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Home » Articles » Sew yourself

Transfer tucks

To transfer style lines with print fashion magazine on the main pattern you must consider the style and to determine, on the basis of a pattern developed by cut (the pattern of the basic drawing dresses with set-in sleeve or a soft form, cut at the waist line or cap); the location of the shoulder of tackle and Darts; the shape of the collar or part, surrounding the neck; the position of the waist, form-fitting sleeves, skirt; the location of the shaped lines (symmetric or asymmetric); to determine the location and size of shaped lines on the eyes (visually).

To disassemble the style visually, you must know the location of the constructive lines and their life-size: for example the length of the shoulder, the neck, the depth of the neck line of the chest, waist, hips, bottom, middle, front and rear panels, a side line of the cut, armholes. In addition, define the lines between which and what part is meaningful or shaped line, and a detail figure of the fashion magazine. Then shaped detail on the pattern or the line of podraza put in inches. Drawing can be mentally divided into the same structural lines as the pattern.

As you begin to design styles, you should take the basic pattern in full size (blouseskirtshift dress , etc.), the shape of the cut (set-in sleeve cap). To develop an asymmetric style pattern needs to be expanded, that is, the left and right shelf.

Slub line can pass through the shoulder tuck or lower. In this case, the tuck when applying shaped lines left in place. If the style is associated with the movement of the shoulder tuck, that is contoured, the line crosses the tuck, it is first necessary to move it in the desired direction. Then the pattern with the received tuck to impose on a sheet of paper, to outline and does not cut until there is no developed style, as shaped lines can go beyond the basic patterns (e.g., shift collar). 

General information on moving tucks 

Tuck in dresses and blouses is necessary in order to give the product good shape. Skillful use of Darts gives you the opportunity to obtain various shaped lines. When applying the style lines you need to know the transfer rule Darts. 

To move the tuck in the desired direction (a style) on main pattern to apply a line displacement of the tuck. Lines on the pattern to cut. Close shoulder or side tuck, whereby opening of the new tuck.

Movement tucks in shift dresses, cut at the waist, bodices and dresses soft shapes and skirts produced in the same way. 

Moving the Darts you can get a variety of styles. Depending on the style you can increase or decrease the number of folds or assemblies by cutting the pattern and transferring it in the desired direction or gain fabric when cutting.

Since the pattern may need to remove it separately patterns shelves and the back, which then have to be cut. These patterns mark the place where will be located the new tuck, Flirty, reliefs, cut-out assemblies - all that is required for the model. After that, proceed to transfer Darts. 

 Tuck under the armhole. The distance along the side seam from the armhole to tuck can . to be any. In our example, 3 to 4 cm Put it away, put a dot and connect it with the tuck end (Fig. 8).

Cut the pattern for this new line, the old tuck cut the pins from the wrong side, aligning lines tuck. This will open. new tuck at the side seam.
 


 Tuck in the armhole (relief). Note on the line of openings, where will a new tuck, and connect this point with the tuck end. Cut the pattern along the line (Fig. 9). Old tuck close. Both new Darts and a tuck at the waist connect a smooth line. This will be provided by the feature line elevation. It will be held in the center of the tuck or slightly to the left. Make sure that the lines of the front and a barrel that are sewn together, were equal.
 


 Tuck in the Assembly or pleats at the yoke. In the pattern close the tuck and apply the line of the yoke, the shape and its size vary by model. The yoke cut (Fig. 10). The rest of the shelves, open tuck, gather it into a Assembly, or spread on some soft folds. If that's not enough (say you want to do assemblies or folds more than the rest tuck), cut the pattern to the bottom and spread. 

 Tuck in the neck. If the Assembly model is located on the neck, then tuck transfer to the neck. On the line of the neck closer to the middle of the front a dot and connect it with the tuck end (Fig. 11). Cut along this line, close the old dart. To Assembly was more cut the pattern from the neck down and pull the top part of the shelves. You can add and at the line of mid front. 

If the cutout needs to be big, mark the line of the cut prior to the transfer of Darts, and then transfer it to the new line of the neck.
 


 Tuck on the line of mid front. Sometimes in the Assembly model are in the line of mid front, then tuck should be moved here (as a rule, but here is a seam). To do this, select a point on the line of the middle of the front (Fig. 12), it connects with the end of the tuck, etc in the middle of the front seam, this line should be smooth.
 


 Tuck on the waist line. Lower, under the waist tuck connect with the main extending from the shoulder (Fig, 13). Then the basic closed tuck, and the bottom cut in the middle. In jackets free form this moved to the waist tuck is not zastrugivajut, and leave open, as in the proposed model.
 


 Tuck in the drape. If the model is draped asymmetrically, to simulate the need on both shelves.
 


Make full pattern of the front (Fig. 14). Mark the line of cut of the right shelves, extra cut. The dart coming from the waist, then connect the end of the main Darts. Close all tucks in the direction in which to drape the fabric from the main guide line of the Darts and cut a pattern, and tuck moved. 

In blouses of this style is usually both equally shelves are cut and bottom stitched wide waistband ties at side. 

Dresses left shelf cut with a tuck at the waist, without draping.



Category: Sew yourself | Added by: 12.10.2017
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