SHIRT
Shirt without slits (Fig. 18) more practical, she closes the chest and back of the child. Drawing shirts is very simple. The line of the back and front are identical, except for the neck. The neckline of the front is deeper.
Drawing back and front
The drawing of the shirt (Fig. 19) should draw a rectangle, the vertical sides equal to the length of the shirt and horizontal - half the width of the shirt. The corners of the rectangle denoted by the letters A, B, G, V.
the Line of openings. Point To the left horizontally to defer 1.5 cm and place the point E. the Point E to connect with point D a smooth curve line. This line should extend upwards from point e, 5 cm and put an end E.
Neckline and shoulder cut of the back. From point A down the vertical to defer 1/5 cut lengths VD and to put the point W, which indicates the depth of the neck. Then the point W to connect with a smooth curve from E.
Neckline and shoulder cut of the front. From a point Well down vertically to defer 1.5 cm. the resulting point is also connected to point A smooth semicircular line.
Line the middle. Indicated by the vertical line AB.
Drawing sleeves
In the drawing the sleeves should draw a rectangle ABGW (Fig. 20). The vertical line of the rectangle is equal to length of sleeve, and the horizontal half width of the sleeves.
Line the top part. From point To bottom vertically to postpone 1/3 of the length AB and place a point D. Then a point to connect with point D of a smooth semi-circular line, as shown in the figure.
The line of the cut. From point G to the left horizontally to postpone 2 cm Obtained point to connect with point D a straight line. This line will be the line of the cut sleeve.
For drawing the sleeves completely, you need to take a double sheet of paper, bend it in half along the line AB - mid-sleeves and a dotted line applied to the second portion of the sheet of the drawing half of the sleeve. Thus it is possible to obtain a drawing of the sleeve entirely.
Cutting shirts
For shirts, as undershirts with a slit at the back or on the front, it is recommended to use a fabric thin and soft.
Before the reveal you need to make a pattern, scissors, pins, chalk, and other necessary facilities. The fabric should be carefully straightened and well ironed.
The fabric at one edge to fold in half lengthwise, and then fold to lay out the pattern so that the shoulder line of the back met with the shoulder line of the front. When cutting fabric, you must consider allowances: 2 cm for joint seams of the shirt and the seams of sleeves and 0.5 cm for the seam at the neck (Fig. 21).
The pattern sleeve is placed on a single fabric, as shown in Fig. 21. After careful nesting of the pattern on the fabric should be attached with pins to the fabric, cut around the parts with chalk, then cut out the fabric.
Tailoring shirts
Cut out detail on back and front a running stitch outline line middle.
The back is put on before the lines of the armholes of the back and front in the top of the bottle.
Back connect with front patch seam by hand or machine.
Neckline and edge of the front of the line of the shoulders neatly sutured bake or scalloped rolikam.
Bottom of sleeves and shirt hem manually narrow seam itagiba or crochet round. When you execute the stitches bodybu recommended fabric to bend on the front side of the sheet so that the seams didn't bother the child. With the same purpose, it is necessary to execute the seams straight, without any bends, to meet the main lines of cutting.
On the front of the shirt at the neck, you can make a simple embroidery or monogram with white thread or thread in the color of the shirt.
SHIRT FOR GIRLS
Shirt (Fig. 22) designed for girls older than 1 year. For the construction of the pattern of the shirt requires the following measurements in cm:
Shirt length .............. 34
The circumference of the chest ......... 56
The measurement data is designed for children 1 year of age. With increasing age of children of 1 year to the length measurement and add 2 cm, and the width measurements at 4 cm.
The shirt consists of two parts: back and front. Since the lines of both parts are the same except the depth of the cut, then build the drawing.
Drawing shirt
The drawing of the pattern you need to draw a rectangle. Vertical lines equal to the length of the shirt, and the horizontal line is equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm Rectangle should be designated by letters of ABHV (Fig. 23).
The line of the shoulder cut. To build this line from the point To the left horizontally to delay period equal to 1/2 of the line AB, and place a point D. From point D to the left horizontally to defer 3 cm and place the point E. Distance ED is the width of the shoulder. The shoulder width must be divided in half and from the middle vertically to defer up 1 see the resulting point connect the straight lines with points E and D. If the shoulders are rounded, and the upper point is connected to the points E and D smooth, rounded lines.
The curved neckline of the front. From point A down the vertical to postpone the segment equal to the segment AD, and put a point J. the Point W to connect with the point E, a smooth curve line. This will be the line of the neck front.
The curved neckline of the back. From point F upward to defer 2.5 cm and place the point 3. Combining a smooth curve line of points 3 and E, get a line cutout backless.
Line openings. From point To bottom vertically to postpone the cut, equal cut as MUCH as plus 1 cm, and put the point I. Point And connect the point D with a smooth curve line, so get a line of the armhole front and back of the shirt.
The line side of the slice. Horizontal line BG extend to the right and to postpone the cut is about 1/3 cut BG minus 1 cm; the resulting point to connect a straight line with a point I.
the bottom Line. To the bottom of the shirt was smooth, it is necessary to round off. With this purpose, from the right end of the lower horizontal line to postpone up to 2 cm at the line side of the slice. The obtained point linking is slightly convex curve from the curve B. This will be the line of the bottom of the shirt.
Line the middle of the front and back. The middle of the shirt marked in the figure line AB. Line ZB is the middle of the back, and the line RC - the middle of the front.
It must be remembered that the patterns front and back are cut separately, as the depth of the neckline for front and back uneven.
Cutting and sewing shirts
For shirts, use a thin and soft cloth (marshmallow, Nancy, etc.).
As before we will open as early models of shirts, in this case, you need to prepare in advance the necessary tools and prepare the fabric for cutting.
At raskroe it is necessary to provide allowances: 1.5 cm along the lines of the armholes, 1 cm at the shoulder sections and neck and 2 cm for all other slices.
The pattern laid out on fabric, as indicated in Fig. 24. The fabric pre-fold double face inward. When folding the fabric you need to focus on the widest part of the pattern.
The line of mid front and back feature on the fold line of the fabric. The back and front at the shoulder sections have closely, considering only the allowances of the fabric for seams. With this method of laying patterns ensures maximum saving of fabric.
The execution of the cutting is the same as for the above clothes.
The tailoring of this shirt is simple. Side and shoulder seams smatyvay and grind, and then rautureau or spread on two sides. Edging edges are overcast by hand over the edge whipstitching.
Shoulder seams front and back grind obrazkami of shirt fabrics, piping giving way on the wrong side and edge straighten. Then the shoulder region of the backrest is applied to the front.
Neck and armhole front and back and shoulder seams can be finished with colored piping or lace.
From the back at the shoulder edge, sew buttons, and the front primetyvajut loop at a distance of 5 cm from the shoulder edge or sew a button.
Buttons and button-sew, after finishing in the middle of the shoulder.
The neckline of the front of the shirt can be finished with elegant embroidery or monogram.
SHIRT WITH A UNDERCUT FOR GIRLS
Model shirts for girls a variety of. They can be with different cuts, pleats.
In Fig. 25 presents a model shirt with undercuts.
Construction drawing of this shirt differs from simple shirts only build lines podraza (Fig. 26).
The first line of podraza. From point And postpone down the line the side seam of 3 - 6 cm and place the point of K. From this point, hold the left curved line to the vertical passing through the middle of the shoulder, 3 to 4 cm above the point and put the point L.
the Second line of podraza. From point to set aside down the line of the side seam 2 see the resulting point is connected to point L slightly convex line. Then the line to extend to the right by 1/2 of the segment KL. The end of the line denoted by the letter M (the elongation of this line is necessary in order to make assemblies). From point M draw a line parallel to the lateral cut to the intersection with the horizontal line BG. This is a new line of side cut shirts.
Line the bottom of the shirt. This line runs horizontally, it does not round off and the line side of the slice is not shortened because it is already cropped on the top line podraza.
Cutting and tailoring day shirt with undercuts are basically the same as a simple shirt, with the exception of the processing assemblies along the line of undercuts. Assembly is performed as follows: after cutting the shirt namachivajut a running stitch line of the middle of the front and back, the bottom edge of podraza gather in the Assembly, paving hand stitches. The Assembly can be positioned in groups or to evenly distribute and consolidate. Cut edge is overcast by hand.
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