Dress in a circular fold (Fig. 86), cut at the waist line. The most dense tissue, which after Ironing preserve the shape of the folds. It is crimplene, wool and wool blend fabrics, denim, etc.
For pattern-based apply a line style (Fig. 86 a). The back and the front of the skirt laid in pleats. To make the folds was lush and deep, measure out three lengths of skirt, that is to cut out a skirt of three panels, the width of each cloth is measure the circumference of the hips. In this case, the circumference of the hips 84 cm to find out how much fabric is need to lay inside the folds and how much to leave on the surface will do the following calculation.
If you make pleats for 4 cm, then the circumference of the hips (84 cm) divide by four and get the number of folds (21). Now the entire fabric width - 240 cm - divide by 21 and you know that each pleat will go 11.5 cm: 4 cm in width and 7.5 cm to the depth of the pleats. This calculation of the circumference of the hips.
When calculating the circumference of the waist (in this case, waist circumference 72 cm) divide 72 by 21 and get a 3.5 cm Hence the width of the folds at the waist is 3.5 cm and 8 cm at the depth of wrinkles. Thus, at the top of the folds get deeper and narrower, and at the bottom is shallower and wider. During the laying of the necessary bridging to hide the stitches under the folds.
Back. Back to cut out for a pattern-based. The closure of three air loops.
Before. To cut out the pattern-basis. Breast tuck the cut and then close.
The layout on the fabric. In the basic pattern do the slits at the waist and side tuck bodice. A tuck on the skirt are not doing. Pattern the middle of the back and front attach to the fold of the fabric at common thread (Fig. 86 b),
a Raise on the seams: along the armhole and neck - 1 cm, on the back and bottom of the bodice 2 cm on the side seams - 3 cm, hem of the dress-ACC - 4 - 5 cm
Sleeve. Short sleeve - lush flashlight. Main pattern cut in half and parts of the sliding sleeve 10 cm.
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