TRANSLATION OF THE MAIN DARTS IN THE LINE OF BOCA

Blouse with front line shelves, with a single cut collar (collar can be sew-on). Tuck moved to the side.

Take main pattern blouses tuck (Fig. 131). Draw a section line: a line side from a point 31 to point T divide in half, from the points of division to tuck draw the line of the cut.
To build a piece of collar from point 8 through point 7 (neck) draw line, dash line and continue beyond point 7 by 7 cm calculate 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm: neck circumference 36:6+1=7, see
At a right angle to the point 7 (of the collar) to the right drawing a line 4 cm From point 8 to the right conduct of the dotted line 3 cm from a point 44 (waist) to the right - as 3 see Point 3 and point 3 connected by a straight line (3 cm is on the clasp). From point 3 (neck) right on the dotted line-delayed 3 see Point 3 connect the straight dashed line with dot 4. The line of dashes divide in half, from the dividing point to the left at a right angle delay 1 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 4 through point 1 with point 3. From point 3 (on the clasp) vertically down for 3 cm.Point 3 and point 3 (collar) hand mating concave line.
When all the lines of cut marked on the pattern, it is necessary to cut the shoulder on the inclined tuck lines and tuck close. Then cut the pattern line drawing style and tuck will go to the line side (Fig. 131 6).
To the waist line must be added to the length of blouse 15 cm (if cut out dress, add only up to 5 cm).
The middle shelves blouses - share. Podborny collar podtraivaet in cut and sew blouse according to the processing rules of the Board.

TRANSLATION OF THE MAIN DARTS IN THE NECK

1 style. Blouse has ruching at the neck, short sleeve, cap.

Take main pattern blouses tuck. On the basic pattern of the forepart of the neck, divide in half, from the points of division to the bottom tuck draw the line of incision (Fig. 132).
To build short sleeves from the point P rises by 1 cm and Then from point b through point 1 draw the line the length of the sleeve so that it went beyond the point of 1 4 cm (2 cm). Then from point 4 of a drawn armhole sleeves.
On the back rise from a point P 1 cm From point 6 through point 1 draw the line the length of the sleeve so that it went beyond the point of 1 4 cm (2 cm). A drawn armhole sleeves.

When the line of cut marked on the pattern, close the tuck, cut the line cut and tuck goes into the neck. The neck prior to treatment should be collected on the needle and thread finely in two or three rows forward with a needle. To blouse, sew a narrow standing collar or neck edging binding (Fig. 132 a).
Rules sewing and processing blouse by the rules.

2 the style. Fig. 133. Take main pattern blouse and also apply a line style, only without the add on cap sleeves. Instead of a ruched neckline translated is laid in the outer tuck tuck, pinned buttons. On the left side under the tuck - clasp.
Rules sewing and processing blouse by the rules.

SMOCKS

For the construction of the pattern smock take a major pattern shift dresses and put on her line of cut (Fig. 134) .
  Back. A point 22 connected by a straight line with point D. At the waist of the back is waist length waist backless dress and a width of 4 cm
  Shelf. From the point 8 to the right draw dotted line horizontal line 10 cm from a point 10 rise 2 cm From a point 10 rounded corner 2 and conduct a concave line to the point 8. From point D1 to the right draw a horizontal line 10 cm and 10 point, upper and lower, connected by a straight line (10 cm follow the smell to the Board). Front tuck at the waist when the cut is not marked, due to her to the side tuck is added to 1 cm in each direction (deepening the Darts in the waist). Point 31 connected by a straight line with point D.

the construction of the collar.

Take the line plan, 22 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 4 cm: neck circumference 36:2+4=22 cm
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 22 cm by 6 cm, 6 cm is the width of the collar.
From the point G to the left on a horizontal line-delayed 4 cm From point To climb to 2, see Point 2 and point 4 connect the straight dashed line, dotted line, divide in half, from the point of division up at a right angle lay off 1.5 cm Point 2 connected by hand a concave line through a point 1.5 point 4.
From point B vertically lowered to 2 cm, point 2 and point 4 being joined by a straight line. From point B to the left of the line plan delayed 2 see Point 2 and point 2 connect free line, rounds the corner. Line A2 is the midpoint of the collar, has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.
Cuff cut out the common thread, the width is optional, the length of the arm circumference.
The pockets can be any size. Place the pocket determined in the fitting.
Podborny otkrivaetsa in cut products.
If the robe is single breasted, it should be added on Board not more than 5 cm in a Fitted gown tailor the basic pattern one-piece dress only without side recklessne. Darts remain in place.
Rules of addition to the seams and elaboration of the product according to the rules.

HOME BATHROBE

Take a basic shift dress pattern and apply a line style (Fig. 135).
  Back. Tuck the cut. From point 4 (the bottom of the tucks) to bottom of the dress from waist Darts to dot and T's the pattern being cut. Mid-back - equity, has a fold of material. The section line is defined by "equity".
  Shelf. The first tuck (from middle shelves) cut point 4 (the bottom of the tucks) to bottom of the dress are cut lines and the designated "share". From the first tuck on the waist line to the point T make the cut.
By the middle of the shelves precursive Board. From the point 8 to the right draw dotted line horizontal line 7 cm From the point 7 at a right angle rise 4 see Point 4 and point 7 (high point shoulder) connect a straight dashed line, dotted line, divide in half, from the dividing point downwards at a right angle delay 1 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point 4 point 1 point 7. From point 44 (waist line) - delayed 4 cm to the right From the point D1 to the right draw a horizontal line 7 cm. Straight lines connecting the point 7 (bottom), point 4, point 4 with point 7 and point 4.
Middle shelves - equity.

The layout on the material patterns of the back. Fig. 136
The middle of the back stacked on the equity line on the fold of the material. From the point of the waist of 1.5 through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck).
From the resulting corner upwards on an inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge (so all mowed down oblique lines).
The layout on the material patterns of the shelves. Fig. 137.
The middle shelves are laid on the material the common thread. A ruler or a centimeter put on the 2 point (waist) and period 4 (bottom tuck) and provide a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the resulting corner on the inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.

The layout wedges. Fig. 138.
Cut a wedge (the cover back) of equity puts the thread on equity. Pattern pin. A ruler or a centimeter is placed on a point In (waist) and period 4 (bottom tuck), hold a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the resulting corner on the inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.
Cut a wedge (the front cover) pattern of equity puts the thread on equity. From a point (the waist) through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the resulting corner on the inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.

Cutting and tailoring

When sewing of the robe in the first place, gather in the Assembly side seams at the waist. These wedges are sewn at the waist to the back and the shelf. Then sew the wedges from the recesses to the bottom.
When the back and shelves are ready, sew the sides. Shoulder tuck smooth on both sides.
If the material is not enough, lateral wedges can be composed of two or three wedges (in this case, the flare will be more).
Podborny otkrivaetsa in cut products.

SHIFT DRESS WITH ELONGATED WAIST LINE SIDE

Take the basic pattern and apply the line style. Fig. 139.
  Back. From a point 38 at the middle of the back fall 10 cm From a point 1.5 (tuck) tuck lines fall by 6 cm, the points 10 and 6 connected by a straight line. From point 4 to hem draw the line of the cut.
  Shelf. The shoulder tuck in this style left in place.
From point 2 along the line of the Darts fall to 6 cm, the distance from point 2 to point T divide in half, from the points of division drop to 10 cm
From T point down the line Boca-delayed 6 cm and Then straight lines connecting point 10 point 6 point 6. From point 10 and from point 4 (the bottom tuck) hold down the section line.
When the line style is applied, it is necessary to cut the pattern and make the layout on the material.

The layout pattern on the material

  Back. Fig. 140. Mid-back placed on a fold of material on the share thread. From a point of 1.5 (waist) through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). Recklessne should not move a fold of the material. From the resulting corner on the line of recklessne rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.
Back cut wedge stacked on the material to "fold" on the fold. From the point 6 to the left draw a horizontal line and align the top of the wedge.
From point 6 through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the resulting corner on the inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.

  Shelf. Fig. 141. The middle shelves are laid on a fold of material on the share thread. When the pattern is unfolded, from a point 2 (waist) through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the resulting corner on the inclined line rise to 1.5 cm and mows down to the middle of the wedge.

The layout on the material of the front side of the wedges.

Take pattern 1 side of the wedge shelves, line cut stacked in an equity thread (Fig. 141 a). Then from point 6 through point 4 (bottom tuck) draw a straight line to the bottom of the product (recklessne by tuck). From the point 6 to the left draw a horizontal line, align the top of the wedge, indicated by point T. the Bottom of the wedge is denoted by the H-point. From the point N to the left pushes the value of recklessne of the wedge is equal to raskrashennoy right side and denoted by point D1. Point N1 connected by a straight line with point TFrom every angle of the bottom wedge up the sloping line to 1.5 cm and the crop wedges on there (this is done in order to wedge by oblique lines are not sagging).
Pattern 2 side shelves stacked wedge equity equity filament (Fig. 141 b). From the point 6 to the right draw a horizontal line and align the top of the wedge. At the bottom of the wedge from the point N to the right pushes the value of recklessne equal to raskrashennoy first wedge (width of the bottom of the first and second wedges are equal), and denotes the point H1.
Point N1 connected by a straight line with the point So the bottom of the wedge are also mowed to 1.5 cm.

Cut side of the wedges is possible without the use of patterns of lateral wedge (Fig. 142). To do this, measure the length of the sides of the wedge. The width of the top of the wedge take at will if they build the top of the wedge should increase; if
the wedges are without Assembly, it is necessary to measure the wedge on top of the dress and take equal width.
Two paintings put face to face and produce cut. From T point to the right horizontally-delayed 8 cm (10 cm) point 8 is connected to the point N. From the point 8 to the right pushes the width of the wedge (in our example, 11 cm) plus 2 cm for seams (11+2=13 cm) and denotes the point H2. If they build, add another 5 cm From the point T1 to the left putting off also 8 cm, from a point 8 - 11 cm plus 2 cm for seams and put the point N3. Point 8 is connected to the point N1, point 11 (bottom) with the point H2 and the point 11 (top) point N3.
The middle of each wedge should be on equity. This way you can cut wedges for any style of dress (this layout is less tissue). Wedges can be a few with the addition of pleats, pleated etc. For full figures, the wedges should be no allowances.

Cutting and tailoring

When you cut to allow for the seams by the rules. The line tucks lay snares. Capes are treated Podkayne material or bends with the seam.
Side seams are sewn. If there Assembly for the waist to collect on the needle and thread in two or three rows; if there are creases, lay them and then tack the wedges to the capes. Capes scribbled at the top, stitching the edge or away from the edge by 0.5 - 1 cm.
When the wedges tacked on, smatyvay tuck and wedges through to the bottom of the wedge (line tuck and wedge via the Cape should be continuous).
To the Cape of the back as well primetyvajut wedge and then sew a tuck through to the bottom of the wedge (solid line goes from darting through the wedge). When the wedges tacked on, smatyvay hips, shoulders by the rules.
Dress this style should fitting shape at the waist. For this purpose, the fitting should be set the depth of the recesses and the width of the side seams (too much to take in Darts or side seams). Optionally, you can sew the belt from the Darts on the shelves before the Darts on the back. Then tighten the dress at the waist line should not be.
The middle shelves of the dress has no seam. From the neck incision, which was treated with strip.
If you need to make the dress more strict, 2 side wedge shelves should not be cut and klasici, and leave it with a small risklerinin to the front.
The backrest can be one-piece, no Cape, with Darts sewn at the waist. In the middle of the back to make the seam.
Long sleeve, with cuff, hidden by style sleeves ladies ' blouses with the change of the size of the arm circumference.

The construction of the collar. Fig. 143

Take the line plan, 22 cm from calculation 1/2 neck circumference plus 4 cm: neck circumference 36:2+4=22 cm
Build the rectangle ABC with a size of 22 cm by 11 cm, 11 cm - the width of the collar. From point B vertically lowered to 2 cm, point 2 connected by the dashed line with point A, a line of dashes divide in half, from the points of division at right angle down 1 cm Concave line, hands joined point 2 point 1 point A. From point G rises by 2 cm, point 2 connect a straight dotted line with a point In a line of dashes divide in half, from the point of division up at the right angle delay 1 see the Concave line, hands joined point 2 point 1 point V.The line AB, divide in half, from the dividing point to the right at a right angle defer 3 see the Concave line from the hand connecting point a through the point 3 with the point B. the Line from point 2 to point 2 has a fold of material and cut out the common thread.