LAYOUT OF PATTERNS ON FABRIC
Before you cut the product, you need to check whether there is enough material on this product: to do this without cutting the material, roughly lay out the pattern.
Standard rules, no cut, since the different width of fabric, the size of the product, and there are only rules for the layout of patterns on the material.
Important when the cut has the correct location of parts on the cloth in relation to equity and transverse threads. It is necessary to consider the direction of the NAP of the fabric, the direction of the figure (there is a fabric with a pattern located at one side).
When you cut the material folded in half, face inward, as a pattern, usually made on half of the shape, that is, 1/2 back, 1/2 shelves (front), 1/2 of the collar.
The cut is produced by side side.
Even when cutting out the parts, drawings are made full size, the material is folded in half (for example, immediately cut two sleeves, cuffs, belt, etc.).
On patterns, you must specify the direction of the thread (equity, transverse, oblique, bend material, seam) and therefore to lay on the fabric.
To avoid bias patterns, they should pin pins, apply the addition to the seams can be small.
First cut large parts (backrest, shelf, skirt, sleeves), and then applied to small parts (collar, cuffs, belt, etc.). When you cut to allow for the seams by the rules. When adding on the joints will definitely be tucked away in the seams, then the product will be properly stitched up and good to sit on the figure.
NOUS PRODUCTS
Before to sweep away the product, it is necessary to build the outline of the large "forward a needle" in the middle of the back, the middle shelves, at the waist, mid sleeve, mid collar. In place of Darts lay snares.
First smatyvay tuck, then shoulders, hips, etc. smatyvay Shoulders back as 1 cm, adding when creating drawings, is landing. To smatyvay on the shelf not recommended. If there is a tuck at the shoulder, tuck leave on weight, that is not primetyvajut, and step over the basting seam Darts. Sides of bodice smachivaetsya on the shelf of bodice from the armhole to the waist. Smatyvay skirt from the waist down.
If the product has oblique or transverse lines, which are among themselves connected, then there is a fractional cross, it is necessary to smatyvay transverse or oblique thread. A slash line of products before you sew, you need to process an artificial edge: miss via a needle and thread "forward a needle" small, in two rows, the first row from the edge at a distance of 0.25 cm, the second at a distance of 0.5 cm from the first. After this treatment, the oblique lines do not stretch and do not droop.
Neck, if he shaped handle Podkayne material. If the neck is round, it is possible to process piping inside out, the width of the borders in ready 1.5 - 2 cm Before processing the neck should pass through the needle and thread "needle forward" finely.
The bottom of the product should have the ACC no more than 5 cm, with flares of not more than 3 cm.
The bottom of the flare as well you want to skip finely using a needle and thread "forward a needle" (the needle let loose without collecting material).
UMEDA SLEEVE IN ARMHOLE
One-piece sleeve
On the head sleeve outline highest point (this point nadsech scissors).
Find the highest point of the armhole that fits from the shoulder seam to the side front openings up to 1.5 cm (from high point may be on the shoulder, or 1 - 1.5 cm to the front).
From the highest point of armhole to the side of the front measured 8 cm from the highest point of the openings in the back side is 6 cm and put marocchi (labels). The dimensions of the high points can reach up to 8 - 10 cm.
The sleeve head needs to be wider than the openings on the 3 - 4 cm, this value is landing.
To ultimate sleeves starting from the side seam of the bodice. The seam of the sleeve pin 1 - 1.5 cm to the front from the side seam, sometimes seam to seam. Umetco sleeves starting from the side seam to the mark 8, then again from the side seam to the mark 6 (or to grade 6 to grade 8, whichever sleeve votives). In both cases it is only necessary to ultimate from the side seam to the brand (no matter the sleeve or armhole). When the bottom of the sleeve smetana, head of the sleeve - the top part is finely harvested in two or three rows and tighten to the size of the openings.Fasten the highest point of the sleeve and the armhole and sleeve umatyvaet only on the crown, evenly distributing fit.
Double seam sleeve (elbow)
Elbow seams, sleeve sew on the upper halves, and the front on the bottom. When vmade sleeves requires the crown to collect on the needle and thread in two-three rows and pull to the size of the openings. High point chipped, then ultimate. The top part of the sleeve is defined on the upper half - 6 - 8 cm from a high point.
The correct position of the sleeve in the armhole is considered in the case when planting is evenly distributed on top part of sleeve. The elbow seam is in the middle of the back (between the side and shoulder seams).
Seam stacki sleeve in the armhole should be no wider than 0.75 - 1 cm.
PROCESSING COLLAR
The collar has upper and lower parts. Fold the upper and lower collars face inwards and prostrachivajut seam 0.5 cm before reaching the line terminations to the neckline at 0.5 cm After the collar is stitched, cut the corners, remove the basting, turn the collar and there is Shoe.
Ready collar the upper part of the face is applied to the underside of the neck (middle of collar to middle of back) and prostrachivajut. Then turn the collar, the seam is directed to the side of the collar, the lower collar bends 0.5 cm, cover with a seam and prostrachivajut. Sewn collar prostrachivajut on the front side, away from the edge by 0.25 - 0.5 cm
Ladies products lower collar hand sew seam VTI or over the edge finely.
TREATMENT SIDE
If the product has side, podboranky podtraivaet only by tailoring products. Width side on the shoulder of at least 4 cm, at the bottom center of the shelf not less than 3 cm.
The Board need to flash "forward a needle" small, in two rows, starting from the shoulder seam at neckline shelves to the bottom side of the product, first away from the edge by 0.25 cm, then away from the first 0.5 cm of the Thread to pass freely, without pulling the fabric.
Ready primetyvajut collar to the neckline (the middle of the collar coincides with the middle of the back). Podborny face applied to the face of the collar (collar is between the Board products and padbottom), all together primetyvajut from shoulder at neckline through the corner bead to the bottom of the product and prostrachivajut. Cut off the corners of the Board, the Board in turn, Shoe.
The collar on the back free from the outline at the shoulders collar netscout 0.5 cm
Collar turn to face the wrong side and sew by the rules.
The second edge of podportila sew on the machine and in several places attached to the product.
At the request of the Board it is possible to stitch on the machine, away from the edge by 0.25 - 0.5 cm
CUFF
Tailor cuff in half and sew after consideration of the crossbar. Cuffs are sewn so as not to finish to the bottom 0.5 cm (like a collar). The finished cuff is applied to the face line terminations to underside of sleeve and sew. The seam is directed towards the cuff, you tuck the upper cuff 0,5 cm, cover seam and prostrachivajut face in the region. Ladies jewelry cuff is sewn in the hands of VTI. Cuff can be buttoned prometeme loops, buttons, or
cufflinks.
STUDY OF THE STRAPS
Strap № 1. Fig. 156 
Plank No. 1 worked from a single piece of material cut on the share thread. Strap needs to be longer than the incision 2 cm, a width of 4 cm in linen and up to 8 cm in dresses and blouses.
Where will the incision pave the basting.
The middle strap apply face to face to the basting, primetyvajut - prostrachivajut around the outline so that the slit was not wide.
The bar is cut along the basting, turn the seam on the edge. The strap edge buckle and sew VTI, linen can be pretrazivati on the machine. In linen strap sewn there is and its width ready 2 see
Placket No. 2. Fig. 157
Strap No. 2  worked out of two assessed pieces of material - the top and bottom straps. The bottom bracket is longer than the slit 1 cm, width 2 cm Strap put a face to the underside of the products on the right side of the cut in the men's products, from the left to the ladies and sew. Turn the bar on the face of the product, the seam on the edge and sew to the edge of the car. The width of the bottom bracket ready-made 1 see
The top strap is longer than the incision 4 cm, width 6 cm Strap put a face to the underside of the product on the left side of the cut in the men's products, from the right to the ladies and sew.
Turn the bar on the face of the product, the seam is directed toward the bar. From the seam on the strip measured 2 see the Bar bend on the face and from the bending strap takes 2 - 2.5 cm, the remaining bends.
The bottom straps do mysyk (the upper strap should close lower) and prostrachivajut by car in the region, starting from the top to the mysik. According to mysyk above the slit at 0.5 cm make a horizontal line.
Length of strap 2 can be different and depends on the type of product.
Plank No. 3. Fig. 158
Plank No. 3 worked out of two assessed pieces of material - the top and bottom straps. The bottom bracket is longer than the slit 1 cm, width 5 cm Strap put a face to the underside of the products on the right side of the cut in the men's products, from the left to the ladies and sew. Turn the bar on the face of the product, the seam is guided to the strap (the strap lies in the expanded view). From the seam for the strap measure 1.5 cm Strap bend to face and bend strips on the face measure of 2 cm, the remaining part bends and prostrachivajut to the edge of the car.
The top strap is longer than the slit 5 cm, width 7 cm Strap put a face to the underside of the product on the left side of the cut in the men's products, from the right to the ladies and sew. In order for the upper limit to turn there, make nadziejko 1 cm down the middle of the bottom bracket. When nadechka done, turn the top bar on the face of the product and at the same time half of the bottom strap nadechka being moved through the incision. Seam the top plank smooth on two sides (strap lies in expanded form). From the middle of the seam for the strap measure 2 cm, a bend, a crease on the face straps measure 3 cm.The remaining part of the bar that bends, make mysyk and prostrachivajut around by car, away from the edge to 0.25 - 0.5 cm mysyk above the incision of 0.5 cm is the horizontal line, then the whole mysyk strochitsa second line around the edge margins of the first line by 0.25 cm Loop on the strap primetnye vertical, the neck is horizontal.
When Planck worked out, sewn collar.
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