NIGHTGOWN
Nightgown sew usually wide and long, so it does not restrict movement and well-covered the child's body.
Nightgown (Fig. 63) sew for children 3 years and older for both girls and boys. Tailoring shirts is very simple. Sew it with sleeves or sleeveless chiffon, cotton, marshmallow, etc.
Shirt consists of the back, front, sleeves, cuffs and collar.
The drawing nighties take the following measurements: length of shirt for girls 65 cm; for boys 55 cm; shoulder width 24 cm; the chest circumference 60 cm, neck circumference 26 cm; length short sleeves 14 cm, length 25 long, sleeves cm, sleeve width 26 cm; circumference of the brush 20 cm
These measurements are designed for children 3 years of age. Nightgowns for girls sew is usually wide and long. Shirts are very simple: with collar, round neck, with embroidery or birdies (Fig. 64), with short or long sleeves.
In Fig. 65 depicts a night shirt with a collar. Drawstring at collar, sleeves long with cuffs. This shirt can also be sewing the sleeveless and collarless square or round neck.
Drawing back
To construct a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 66).
The first auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the length of the shirt and put the point B. From point B to defer the right horizontal line.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the neck circumference plus 2 cm, and put the point B. From this point to the right, draw a horizontal line.
Neck. From point A down the vertical to postpone 1 cm and Then from point A to defer to the right on a horizontal line, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck, and put an end A. The resulting point is connected to point A concave line. This will be the neck.
The line of the shoulder cut. Point To the right horizontally to delay period equal to 1/2 of the width of the back plus 1 cm, and put the point G. From point G draw a vertical line to the horizontal line passing through the point A. From the point of intersection to defer down vertically 0.5 cm and place the point of D. Then connect the point D with the point A a straight line. This line extend to the right by 1 cm and put an end D.
The line side of the slice. Point To the right horizontally to delay period equal to half the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm, and put an end G. From the point G to lower the vertical dashed line to the intersection with the first auxiliary line. From the point G down vertically to postpone the cut, equal to 1/8 of the circumference of the neck, and put an end words of the first auxiliary line to the right of the vertical dotted line for a distance, equal to 1/8 of the circumference of the chest plus 4 cm, and put the point Z. Connect point g to point E by a straight line. Then connect the dots D, G and E by a curve, as shown in the figure.
The bottom line is. To postpone 1 cm from a point Well up the line a HEDGEHOG. Received point to connect with a smooth curve line with point B. This line is the line of the bottom of the shirt.
A drawing of the front
To construct a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 67).
The first auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to the length of the back, plus 2 cm, and put the point B.
Through point B to the left, draw a horizontal line.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the circumference of the neck plus 3 cm and put in point B. From point b to the left, draw a horizontal line.
Line of the neck. From the point A to the left horizontal to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm, and put an end A. Also from point A to defer down the vertical cut is 1/6 neck circumference plus 5 cm Obtained point to connect with point A a smooth curve line. This neckline is suitable for shirt with collar.
The line of the shoulder cut. Draw a horizontal dotted line at a distance of 3 cm from the horizontal passing through the point A. draw an arc with center at point A solution equal to the length of the shoulder cut of the back. The intersection with the dotted line denoted by the point G. Then connect the dots A and G by a straight line. AG line will be the line of the shoulder cut.
The line side of the slice. From point b to delay the left horizontal segment is equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 6 cm. From the obtained point to draw a vertical line up to its intersection with the first auxiliary line. On a vertical line from the top point down to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm, and put the point D. Then, the first auxiliary line to continue beyond a vertical line for a distance, equal to 1/8 of the circumference of the neck plus 6 cm Obtained point to connect with point D a straight line. This line will be the line side of the slice.
Line openings. Point D connected to point G by a smooth curve line, as shown in the figure.
The bottom line is. To defer 1.5 cm up the line side of the slice and put a point E. the Point E to connect with B a smooth curve line.
Drawing sleeves
To build a rectangle ABGW (Fig. 68). Lines AB and VG is equal to the length of the sleeve, the lines AB and BG is equal to half the width of the sleeve plus 1 cm Rectangle to build in the left half of the sheet of paper at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the sheet.
Line of the crown. From point To bottom vertically to delay period equal to half AB plus 1 cm, and put the point D. the Point D to connect with the point And the straight dotted line. Then spend through points A and D at a distance of 2 cm from the middle of the two curves. Concave line is the line lifts the shoulders in front, convex line of the top part of the sleeve of the back side.
Line of the side cut. From point G to the left horizontally to postpone 2 cm, the resulting point is connected to point D by a straight line.
The bottom line is. On the line side of the slice to postpone 1 cm from the horizontal line BG up. This point to connect with a smooth curve from point B. This will be the line of the bottom of the sleeves. Line mid sleeve indicated by line AB.
Drawing cuffs
To build a rectangle ABGW (Fig. 69), one side of which is equal to the semicircle brushes plus 2 cm, and the other 2 see
the Drawing of the collar lapels
To build a rectangle ABGW (Fig. 70). One side of the rectangle equal to the length of the neck backless, plus the length of the neck of the front and minus 1 cm.
The other side of the rectangle is equal to 4 - 5 cm
Line of the neck. From point B to defer up to 5 cm vertically. Received point to connect with a smooth curve line with the point G.
the angle of the collar. Continue the horizontal line AB to the right by 1 cm and obtained point to connect with point G a straight line. The same line to continue up to 2 cm. Obtained point to connect point A smooth curve.
Cutting and sewing nightgowns
Fabric fold double common thread. The pattern of the shirt is placed on the fabric, as shown in Fig. 71. Front and back are placed at a distance of 3 cm from each other so that the lines of the mid-coincided with the fold of the fabric. The sleeves are laid out on single fabric common thread.
Among the main items on the fabric, you can lay small pattern pieces of the shirt such as the collar and cuffs.
At raskroe it is necessary to leave allowances: 1.5 cm for the side sections of the front, back and sleeves and 1 cm sections of the collar and cuffs. Then the fabric is cut along the cut lines overlap.
Before sewing the shirt you must carefully check the compliance side and shoulder sections of the front and back, then combine these slices lapped seam.
The bar at the front performed as follows: cut the front of the shirt down from the neck for 10 - 15 cm; double strap of the same material; at the top of the neck on both sides overcast strap with two loops for laces odergivaniya (Fig. 72, 73).
Shirt collar do double. It turned an ordinary bridging or double suture. Collar after grinding turn on the front side, spawn on the edge and priorivet. Collar umatyvaet in the neck of the shirt, strictly combining lines of the middle of the shirt and collar. Stachivaya collar in the neckline with bias binding, which is then sutured with stitches hidden or scribbled on the car.
Smatyvay sleeve first and then sew. The bottom of the sleeves gather into the Assembly along the length of the cuff. The length of the cuff is equal to the circumference of the brush plus 3 to 4 cm primetyvajut Stitched the cuff to the sleeve, placing her face on the front side of the sleeve, pritachivajut then, bent on the wrong side of sleeves and hem hidden steakly to the seam primaqiune or scribbled on the car.
Umatyvaet sleeve into armhole, aligning the middle of the crown with shoulder seam and slightly propositiva the top part of the sleeve.
The bar in the middle of the front fastened with buttons or tied ribbons.
NIGHTGOWN YOKE
Nightgown yoke (Fig. 74) beautiful and practical. She hugs the child's body and at the same time does not restrict his movements. Flirty shirt can be straight or curly, collar with straight or rounded corners. In the middle of the front make a small strap, which is knotted at the laces. The sleeves are long with cuffs.
Cutting this shirt perform in the same way as the previous cutting of the shirt, i.e. by the same pattern with some changes to the drawing before the back and collar. Sleeves and cuffs cut and sew, as mentioned above.
Drawing back
First you need to perform the drawing of a night shirt with a collar (see Fig. 66). Then make some changes and additions.
Cutting line of the yoke. Line of VG (Fig. 75) what is the cutting line of the yoke.
For the formation of assemblies on the back of the line of joining the Basque with back from the points In B and extend a horizontal line to the left by 10 - 15 cm. the resulting points are linked by a vertical line, which will be the middle of the back.
A drawing of the front
A drawing of the front (Fig. 76) shirts built as well as the drawing of a night shirt with a collar (see Fig. 67), then make some additions.
Cutting line of the yoke. To postpone 1 cm up through the openings from a horizontal line passing through the point V. the resulting point to connect with a smooth curve line with point B. This line will be the line of the cut yoke, which can be straight, round and curved.
Line of the neck. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm. Obtained point to connect with A smooth curve line.
The width of the front of the shirt increased, extending to the right horizontal line of dots In a and B for 12 - 17 see the resulting points are linked by a vertical line that will line the middle of the front.
The drawing of the collar
The drawing of a straight collar (Fig. 77) you can use the drawing given in Fig. 70.
Line of the neck. From point B postpone 1 cm upward. The resulting point is connected to point G of a smooth concave line.
Line the middle of the collar. It is indicated by the vertical line AB. The angles of the collar can be rounded or sharp.
To obtain an acute angle of the collar, draw a horizontal line from a point In the right length of 2 cm, the resulting point is connected to point G a straight line.
Cutting nighties
Nightgown yoke cut out in the same way as an ordinary shirt, except for the yoke.
As already mentioned, the Basque are straight, round and curved. To cut out the coquettes are the main pattern on which to apply the cut line of the yoke.
When cutting all the pattern pieces laid out on fabric, primetyvajut or attached with pins. Then lead round contours of the pattern. Seam: shoulder and side sections of 1.5 - 2 cm, bottom yoke and the top sections of the shirt 1 - 2 cm for hemming on the bottom 4 - 5 cm.
Line the middle of the yoke must pass the common thread of the fabric.
If the front yoke is fastened (see Fig. 78), the leave allowance for a simple yoke of 3.5 cm and for double yoke - 2 cm.
If the front yoke knotted, then cut allowances for a single yoke to 1.5 cm and for double yoke - 0.5 cm.
Sewing nightgowns
Sewing night dresses on the yoke is the same as the ordinary sewing nightgowns, with the exception of Basque.
After cutting namachivajut the middle of the back, shelves, coquette and the middle of the armhole.
For the formation of assemblies lay two lines. The first line is laid at a distance of 1 cm from the trimmed edge, the second at a distance of 0.5 cm from the first. The Assembly is uniformly distributed. Then folded the bottom of the yoke and primetyvajut it. Harvested yoke put on the front, aligning the middle of the yoke to the middle of the front, and primetyvajut. Also primetyvajut the yoke to the back. Then tacked on the yoke front and back scribbled.
If the yoke of double, you should connect with the basic details and lining. Usually do a double yoke for greater strength and maintain the shape.
Shoulder and side sections smatyvay of the back side and grind from the side shelves.
Sleeve smatyvay, and then grind. At the bottom of the sleeve performs the Assembly. Assembly is distributed so that at the elbow there were more. The bottom of the sleeve should be equal to the length of the cuff. Then primetyvajut the cuff to the sleeve, placing her face on the front side of the sleeve.
Umatyvaet sleeve into armhole, aligning the middle of the crown with shoulder seam and propositiva sleeve oblique slices.
Next, grind off the collar with podvorotnya, turn stefanny collar on the front side and spawn edges. Collar umatyvaet in the neck of the shirt, aligning the middle of the collar to the middle of the back. Then primetyvajut the bias tape.
Stachivaya collar with piping. Bake sew from the inside of the shirt concealed stitches.
The bottom of the shirt to straighten, bends at 2 - 3 cm, zametyvayut and sew hidden stitches. All seams are overcast and rautureau.
The yoke prostrachivajut double stitching or decorate with a shuttlecock (Fig. 78). A shuttlecock can be made from other tissue.
NIGHT SHIRT FOR BOY
Nightgowns for boys simple, without additional components. Shirts for boys long sleeves can be short or long (Fig. 79).
Drawing nighties
Drawing night shirt for boys is no different from drawing shirts for girls.
On the back (Fig. 80) when building line of the side cut is necessary to extend the horizontal line passing through point B, to the right of the vertical line passing through the point E, for a distance equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the waist plus 1 cm.
In the drawing of the front (Fig. 81) the line extends to the left of the vertical line passing through the point D on the segment equal to 1/4 of the semicircle of the breast plus 2.
Cutting and sewing nightgowns
Cutting and sewing shirts for boy remain the same as cutting and sewing shirts for girls, with the exception-handling section of the front.
The left side is given allowance for the clasp 15 - 20 see a Shirt button on the left side to the right. The collar usually do direct.
Shirt for boy decorated with embroidery, lace. On the left side of the shirt sometimes only doing a small monogram.
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