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Home » Articles » Sew yourself

Shift dress is detailed with a breast tuck and sewn-in sleeve

The choice of fabric for the dress depends on the purpose (casual or dressy), season, age, and characteristics of the shape. In all cases the fabric should be soft, have a low osadochnogo and breathability. 

The style of dress chosen in accordance with fashion, texture and colors of the fabric. Below is a construction drawing of the pattern of the dress, which is the basis for the design patterns of dresses of various styles. 

Construction drawing patterns-the basics (size 46) 

For the creation of the drawing pattern must be removed following measurements (in cm): 

1. Semicircle neck - 18
2. Semicircle chest - 46
3. Semicircle under the breast - 40 
4. Semicircle waist - 36 
5. Semicircle hips - 48 
6. Back length to waist - 38 
7. Dress length - 110 
8. Shoulder width - 13 
9. The distance between the centers of the breast - 18 
10. Sleeve length - 58 
11. Sleeve length to elbow - 34 
12. The semicircle of the wrist - 9
 


Draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 3).

 The length of the dress. From point A down put 110 cm - measure the length of the dress and put the H-point. From this point to the right draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 The depth of the armhole. From point A down set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast, plus 5 cm for all sizes (20.3 cm), and the point G. AG = 46 : 3 + 5 = 20,3 cm

From the point G to the right draw a horizontal line and lay off the measure of the semicircle of the chest plus 4 cm for all sizes (50 cm) and put the point G1. ГГ1 - line of the chest is equal to 50 cm Through the point G1 will draw a vertical line up (randomly) and down to the intersection with the horizontal. The point of intersection will be denoted by H1. 

 The waist line. From point A down put 38 cm - measure the length of the back to the waist and put the point T. From the point T to the right will draw a horizontal line to the intersection with a vertical line and put the point T1. 

 The hips. From point T down put 18 cm - size for all sizes - and the point B. From this point to the right will draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical line. A new point will be denoted by B1. 

 The width of the backrest. From point G right along the chest line put 18.3 cm - 1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm for all sizes - and the point G2. ГГ2 = 46 : 3 + 3 = 18.3 cm 

From the point G2 hold up perpendicular to the intersection with the upper horizontal line. The point of intersection will be denoted by P. 

 the Width of the openings. From a point G2 to the right put the 1/4 measurements of the semicircle of the breast (11.5 cm) and put an end G3. Г2Г3 = 46 : 4 = 11.5 cm 

 Line side. From a point G2 to the right put 3.8 cm (1/3 of the width of the openings) and put a point G4. From this point drop a perpendicular to the intersection with the bottom line. The point of intersection will be denoted by T2 (waist line), B2 (hips) and H2 (lower line). 

The construction of the back 

 Neck. From the point A to the right set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm for all sizes (6.5 cm) and put an end to this sh ASH = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm

Point W up put 2 cm and put an end 2, and from this point an additional 0.5 cm and put an end to SH1. Points A and SH1 will connect with the concave line. 

 The slope of the shoulder, the shoulder line and tuck. From the point P down 2 cm aside and let point 2. From point 2 (neck) through the point 2 (the slope shoulder) draw the line of the shoulder is 13 cm, plus 1.5 cm for the tuck or fit. A new point denoted by P1. 2П1 = 13 at + 1.5 = 14.5 cm.

The shoulder line 2П1 split in half and the point dividing the join point SH1. Along this line, from a point SH1 to the right put a 4 - 5 cm, and from point 4 to 5 right put 1.5 cm (depth of the tuck). From point 4 to 5 put down 5 cm (one side tuck), and then connect to point 5 with a point of 1.5. Along this line, measure out 5 cm (sides tuck should be equal to each other). From point P1 at a right angle postpone 1 cm and connect this point with point 5 (tuck). 

 Line openings. From the point G2, we split the angle in half and over 3 cm, and point G4 up 0.5 cm armhole Line drawn from point 1 (the slope shoulder), referring to the line ПГ2, through points 3 and 0.5. 

 Side seam. From the point T2 to the left put 2 cm From that point and the points B2 and H2 set aside up to 0.5 see the line of the side seam, draw through the point 0.5 (armhole), G4, 0.5 (waist line), 0.5 (hips) and 0.5 (lower line). Points T, B and N connected with points of 0.5. 

 Tuck on the waist line. The line width of the back ГГ2 divide in half. From the dividing point to the left set aside 1 cm. From this point we omit the dashed line to the intersection with the line of the hips and the point B3 and a point of intersection with the waistline marked by points T3. From point 1 down put 6 cm from point B3 up to 5 cm From the point T3 to the left and right set aside 1.5 cm (depth of the tuck). Points 6 and 5 connected to the points of 1.5 (see calculating the depth of the tucks on the waist line). 

The construction of the front 

 Height shelves. From the point G1 put up 24 cm - 1/2 measurements semicircle chest plus 1 cm for all sizes - and the point R2. Г1Ш2 = 46 : 2 + 1 = 24 see 

From point R2 to the left draw a horizontal line of arbitrary length. 

 Neck. From point R2 to the left set aside 6.5 cm - 1/3 measurements of the semicircle neck plus 0.5 cm for all sizes. A new point will be denoted by SH3. Ш2Ш3 = 18 : 3 + 0,5 = 6,5 cm 

From the point ø2 down put 7.5 cm - 1/3 measurements of the semicircle of the neck plus 1.5 see the point Ш4. Ш2Ш4 = 18 : 3 + 1,5 = 7.5 cm.

Point SH3 and Ш4 connected with a dotted line, which divide in half. From the point of division is put 2 cm at right angles to the dotted lines. Point SH3, 2 and Ш4 connecting concave line. 

 The width of shoulder from neck to chest tuck. From the point of SH3 to the left put 4 cm and the point P2. 

 Breast tuck and shoulder line. From the point G1 to the left put 9 cm - 1/2 measurements of the distance between the centers of the breast - and put an end V. Г1В = 18 : 2 = 9 cm.

Points In P2 and connect. Line ПГ2 divide into four equal parts and the first point of division being joined by the dashed line from point P2. From point P2 along the dotted line to the left put 6 cm (the depth of the tuck) and put the point B1. The depth of the tuck is determined by the difference between the size of the semicircle of the breast and the size of the semicircle under the breast: 46 - 40 = 6 cm.

Points In a and B1 connected. From the point In up the line П2В aside the length of the first line tuck BB1 and the point B2. Points B2 and SH3 join. From the point B1 to the left on the dotted line put 9 cm (13 - 4) - measurement of the shoulder width minus the width of shoulder from neck to chest tuck. A new point will be denoted by P3. 

 The width of the shoulder from the chest Darts to the armhole. From point G3 set aside up to 5 cm and get the point 5. Point P3 and 5 connected by a dotted line. From point P3 down on the dotted line put 3 see This point is connected to point B1, and along this line, measure 9 cm (shoulder line). The dotted line from point 3 to point 5 divide in half, and from the points of division at right angle to the right set aside 1 cm and from point G3 set aside 2 cm line, dividing the angle in half. 

The line of openings through the plotted points 9, 1, 5, 2, 0,5.

Line the side seam. From the point T2 to the right put 2 cm and from this point up put 0.5 cm Line side draw through the point 0.5 (armhole), G4, 0.5 (waist line), 0.5 (hips) and 0.5 (lower line). From points T1, B1 and D1 put down 1 see plotting points connect points of 0.5 (see drawing). 

 Front tuck on the waist line. From point b down will have a dotted line to the intersection with the line of the hips. The point of intersection will be denoted by T4 (waist line) and B4 (hips). Point To put down 6 cm and from point B4 up to 5 cm From the point T4 to the left and right set aside 1.5, see Points 6 and 5 is connected to a point 1.5 cm 

 Lateral tuck on the waist line. From point G3 down will have a dotted line to the intersection with the line of the hips. The intersection points denote points T5 and B5. From point G3 put down 6 cm and from point B5 up to 5 cm From the point T5 to the left and right set aside for 1 see Points 6 and 5 connected to the points 1.

If straight dress without Darts at the waist, side seams cut out in a straight line and tuck in the basic pattern are not plotted. 

Construction one-piece, slim sleeves 

To build a one-piece removable sleeves the following measurements (in cm): 

1. Semicircle chest - 46
2. Sleeve length - 58 
3. Sleeve length to elbow - 34 
4. The semicircle of the wrist - 9

Draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 4). 

 Sleeve width. From the point A to the right, put 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast plus 3 cm for all sizes multiplied by 2. A new point will be denoted by R. AR = (46 : 3 + 3) x 2 = 36,7 cm

From point P draw down a vertical line of arbitrary length. Line AR divide into four equal parts. The points of division denoted by P1, P2, P3. Of these points up and down will hold auxiliary lines. 

 The height of the crown. From point P2 up set aside 1/3 of the measurements of the semicircle of the breast minus 1 cm for all sizes. A new point will be denoted by O. Р2О = 46 : 3 - 1 = 14,3 cm 

 sleeve Length. Point O down put 60 cm - yardstick length sleeves plus 2 cm for all sizes. A new point will be denoted by N : HE = 60 cm Through the point N draw a horizontal line and points of intersection will be denoted by H1, H4, H3 and H2. 

 The top part of the sleeve. Point A and connected with a dotted line. The point of intersection with the dotted line denoted by O1. From point P3 put up 5.5 cm and the point O2. Point O and O2 connected by the dotted line that will hold up to the intersection with the line art. From the point of intersection up set aside 1 cm Segments of the dotted lines divide in half, and the points of division denoted by O3, O4 and O5. From these points at right angles to the dotted lines and set aside: from point O3 down 1.5 cm from the point O4, up 2 cm from the point O5 up 2,5 cm

The line of the top part of the sleeves draw through the point A, 1.5, O1, 2, O 2,5, O2, 1, R. Point O is the highest point in the sleeve. 

 The elbow line. Point O down put 34 cm - measurements-length sleeves to the elbow and the point L, in which spend a horizontal line. The point of intersection with the line АН2 will be denoted by L1. 

 Sideline. To determine the width of the wrist will find a difference between the width of the sleeves (line art) and measure the circumference of your wrist plus 2 cm for all sizes: 36,7 - 20 = 16,7 cm 

From the point H1 to the left set aside 5.6 cm (1/3 difference) and the point N5. Н1Н5 = 16,7 : 3 = 5.6 cm.

From point D2 to the right put 2/3 of the difference was 11.1 cm and the point N6.

From the point L1 to the right put 2 cm and the point L2. This point is connected with point a And then point N6 dotted line. Dotted line divide in half. From the dividing point to the left set aside 1 cm at a right angle to the dashed line and the point L3. Sideline conduct through points A, L2, L3 and N6. From the point A2 down put 3 times at 1 cm From these points to the right put at 3 cm and formed by the Darts as indicated on the drawing. From the point of H5 put up 2 cm and put an end to H7. This point is joined with the point P with a dotted line. The point of intersection with the first segment of the line will denote the point L4.From this point to the left set aside 1 cm and the point L5. The second side line conduct through the points R L5 and N7.

 Line the bottom of the sleeves. From point N up set aside 1 cm, and from point N4 up - 2 see Point N6, 1, 2, and H7 connected. 

When cutting sleeves on the crown of allowances to the seams not to do, and on the side lines add 2 cm, hem of sleeve - 0.5 cm.



Category: Sew yourself | Added by: 12.10.2017
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