For smachivaniya and connect the two parts using various types of seams and stitches. Seams are hand and machine.
Hand-seams and stitches
Joint width depends on the function of the product, seam and fabric properties.
Seams and stitches are a running, copying, blanket stitch, blind stitch, buttonhole, cross stitches "goat", the seam over the edge or the edge, "machine stitch" the seam "behind needle", triangle and others.
A running stitches (Fig. 51 a, b) are used to smachivaniya details, refer to the details of the line of means, education assemblies, etc. Are the stitches from right to left, forward and reverse. Length of thread just keeps 0.5 - 1 cm for thin fabrics and 1 - 3 cm thick.
Copy the stitches (snare) (Fig. 51) are used to transfer the lines to the paired details of after cutting products, as well as to migrate from the right side to the left side of tuck, location of pockets, etc. are Performed from right to left. Length of thread just keeps 1 see When you run the thread just keeps the thread does not stretch to the end and leave a loose loop, then the parts are moved apart and stretch the threads are cut.
Blanket stitch (Fig. 51 g) bonds and seals cut edges of fabric to prevent from fraying.
Blind stitch seam (Fig. 52 a) is used to hold the bent edges of the bottom products (dresses, skirts, jacket, blouses, etc.). Vylivaetsya needle from right to left. First, grab the top fabric in such a way as not to pierce through the fabric, then grab the edge of the top fold of the binder. When you perform a blind stitch seam, the thread should not be strongly tightened. The suture is silk thread the same color as the fabric.
Looped stitches (Fig. 52 b) the process of the buttonhole and overcast stitches loose tissues. The edges of the loops for the buttons were tighter and neater along the slot is laid a thick thread, which is closed overlock stitches. Loop sealed with small stitches. The looped suture is performed from right to left as follows: inject the needle into the fabric from the bottom up (the front side), put the loop-like thread and needle again to stick to the fabric from the top down so that the thread was under the needle and around the needle.
The seam over the edge or the edge (Fig. 52) is used in cases when it is necessary to connect two edges of fabric. Running from left to right, capturing one thread of fabric.
"Machine stitch" (Fig. 52 g). This seam on the front side is very similar to the engine line. It is used in cases when a car is impossible to carry it out. "Machine stitch" as follows from right to left: needle stick in the fabric from top to bottom, make one stitch on the needle and inject in the output of the previous stitches. On the front side of the stitches converge close to each other, and on the wrong side of length equal to one stitches two stitches on the front side.
The seam for the "needle" (Fig. 53 a) is used to smachivaniya details, striped or plaid. Method execution is the same as the "native place", only the stitches are spaced.
Stitches "goat" (Fig. 53 b) hem the bottom of the dress, jacket, skirt, pants, sleeves, collar tight but difficult to spill and the materials - cloth, velvet, crimplene, etc. Form the stitches cross. Running from left to right as follows: the needle pierces the fabric fold from the bottom up, then grab one thread of the fabric so that the stitch was not visible on the front side, again pierces the needle into the ACC, grabbing the full thickness of the tissue, again grab one thread of the main fabric, etc. to the end of the work.
Seam the triangle (Fig. 53) is applied to bond the folds, pockets, sections, etc. is "triangle" as follows: first nametype the contour of a triangle, then fill evenly roofing thread contours of a triangle. In the soft tissues under the triangle on the wrong side filed a piece of lining fabric.
Machine stitches
The machine performs the following types of stitches: bridging, double lapped, oblacno, topstitched, nastroni, naladochnyh, relief, edging, etc. Machine seam runs just below or above the basting thread just keeps, in order not to violate the engine line and is easy to remove basting.
Bridging the seam (Fig. 54 b) is used to connect two parts that fold right sides inwards. Strochitsa the seam on the wrong side and used to connect all parts of the product. The weld is located at a distance from the edge of the fabric. Joint width depends on the fabric and destination of the product.
Double seam (Fig. 54 a) used for sewing of products from thin loose fabrics, for the manufacture of linen. A double seam is performed as follows: the details are folded wrong side inside, the first seam scribble on the front side. Joint width from the trim edge 0,3 cm After first line edging edge podavlivaya, cracked down on two sides and prokatyvaetsja. The second line is performed from the inside and cut edges remain inside the seam. The width of the seam in the finished form of 0.6 - 0.8, see
Lapped seam (Fig. 54) prostrachivajut underwear, sportswear and suits without lining. Running this seam as follows: fold the details right sides inward so that one of the slices was performed at 0.6 cm Grind both the cut on the machine, then straighten the seam on both sides. He cut the folded edge and stitch along the fold. The width of the seam in the finished form of 0.6 - 0.8 cm
seam Oblasnoy (Fig. 54 g) used in the manufacture of bed linen, sheet set, bottom linen and top men's shirts. Is performed as follows: cut the edge folded inside out at first by 0.5 cm, then again at 0.5 - 1 cm, stitch at 0.1 cm from the fold the bent edge of the cutter. This seam can be run on a machine with a special foot, which is installed instead of the regular legs.
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