Preparation for fitting
In the preparation of the product to the first fitting should be in the following sequence.
1. To celebrate the middle of the back and front panels, sleeves, waistline seam cushioning.
2. To lay a snare for the main lines and shaped patterns.
3. Baste and sew the wedges (if any), the seams resuturing.
4. Baste Darts and soft pleats, folding and aligning them from the end. Tuck to smatyvay from the slices by the end of frequent fine stitches, so that when the grinding they did not move.
5. Sweep shaped line (undercuts, reliefs) to do the Assembly, if required by style. When connecting parts smachivanie to produce those parts that are fit fabrics: Assembly, curved seams, concave line.
6. Baste shoulder seams of the back and shelves, combining the control points.
Planting should not be located close to the armhole. Shoulder seams right shoulder to smatyvay from Rostock to the armhole, of the left - on the contrary, from the armhole to sprout on the back.
Tuck in the middle of the back as well as fit, tightens loose tissue of the back and gives a beautiful fit.
To the tissues amenable to stretching, tack the edge to the shoulder cut shelves. The width of edge 1 cm length 0.7 cm shorter than the shoulder cut of the back. The shoulder tuck is not primitivity for ease in stitching it after fitting.
7. If the dress cut at the waist to connect the bodice to the skirt. For this bodice to attach the skirt (inside out), chopping the pins, aligning the middle of the back with the middle of the rear cloth skirts, mid-front mid-front panels and side seams, and then sweep.
8. Lifts the sleeve to lay stitches in two rows: the first row at 1 cm from the edge of the crown, the second 0.5 cm from the first.
First fitting
If a pattern is compiled accurately taken measure taking into account physique, properly, sour cream and the product, during the fitting fixes to minor. To produce the fitting on the right side of the product, and if the shape deviations from normal on both sides. Stab the clasp if it has one. During the fitting it is necessary to pay attention to the following.
1. The middle of the back should be held in the middle of the back, and middle of the shelves - in the middle of the front of the figure.
2. To establish exactly waist line. For this circle the figure of the tape and the direction of the braid to pave the waistline.
3. To pay attention to the overall fit of the product, to clarify the direction of the Darts, which should be located towards the centre of the bust.
4. If viewed from the side, the shoulder seam should be how to divide the shoulder in half.
5. The side seam needs to go in a straight line.
6. If the product waist widely, while trying to lay the tucks or folds and hold them together with pins. Length and depth depend on their shapes.
7. To clarify the neck or the size and shape of the collar. The neck product should fit snugly to the neck.
8. To clarify contoured lines and exceptional finishing details: pockets, flaps, ruffles, etc.
9. The lower collar (or the pattern of the collar) to attach to the neck so that its middle coincides with the middle of the back, and the ends with the middle shelves.
10. To clarify the neckline armhole stitches or osmeloski. The excess top part of the sleeve, intended for planting (3 to 4 cm), to pull. Pin to pin center of the crown to the shoulder seam with the ACC cut in the side of inside. To distribute the fit of the sleeves so that it was more at the back than the shelves.
Apply test point connection sleeve with the armhole from shoulder seam down at a distance of 8 - 10 cm in the direction of the back and shelves. If the center of the top part of the sleeve does not coincide with the shoulder seam, pin the sleeve as required by the figure, and apply the control connection point of the center of the crown with the armhole.
After trying to make the thread a running stitch along the armhole of the bodice around the top part of the sleeve, which will be the guiding line when matiwane sleeves in armhole.
11. The bodice with cap sleeves (long or trehchetvertki) shoulder seam, top and bottom seam of the sleeve should lie flat.
12. To identify the location of the hinges.
13. Note the length of the product.
After the first fitting, if there are corrections to unpick the side and shoulder seams, folded back, and the shelf face inward, peregnul them through the middle, combining shoulder and side sections. Chopping the product at the shoulder and side sections of the pins and to postpone the scheduled repair at the time of fitting the snare with your right hand on the left. After correcting the defects identified during the first fitting, to start sewing and preparing it for its second fitting, after checking the uniformity correction on both sides of the product.
The second fitting
The second fitting should be Stacey and jotted all shaped line, tuck, shoulder, side seams of the skirt, umetani sleeves, collar, tacked on the bodice to the skirt, sweeps the bottom of the product.
While trying to update:
the length and width of the product;
the correct matiwane of the collar to the neckline, the sleeves in the armhole;
in products with cap sleeves to draw the bottom of the sleeve;
to clarify the shape and position of the finishing details;
to mark the site of terminations of buttons, snaps, hooks, etc.;
to pay attention to the overall fit of the product.
Correction of defects during the fitting
If the pattern is composed is not accurate, is not accurately taken measurements when drafting the pattern is not taken into account shape features, wrong, sour cream and the product (the shifted control point, not planted parts in the right places, improperly handled the product with iron, wrong vmean sleeve, collar, etc.), during the fitting can occur following defects.
| Defect |
The cause of the defect |
The elimination of the defect |
| Excess webbing on the chest at the end of a chest tuck |
For this shape big lapel tuck |
To unpick the shoulder seam and tuck, reduce her perekryvaniem pins in the figure, and the excess fabric due to the depth of the tuck to release in the direction of the armhole and cut |
| Slack in the armhole shelves and transverse creases |
Stretch armhole |
A stretched armhole to collect on a thread and sucurity. In tissues which are not susceptible to shrinkage, armhole stretched to pull on a string |
| Small breast tuck |
To unpick the shoulder seam and to increase the depth of tuck due to supply-side openings |
| Shoulder seam goes back |
Removed incorrect measurement of the length of the back, so small fit on the shoulder backless. Large armhole shelves, that is, a sprained arm or a little cut-shoulder shelves closer to the armhole |
To increase the fit of the shoulder backless due to supply side openings. In some cases it is necessary to make tucks to a depth of 1 - 1.5 cm more
To release the stock in the shoulder seam of the back, without disturbing the height of the sprout and the shoulder seam of the shelf to pick up |
| Shoulder seam in the bodice with single cut sleeve goes back |
Small landing on the shoulder and the sleeve (above the elbow on the back) |
To increase the fit of the shoulder and arm back or lay a tuck on the shoulder |
| Short back sleeves on the line of the armhole |
To release the margin of the seam of the back, and the shelf to pick up, securing with Bobby pins, the shoulder seams and the sleeves on the figure |
| Oblique creases at the armhole of the backrest |
Not taken into account the height of the shoulders when building patterns, that is, small bevel shoulder for that piece |
To unpick the shoulder seam and the excess fabric to take on the shoulder of the backrest wider at the armhole, without disturbing the height of Rostock |
| Bias side seam in the back side or shelves |
When constructing a pattern is not taken into account peculiarities of shape (protruding stomach, wide hips), the product is tapered at the hips on the back and the shelf |
Rip the side seam to the waist line, let the stock side cut back or shelves and pin the figure |
| Front shift dress hem lifted |
In constructing patterns it is not considered a high bust and protruding stomach |
To unpick the shoulder seam, to release the stock in the shoulder seam of the shelf to the neck |
| The transverse wrinkling in the bodice, running from the side seam along the side tuck |
Insufficient depth of the side tuck |
To increase the depth of the side tuck |
| The oblique creases on the back from side seam to side blades, the product pulls back |
Wrong smetana's side seam, that is, the reference point of the backrest is folded down |
To unpick the side seam and align the control points |
| Short back from Rostock to the waist line (when compiling a pattern is not taken into account the peculiarities of stooped figures) |
Rip the side seam, the reference point of the backrest to be raised above the control point of the shelves, to deepen the armhole of the backrest to the depth of the armhole shelves, to produce a stock fabric at the waist |
| The product pulls back |
Press Rostock |
Mark shoulder seam and release the shoulder cut of the back in the direction of Rostock (Rostock to expand) |
| Press shift stand on the back |
To release the stock weld racks on the back (extend the rack) |
| Transverse crease on the back below the shoulder blades in one-piece dress |
Narrowed the product line of the hips |
Rip the side seam, releasing the margin of the hip line |
| The neck is not snug to the neck |
Neck small |
To deepen the neckline. At equal distances to cut the tube to product against the neck. Charting a new neck |
| The collar is skewed (crooked) |
Stretched one side of the neck |
To assemble slice the neck on a string or sucurity stretched the side of neck |
| Unequal width of the shoulder seams |
Fold the product in the middle of the shelves and back, to pick up or release the stock in shoulder seam to shoulder seams aligned |
| The collar is not snug to the neck |
Sprained neck |
To assemble slice the neck on a string or sucurity |
| Enlarged neck |
Pick over the neck at the shoulder seams |
| Collar and more neck, that is, when matiwane in the neck collar planted |
Reduce the collar along the line terminations |
| Creases on the back under the collar |
A bevel shoulder back more than the required shoulder height of the figure |
To release the stock of the bevel shoulder backless without disturbing the height of the sprout. If there is no stock, the excess tissue that accumulates under the collar, to remove |
| In the narrow sleeve seam pulls forward or backward |
Much taken up in the seam at the bottom of the sleeve (front or back) |
To release the stock back (if the seam pulls back) or release the stock front part of sleeve (if the seam pulls forward) |
| The lack of fit to the rear of the sleeve at the elbow |
At the elbow to make a tuck, the front section of the sleeves are a bit sucurity |
| Transverse creases in the top part of the sleeve |
For this shape with a high crown sleeve |
To change the height of the top part. For this purpose, the fitting to bend it by 1 - 2 cm, pin the sleeve to the shoulder seam at the armhole backrest and shelves, to clarify the height of the crown, after which the excess tissue to cut |
| Oblique creases in the top part of front sleeve |
The center lifts the shoulders, and shifted to the back or incorrectly distributed landing |
Move the center of the top part of the sleeve to the shelf or properly distribute the landing, securing with Bobby pins the sleeve to the armhole on the body |
| Oblique creases in the top part of the sleeves in the back |
The center of the crown sleeve is shifted forward, or incorrectly distributed landing |
Move the center of the top part of the sleeve to the back or to properly distribute the landing, securing with Bobby pins the sleeve to the armhole on the body |
| Oblique creases in the top part of the sleeve front and back |
Small the height of the top part of the sleeve |
To extend the height of the top part of the sleeve. To do this, cut the lower part of the crown |
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