SCHOOL DRESS

Size 40

Measurements:
the total length of the dress......... 85 cm
back length to waist....... 34 cm
front length 46 cm minus
1/6 neck circumference.......... 40,5 cm
shoulder length .................... 12 cm
neck circumference................ 17 cm
the circumference of the chest.............. 40 cm
the circumference of the armhole........... 34 cm
sleeve length.................... 50 cm

Build back. Fig. 59

Take the plan line AB, equal to 18.5 cm, at the rate of 1/2 of the circumference of the neck plus 1.5 cm on the free fitting for all sizes: neck circumference 34: 2+ 1,5 = 18,5 cm
From points And drop a vertical line to 85 cm (dress length). From point A vertically lowered to 1 cm from the point A to the right of the line plan delayed 5.5 cm is based 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 34: 6=5,b (about 5.5 cm).
Point of 5.5 connecting by hand a concave line with point 1 and get the neck back.
From point B down 4 cm (bevel shoulder backless), point 4 being joined by a straight line with point 5.5 and get the shoulder 13 cm calculate the length of the shoulder 12 cm, plus 1 cm for a landing when basting.
From point 4 drop a vertical dotted line 15.5 cm from the calculation of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 4 cm the circumference of the openings 34: 3 = 11,3 (about 11.5 cm) and 11.5+4= 15.5 cm.
Through the point of 15.5 draw a horizontal line of the breast from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest: the circumference of the chest 80: 4=20 cm.
From the point of 15.5 on the line of the dotted line rises by 2 cm, the remaining part from point 2 to point 4 divide in half. From the dividing point to the left at a right angle lay off 1 cm from the hand of a concave line from point 4 (slant shoulder) through the point 1, point 2 to point 20 of a drawn armhole sleeves.
From 20 point drop a vertical line to the bottom of the product and is connected to the point 85.
From point 1 (neck) vertically lowered to 34 cm (length to waist), from a point 34 to the right, hold the waist, which is denoted by the point T. From the point T to the left-delayed 2 cm and point 2 the straight line connecting point 20.
From a point 34 vertically-delayed 17 cm (length to the hips) at the rate of 1/2 the length of the back: back length 34: 2 = 17 see
From the point 17 to the right draw a horizontal line of the hips so that it went 1 cm over the right vertical line. Then from point 2 (waist) through the point 1 hold a straight line to the bottom line and get a line the sides of the backrest.
Through the sides rises by 1 cm, and 1 hand smooth line crystallise to the middle of the bottom. Line the sides of the back from point 20 to point T denoted by two lines, and the line of sides from point 2 to point 1 bottom - three lines. These lines will set the length of the sides of the front.
The middle of the back has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Build shelves. Fig. 60

Take the plan line AB, equal to 23.5 cm, at the rate of 1/2 of the circumference of the neck plus 1.5 cm free customized fit, plus 5 cm for the tuck: neck circumference 34: 2+ 1,5+ 5 =23.5 cm
From points And drop a vertical line 88 cm based on length 85 cm plus 3 cm on the length: length of the product on the back 85+3=88 cm.
From point A to the left of the line plan delayed 5.5 cm is based 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 34: 6 = 5.6 cm (about 5.5 cm).
From A vertical fall to 6.5 cm from calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm neck circumference 34: 6=5,6 (rounded to 5.5 cm). 5,5+1=6,5 cm
By hand a concave line from point to point 5,5 6,5 plotted neck shelves. From the point of 5.5 to the left of the line plan delayed 2.5 cm from point of 2.5 down to 0.5 cm to 0.5 Point connected by a straight line with point of 5.5. From the point of 0.5 omit the vertical line (parallel mid-shelf) along the length of the tuck 18 cm (standard). From the point of 2.5 to the left of the line plan delayed 5 cm (the depth of the tuck). Point 5 connected by a straight line with point 18 and the line from point 18 to postpone the length of the tuck 18 cm (lines darting each other are equal, this line is to plan PE comes).
From point B down to 6 cm from the calculation of the taper of shoulder 3.5 cm (for all sizes) plus 1/2 tuck: the bevel of the shoulder shelves 3,5 + 5:2 = b, see
Point 6 connected by a straight line with the point of the inclined line tuck. From point 6 hold down the dotted line 14.5 cm parallel to the inclined line of the tuck, at the rate of 1/3 of the circumference of the armhole plus 3 cm: the circumference of the openings 34: 3=11,3 (rounded to 11.5 cm) is 11.5+3=14.5 cm.
Through the point of 14.5 (the line of the armscye length) draw a horizontal line chest 26 cm from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 6cm to free breast fit for all sizes: circumference of the chest 80: 4+ 6 = 26 see
From the point of 14.5 on the dotted line rises by 2 cm, the distance from point 2 to point 6 divide in half, and from the dividing point to the right at a right angle lay off 1 cm From a point 14.5 mm to the left of the chest delayed 2 cm, the distance from point 2 to point 26, divide in half, the dividing point falls at 1, see a Concave line from the hand connecting point b through the point 1, point 2, point 2, point 1, point 26 and a drawn armhole.
From point A vertically down by 40.5 cm calculate the length of the front 46 cm minus 1/6 neck circumference: length 46 - 5,5=40,5 cm
From a point 26 omit the line side of the line equal to the sides of the back to the waist line (from point 20 to point T), denoted by its point T. Point T connect free from 40.5 and get the waist line. From T point to the right waist-delayed 2 cm, point 2 connected by a straight line with point 26. From T point drop a vertical line of 17 cm (equal to the length from the waist to the thighs), from the point of 40.5 so down to 17 cm and 17 points connect free a line parallel to the waist line so that it went beyond a vertical line 3 cm: chest 26 + 3 = 29 cm
Through point 2 (at the waist) and point 3 (on the hips) draw a straight line and lay off on it the length of the sides of the front equal to the length of the sides of the backrest (from point 2 to point 1 on the drawing is marked with three dashes). Point sides joined by hand-free from 88.

The construction of the sleeve. Fig. 61

Take line plan 36 cm calculate the circumference of the armhole plus 2 cm: the circumference of the openings 34 + 2 = 36 see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 36 cm to 50 cm, where 50 cm - sleeve length.
From point A on a vertical fall of 12 cm from a calculation of 1/3 of the width of the sleeve (armhole circumference plus 2 cm): the circumference of the openings 34 + 2 = 36 cm sleeve width 36 : 3 = 12 cm.
From the point 12 to the right draw a horizontal line to the line BG and denoted by the point P.
Line plan of divide AB into six equal parts and the points of division denoted by the points A1, A2, AZ, A4, A5; from each point drop a vertical line 12P. The intersection of the vertical line from point A5 with the line 12P denoted by the point P1.
From the point 12 of the line AB increase of 0.5 cm from point A1 down,5 cm, from point A2 - 1.5, see Point A3 is the high point of the head sleeve. From the point A4 drops 2 cm, the distance PP1 divide in half, and from the dividing point falls at 0.5 cm Concave line from the hand from left to right connecting point to 0.5 point to 6.5 point 1.5 point AZ - high-point, point 2, point P1, point 0.5 point n, and draw the crown of the sleeve.
From point A2 drop a vertical line to the bottom of the sleeve and denoted by the line of the elbow.
From a point In the right and dot G to the left on hem sleeves-delayed 2 cm from each of the 2 points rise to 1 see Point 1 (left) connected by a straight line with the point 0.5 on the vertical AB; point 1 (right), with point P.
From point 2 (right on bottom line) - delayed left 4 cm, from a point 4 rise 2 cm Smooth line from point 1 (left - right), turning the hem at the point of intersection with the line of the elbow, through point 2 to point 1 plotted the cuff.
Right sleeve from a point P to the point 1 - to the front, the left from a point 0.5 to 1 point - to the back.
Line elbow when a cut is placed on the equity thread.

Construction of collar No. 1. Fig. 62

Take line plan 17 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference: neck circumference 34: 2=17 see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 17 cm by 8 cm where 8 cm is the width of the collar.
From point A down to 1 cm from point B lay off the right 4 cm, the point 4 being joined by a straight line with point 1.
From a point In the right delay 5.5 cm is based 1/6 neck circumference: neck circumference 34: 6=5,6 (rounded to 5.5 cm).
From point G rises by 1 cm, point 1 connected by straight lines with a point 5.5 point 4.
Line 1B is the middle of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Construction of collar No. 2. Fig. 63

Take line plan 17 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference: neck circumference 34: 2=17 see
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 17 cm by 6 cm, 6 cm is the width of the collar.
Lines AB, AB and VG each divide in half.
From point A rise to 1.5 cm, 1,5 connecting point free line point dividing the line AB. From the point dividing the line AB lay off to the left 3 cm, point 3 connect a straight line with a point of 1.5, then a free curved line from the hands connected with the point of dividing line of VG.
Line BG is the middle of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.

Cutting and tailoring

In the drawings (Fig. 59, 60, 61) given the basic pattern of the dress uniforms on which you can perform any style. For example, the waist can be sewn Darts. If the dress you must be the clasp, by the middle of the front add not more than 3 to 4 cm In dresses for girls of primary school age do a collar, for senior - front with clasp at mid-back. A tuck on the shoulder can sew or lay in soft folds.
Dress you can do a single cut or cutting (the pattern cut at the waist). Cutting the skirt is recommended to fold different styling.

SKIRT WITH ONE-WAY CIRCULAR FOLDS. Fig. 64

Take the material from the calculation of the circumference of the hips plus 4 cm for loose fit and multiplied by 3: the circumference of their hips 88+4X3=276 cm
The width of the folds can be 3 - 5 cm Take a width of 4 cm find out how many it is necessary to lay the folds. To do this, take the circumference of your hips plus 4 inches for loose fit and divide by the width of the folds: the circumference of their hips 88+4 = 92 cm 92: 4 = 23 fold.
Then you need to know how wide should be every fold at the waist. To this end, the waist circumference divided by the number of folds: waist circumference 68: 23=2.8 cm (about 3 cm).
First of all, grind off all the cloth fabric, not the stitching of one seam, since the pleated skirt is in expanded form. If there are edges, before resaturate seams, edges to nadsech in several places. Establish the exact length of the skirt, bends her and finally sutured, leaving not filed 8 - 10 cm.
On the canvas, outline the hips (a large kerchief), then lay the pleats. Bottom line from the edge of the cloth is left to the seam. The width of the pleats 4 cm, then the depth of the folds (the value, which is laid inside the folds) will be equal to the width of folds multiplied by 2, in this case 4x2=8 cm From the seam lay 1/2 the depth of the pleats 4 cm, then the width of the folds 4 cm depth of the folds to 8 cm, the width of the folds, deep folds, etc.
Folds zametyvayut from the bottom to the hips, and the skirt should be equal to the width of your hips plus 4 cm and Then placed pleats at the waist and also zametyvayut. When the pleats are laid, they need to make amends for the wrong side, stitch the last stitch to finish hem bottom. You must make sure that bridging the seams were in the depth of wrinkles. At the request of the folds on the wrong side of the line of the hips can be attached to the braid.