Every year the growing prosperity of the Soviet people. Thus increases the demand of Soviet women for beautiful, well made clothing for themselves and children. It is quite understandable that the interest shown by women to learn tailoring and sewing clothes.
Existing literature on the design and sewing of clothing is designed primarily for individuals who already have a basic knowledge on sewing and cutting.
Years of teaching experience of cutting, sewing and modeling of this system showed that this system gives fast and positive results, good absorption of material the trainees.
We have set a goal to write a book teach summarizing our experience, which could be taught women with no knowledge of sewing clothing.
The feature outlined in this book build method drawings is that they are not built for measuring the proportional system and for the exact calculations of each line of the pattern and points that facilitates women's self-drafting patterns for any figure.
In the book that build basic drawings of children's clothing and women's easy dress, the rules sewing and processing products, the basics of modeling.
The author hopes that the book will help to learn a wide range of women to sew clothes for their children and for themselves.

TECHNIQUES SEWING WORKS 

When performing manual work, you need to put a thimble on the middle finger of the right hand. The thickness of the needle and thread depends on the thickness of the fabric. Needle when sewing it is necessary to keep the thumb and forefinger of the right hand. The needle end of the eyelet rests on the thimble.
When choosing the needle it is necessary to know that needle with an odd numbering considerably longer than with even. Short needles to sew not, they only embroider or sew products.
The length of the thread, devemos the needle should not exceed 40 - 60 cm (wave of the hand), the longer a thread goes awry, is in knots.
Manual work is generally performed in a seated position, sewing is on the table, the working body is in a straight position or slightly tilted.
When working on the car is very important the correct position of the body working. It is necessary to sit straight, leaning forward slightly. Work must be to the left and the light falling also on the left. The product is placed under the foot, then the right hand turn the handwheel to bring the needle into the fabric where the stitching starts. Then the foot is lowered again turn the wheel to yourself and start scribbling. The correct position of the feet on the pedals: right foot slightly put forward, and the left - back.
The product is under the car should be put up by the party on which was used for basting, because basting hand-assemble the top fabric and machine, on the contrary, prepositive lower. Before you sew the product on the machine, it is necessary to clean it from the remaining thread-snares. Machine stitching should not go for the basting, and basting stitch around very close, so you can easily pull out the tacking thread.
It is necessary to carefully monitor the car in a timely manner to lubricate.

SEAMS

 The seam "forward a needle" (Fig. 1) used in charting products. The same seam, gather the Assembly and sew the light fabric. Sewn seam "forward needle", from right to left, uniform stitches with the upper and lower side sew of the fabric. Stitches can be small (in assemblies) and large (while basting).
To gather the ruffles, at the distance of one or half a centimeter from the edge of the fabric, make 3 to 4 lines straight and small stitches. The smaller the stitches, the assemblies are smaller and will lie better. Then the threads pull together and the Assembly straightened.
 The seam "behind needle" (Fig. 2) used for hand sewing. Pre-planned the size of the stitch. Bottom needle capture distance twice larger than the stitch at the top and go outside. Then the needle is put back, the bottom half of the captured material and a seam connects tightly as in a car.

 The seam "stitching" (Fig. 3) - machine stitching hand - applied in manual sewing. Inject the needle, outline stitch, then the bottom of the product is captured by the needle the same distance as the upper, and outside, the needle is put back to the place where the first stitch ends, in order to fill the distance the bottom of the stitch. Thus, a continuous hollow seam, no gaps, reminiscent of a machine seam. This seam is very durable and completely replace the engine.
 Seam "over the edge" or the boundary line (Fig. 4) is used in cases when you need to sew two strips having the edge. This seam to sew the lace to the nail bent or pre-processed edge of the material. Sewn edge stitching: the material is folded together, edge to edge, and piercing both edges at the edge, go ahead with the needle right to left through the edge of the edge uniform stitches. Threads are protected by color of the product.

 The seam "loopy stitch" (Fig. 5) is used for buttonhole loops. The loop is cut in an equity or transverse thread, and never cut on the bias, cut it equal to the diameter of buttons. After the loop is cut, its overcast over the edge with a thin thread in the color of the product. To lay the loop starts on the left, with the lower edge of the incision, securing the thread without a knot. Buttonhole stitch is done as follows: the needle is introduced into the slit loop and pierce the fabric from the bottom, podawa 2-3 threads, then the needle tip from the left ear to the right throws the loop from the same thread, pull the needle, the thread is delayed.For each subsequent stitch, needle vylivaetsya next to the previous one to two lines. In this case, the loop will be smooth and beautiful. When the bottom edge of the buttonhole sewn, turn the product so that noblity region was at the bottom, and overcast. For strength in the corners of the loop is lock - a small air loop is made of two or three threads that are moved across the slit and tight obmenivaetsya over the edge. Linen locks are doing on both sides, on dresses and blouses - one.

 Seam "traps" applies to transfer lines on the same details (Darts, pleats, reliefs, etc.). For that the contour details are laid stitches with a seam "forward a needle", not tightening the thread. With each stitch left a small loop the size of 1 - 1.5 cm (Fig. 6) . After the stitch of the fabric is stretched to a tension of the loops and thread between the parts is cut in the middle (Fig. BA). The ends of the yarn give the direction of the lines. The laying of snares is considered the most reliable method with transfer of lines into homogeneous parts.

 "Velvet stitch" or "goat" (Fig. 7) is considered the finishing stitch for binding hem dresses, sleeves and other parts.
Sets of two lines that will seam. The needle is put in the bottom of nepogody the edge of the fabric to hide the knot of thread. Then move on to another line with a slope of not more than 0.5 cm, a needle is pierced to yourself, pick up one or two threads (to thread onto the face of the fabric were not visible), then move on to the bottom line with a slope of not more than 0.5 cm, put the needle to himself, grabbing a few threads, and so on, moving from one side to the other.

 A hidden blind stitch seam (Fig. 8) apply for filing the bottom of the products, sleeves, collars, etc. For this work I take a thin needle and thread in the color of the product, cotton or silk, on high. Hem bends and large 
needle primetyvajut. Bent fabric slightly turn the needle and gently grab one or two threads of the main fabric products and at the same time one or two lines of bending, then the needle goes to the ACC of 0.5 - 0.25 cm and repeat the stitch.

 The seam is lapped (Fig. 9) is used when sewing underwear, the same seam you can sew sleepwear and sports jackets. Take two pieces of fabric, folded face to face so that one edge of the fabric was higher than the other by 1 - 1.5 cm, smatyvay on the edge of the bottom fabric. Prostrachivajut on the machine on the basting, basting and pull the canvas spread. The top edge of the fabric to buckle, cover them, lower primetyvajut to the bottom of the canvas and basting prostrachivajut by car wkra (close to the edge). Lapped seam consists of two machine lines on the underside.

 The seam is negative (Fig. 10) is used in sewing of clothes, cotton dresses, loose, thin silk and lace. He sewed two edges of the fabric fold wrong side with the wrong side (fabric face upwards) and at a distance of 0.25 cm from the top smatyvay. Scribbling on the basting, and then pull out the basting, the seam rautureau on two sides, the product inside out and get the seam on the edge. On the wrong side of the fabric smatyvay to close the seam on the front side (need to check to see if the first seam on the front side of the fabric), and then scribbling on the car.

 Seam coverstitch or bridging (Fig. 11) applies to all products and is sewn in the following way: two fold fabric face to face and away from the top 1 - 2 cm, smatyvay, basting prostrachivajut car pull out basting, the seam rautureau on two sides and is treated so edges are not oblamalis. You can handle the car, hands over the edge or rare buttonhole stitch. Cut the fabric with its teeth is not recommended.