm to 60 cm, where 60 cm is the length of the sleeve.
From point A on a vertical drop of 13 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole: the armhole circumference 39: 3=13 cm
From point 13 to the right draw a horizontal line to the line BG and denoted by the point P. the Line AB divide the plan into six equal parts and the points of division denoted by the points A1, A2, A3, A4, A5; the point of intersection of the vertical line from the point A5 with the line 13P denotes the point A1.
From point A2 drop a vertical line to the intersection with the bottom of the sleeve and denoted by the point D. Then from the point A5 drop dashed vertical line to the line VG and the point of intersection is denoted by point D1.
From point A1 vertically down 8.5 cm from point A2 - 2.5 cm, point AZ designated point from the point A4 drops by 3 cm, the line PP1, divide in half, from the dividing point downwards at a right angle delay of 0.5 cm
When all the points are placed, a concave line from the hand connecting point 13 through point of 8.5, a point of 2.5,with a point in the core (highest point), through the point 3, point P1, point 0.5 point N and we get the head of the sleeve.
From a point In right line VG-delayed 2 cm, from a point 2 rises by 1 see Point 1 and point 13 connected by a straight line. This line is marked "to the back". From the point G to the left on the line VG-delayed 2 see point 2 rises by 1 see Point 1 connected by straight line with point P. This line is marked "to the front". From the point D1 on the dotted line rises at 2 cm Line from the hand from left to right connecting point 1 with point D, point 2, point 1 and plotted the cuff. The line going from the 2.5 to the point D (line elbow) is "equity".

The construction of the collar. Fig. 115

Take line plan 23 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 5 cm: neck circumference 36: 2+ 5 =23, see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 23 cm by 8 cm where 8 cm is the width of the collar.
From point A vertically down by 1 cm, point 1 connected by straight line with point B.
From the point G to the left of the vertical delay 5 cm, from a point 5 rises by 1 see Point 1 connected to point B by a straight line and the point 1 take the loose line by hand to the point of dividing line of VG. Line 1B is the middle of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out on equity.

The construction of the cuff. Fig. 116

Take line plan 25 cm from the calculation of arm circumference and build the rectangle ABC with a size of 25 cm by 6 cm, 6 cm - width cuff.
From point A to the left delay 3 cm, point 3 connected by a straight line with point B. From point B lay off the right 3 cm, point 3 connected by a straight line with the point G. the Line AB and the SH divide in half, the dividing point connected by a dotted line. From the point dividing the line AB rises by 3 cm, Then a concave line from the hand we connect the point 3 through point 3 with point 3. From the point dividing the line VG rises on the dotted line 1 cm Concave line from the hand combine point To point 1 with point G. the Dotted line from point 3 to point 1 referred to "equity".

SKIRT WITH ONE SEAM AND SIX DARTS. Fig. 117

In Fig. 117 given a drawing of straight cut skirt with a single seam. These skirts should be sew from fabric, width not less than 120 cm With patterns of single-joint sactivities skirt it is possible to build various models of skirts.
Measurements:
the length of the skirt on the side....... 70 cm
the circumference of their hips.......... 50 cm
waist circumference........... 38 cm
If the figure has a large deviation around the circumference of the hips, then you should measure the length of the skirt in the middle of the butt and the middle of the front.
Take line plan 52 cm from calculation 1/2 thigh circumference plus 2 cm to free oblecenie: circumference of hips 100: 2+2=52 see
Build a rectangle ТТ1ДД1 size 52 cm to 70 cm, and 70 cm= the length of the skirt.
From point 1 vertically down to the 19 cm length from the waist to the hips is determined from the length of the backrest to
waist divided in half: length backless to waist is 38:2 = 19 cm
From the point 19 to the right hold hips to the intersection with the line Т1Д1 and denoted by the point B.
From the point 19 to the right on the hip line-delayed 23 cm based 1/4 thigh circumference minus 2 cm (2 cm from the back removed necessarily in all sizes, as the side seam of the skirt moves closer to the back): circumference of hips 100: 4 - 2= 23 cm.
The distance from point 23 to point B is equal to 1/4 of the circumference of the hips plus 2, taken from the back, plus 2 cm to freedom: the circumference of their hips 100: 4+ 2+ 2 = 29 cm
Through the point 23 hold vertical line up to the line ТТ1 and set point T2, down to the line DD1 and put the point D2. The line denoted as "line side", the point of intersection of the line side and the hip line denotes the point B1. From a point B1 at the line of the side raised 2 cm From the point T2 to the right and to the left of the line plan delayed by 3.5 cm (depth side tuck 7 cm), point 2 is connected to a point 3.5 and point a 3.5 in straight lines and get the tuck.
From point T1 vertically lowered to 2 cm, point 2 connected by a straight line with the point of a 3.5 its part. From point T vertically lowered 1 cm and the point 1 connected by straight line with point 3.5 to his side.
The hips 23cm, divide in half, from the point of dividing up the dotted line to the inclined line and the point of intersection denotes the point T3. From the point dividing the line 23 rises 3 cm
From the point T3 to the right and left inclined line delay by 2 cm (the depth of the back Darts 4 cm) point 3 connect straight lines from point 2 and point 2.
Line 29 cm, divide in half, from the points of division the dotted line to the inclined line and the point of intersection denoted by T4. From the points of division lines 29 cm rise by 5 cm From point T4 to the right and left inclined line-delayed by 1.5 cm (depth front tuck 3 cm) point 5 connected straight lines with point 1.5 and point of 1.5.
From point 5 we omit the vertical line and label "seam" (one). The seam is placed on the left side of the front and goes into a tuck. The right side from point 2 to point D1 - the middle of the front, has a fold of material. The left vertical line from point 1 to point D is the middle of the back of the cloth, has a fold of material.
In order to build such a skirt according to other standards, it is necessary to calculate the Darts at the waist. The circumference of the hips, divide in half plus 2 cm, and from this number subtract 1/2 waist circumference: the circumference hips 100: 2+ 2=52 cm, waist circumference 76:2=38 cm 52 - 38=14 cm.
14 cm, divide in half and one half (7 cm) take a side tuck.
The remaining 7 cm is divided by the rear and front tuck to back tuck was more the front 1 cm (back tuck 4 cm and the front 3 cm).
Calculated as: 7 - 1= 6 cm.
6: 2= 3 cm Back tuck 3+ 1 =4, see

the SKIRT FLARE ON the BASIS of single-joint SACTIVITIES SKIRTS. Fig. 118

The full skirt extends down depending on the waist circumference and thigh circumference (less than the circumference of the waist relative to the hips, the flare will be more). 
Construct a rectangle how to construct one-piece skirt.
Waist line divide it into four equal parts, from the points of division to the bottom of the skirt draw dotted lines which denote the "cut". 1/2 thigh circumference plus 2 cm subtract 1/2 waist circumference: 52 - 38 = 14 cm.
14 cm, divide into three equal parts 14:3=47 (rounded 5 cm).

Building three equal Darts that don't reach the hip line each with 2 - 4 cm (if you need to do more flare, then tuck should be higher). The pattern cut along the dotted lines, cut out the Darts. Tuck closed and due to this, the skirt hem is expanded, the flare is obtained (Fig. 119).
The middle of the front and rear panels have an oblique suture, the equity - line side.