RULES OF TAKING MEASUREMENTS 

For the manufacture of patterns, you must have the following items: centimeter, ruler, pencil and eraser.

In the preparation of patterns plays a major role correctly taken from the shape measurement.

Before taking measurements, it is necessary to encircle the figure of a narrow strap or measuring tape, horizontally at the waist. This is done in order to determine the exact length of the back and front to waist.

The person is removed from the measure, should be free, not to stoop and not to bend, not to carry extra clothing, as incorrectly taken measurement will lead to a distortion of the drawing pattern, and therefore, the product will be stitched incorrectly.

Measurements are usually removed from the right side of the figure and if the figure has any deviations, then you need to take measurements and left.

First shot measurements of length and is written in full, then measurements of the circumferences and recorded in half-size (for example, neck circumference 36 cm, and record 18 cm, etc.). The circumference of the armhole is written completely.

Calculation of points of the drawing of patterns is made from a full circle.

Measurements are taken in the following sequence:

The first measurement is the length of the product. Merc is removed from the 7-th cervical vertebra in the middle back to waist and then to the required length (Fig. 12).

The second measurement is the length of the front. Removed from the 7-th cervical vertebra through the right shoulder at the base of the neck, center of chest (high part) and to a point at the waist, at a distance of 5 cm from mid front. From the length deduct 1/6 of the circumference of the neck and get a clean length products (Fig. 12, a).

The third measurement is the length of the shoulder. Removed from the base of the neck in the middle of the shoulder pad to the shoulder bone (Fig. 12).

The fourth measurement is the neck circumference. Is removed the base of the neck. Tighten and let loose this measure is prohibited. When removing measurements the chin should be slightly upturned (Fig. 12, b).
 

 
The fifth measurement is the circumference of the chest. Removed through the back, shoulder blades, armpits, at the highest part of your chest, placing two fingers (flat) under the breast. The measure does not tighten (adolescent girls and women to take this measure without a bra is impossible).

The sixth measure - waist circumference. Removed tight at the waist.

The seventh measurement is the circumference of the hips. Is removed on the convex areas of the buttocks, the thighs to the front. In the middle of the belly centimeter should be raised slightly.

The eighth measurement is the circumference of the armhole. Is removed the base of the arm, through the shoulder bone; the cm should pull up.

The ninth measurement is the length of the sleeve. Removed at the shoulder bone, through the elbow to half of the hand (hand is in bent condition (Fig. 12).

The tenth scoop - knee-length. Removed from the waist on the side to the knee. One whose measure is removed, have to get my knee on a chair, straighten your figure. Centimeter to pull tight to the chair.

When drawings are used the following abbreviations:
the length of the back long. SP.
shoulder length - long. PL.
sleeve length - long. hands.
front length - long. lane
knee-length - long. to count.
neck circumference - OCD. neck or o neck
the breast - OCD. gr.
the circumference of their hips. ills. or O. ills.
the circumference of armhole - O. Ave. or OCD. St.

RULES of making DRAWINGS of PATTERNS 

To learn how to build drawings of clothes all sizes and styles, you need to learn basic drawing lines and points and their relationship with the human figure.

If you learn the rules of building a single drawing, easily draw the model on any figure, as the basis of the drawing remains the same, changing only the estimated figures, depending on the taken measurements.

Construction drawing, pattern starts from the line of the plan - the horizontal top line of the drawing.

In the drawings the calculated measurements are in centimeters and are called points (point 5, point 7). Points not accompanied by the designation "cm" as it would clutter the drawing. The figures for the calculation point must be near the points or in between. Wrong set point will lead to a distortion of the drawing pattern of the product.

When dividing lines into parts used the sign "x", and this sign is called a point of division.

When making drawings meet the definition of - standard - this is the value that is added to all the dimensions of this item (e.g., a bevel-shoulder, loose fit, etc.). Therefore, having learned the rules of creating one drawing, it is possible to build drawings of patterns of any shape, changing only the estimated value.

For example, the line AB is the plan from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm (for all sizes free fitting and is standard size): chest circumference 48 : 4 + 2 = 14 cm.

If the chest circumference of 52 cm, the line plan comes from the calculation of 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm (fit for all size): bust 52 : 4 + 2 = 15 cm.

After the pattern is made, it is necessary to check and make sure the correct calculations of the lines, proceed to the layout pattern on the material. On patterns necessarily indicate equity, transverse, oblique lines, fold the material, stitching, etc.

the RULES of ADDITION TO the SEAMS

When you cut products must be added to the seams: the line side and the line of the shoulders should be 2 cm; the cut-out openings - 1 cm from the bevel of the shoulder and fades away to the bottom of the armhole (at the bottom of the armhole is not added); in the neck - 1 cm; bending the bottom piece 1 to 6 cm depending on which product is hidden. To the waist line of the blouse to add 2 - 5 cm, waist skirt 1 - 2.5 cm, not more. All the other lines of the slit patterns to add 2 - 4 cm

The pattern on the material to be laid from each other at a distance adding to the seams. (Fig. 13).