BABY DRESS
If when sewing children's clothes may be some inaccuracies in the cutting and a slight deviation from these methods of sewing, then cutting and sewing children's dresses and outerwear requires great accuracy and attentiveness to the product well sit on the figure. A small misalignment, excessive neckline unsuccessfully laid pleat or wrongly sewn button can ruin the appearance of the product.
Dress manufacturer requires more labour than production of linen. For linen, it is sufficient to have measurements of the length and circumference of the breast. For dresses also need much more measurements, which allow to construct a more accurate drawing of the product.
For children over 1 year of sew the following items: dress for girls, pants and shirts for boys, baby onesies, hats, costumes, etc.
Each product has its own purpose. One protects the baby from cold, more rain, and the third is from the heat etc. Therefore, for each time of year, it is recommended to sew certain garments. It is necessary carefully not only to cut and sew the product, but also to choose a fabric.
The most popular models of dresses for girls 1 to 3 years of age are dresses on the yoke (Fig. 104). These dresses are sewn from satin, silk or warmer fabric is fustian, flannel or soft wool. This dress consists of four main parts: the yoke, skirt and two sleeves. The skirt can be smocked, pleated, klesheva, wedges, etc. Flirty dresses may be straight or curly.
The neck of the dress may be collarless or with collar. The line of the yoke and the bottom of the dress can be finished with lace, braid or embroidery. Dresses can be long sleeved cuffs or without cuffs, with short sleeves or no sleeves.
The drawing of the dress at the yoke for girls in age 1 take the following measurements: dress length 35 cm; shoulder width 20 cm; bust 56 cm; sleeve length: short 12 cm, long 22 cm; circumference of the brush 16 cm
With increasing age girls of 1 year add on all the measured Yam 2 cm apart from the circle of the breast, to which is added 4 see
the DRESS AT the YOKE WITH PLEATS
Dress (Fig. 105) on the yoke with soft pleats for girls up to 3 years, elegant and practical.
Video Flirty dresses trimmed with binding. Round collar with ribbons for tying. Short sleeves, narrow cuffs. The bottom of the dress and embroidered front yoke.
Drawing dresses consists of the following parts: back, front, sleeves and collar.
Drawing back
Back of the dress consists of yoke and skirt, which were built drawings on a single sheet of paper.
In the left side of a sheet of paper, approximately 20 cm from the edge, you need to draw a right angle and label it with the letter a (Fig. 106).
The first auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to the length of the dress, and put a point B. From point B to hold right horizontal line that will line the bottom of the dress.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the circumference of the neck, and put the point B. Through the point draw a horizontal line, which is also the cut line of the yoke.
Line of the neck. From point A to defer to the right on a horizontal line, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck, and put an end A. Also from point A to defer down vertically 1 cm. Obtained point to connect with point A smooth concave line that forms the neck.
The line of the shoulder cut. Point To the right horizontally to delay period equal to half the width of back plus 1 cm, and put the point G. From point G to hold up a vertical dotted line. From the point of intersection of this dotted line with the upper horizontal line to delay down 3 inches and put a point D. Connect point D with point A a straight line, then extend that line to the right by 1 cm, the resulting point is denoted by the letter D.
Line the openings of the yoke. Connect the dots G and G by a curve, as shown in the figure.
Line the bottom of the yoke. This line passes through the points In and It can be straight or with angles depending on the shape of the yoke.
Line the bottom of the yoke from an acute angle. From point b (Fig. 107) down vertically to postpone 3 cm and place the point B. Connect point B with point d as a curved line which will line the bottom of the yoke.
Line the bottom of the round yoke. To connect the car D from a point on a curve, as shown in Fig. 108.
Line the bottom of the yoke with two corners. From point b (Fig. 109) to the right horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/4 of the width of the back minus 1 cm. Through the obtained point to draw a vertical line where you defer down 3 inches and put a dot B. Then connect point b with points B and G with soft curves.
The middle of the back is indicated by the vertical line AB.
Located below the yoke the skirt of the dress. The drawing of the skirt (see Fig. 106) build in the following way.
Line folds. Continue the left line VG and the horizontal line passing through point B, by a length equal to half the width of the back. Plotting points to connect a vertical line, which, in addition, will line the middle of the back.
Line of the side cut. From points To B and to the right horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm the Set point to connect the dotted vertical line. From the top end of this line to delay period equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm, and to deliver the letter E. the Bottom horizontal line to continue to the right in dotted lines at 5 cm and put the point J. Connect points F and g the straight line which is the line side of the slice.
Line the top edge of the skirt. This line runs along a horizontal line of VG, including the extension to the crease, and can be changed depending on the yoke.
Line the bottom of the dress. From a point Well up the line side of the slice to postpone 1 see Obtained point to connect with a smooth curve from point B.
the Drawing of the front
In the drawing the front (Fig. 110) you need in the right side of the sheet of paper to draw a right angle and label it with the letter A.
the First auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to the length plus 2 cm, and put a point B. From point B to hold the left horizontal line.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the circumference of the chest plus 1 cm, and put a point B. From point b, draw a horizontal line. This line indicates the line of the yoke.
Line of the neck. From the point A to the left horizontal to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put an end A. Also from point A to defer down the vertical cut is 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1.5 cm Obtained point to connect with point A a smooth curve line, which will be the neck.
The line of the shoulder cut. To hold the dotted horizontal line at a distance of 3 cm below the upper horizontal line. Then draw an arc with center at point A solution equal to the length of the shoulder backless minus 0.5 cm, and at the intersection of the arc with a dotted horizontal line to put the point G Connecting point G with point A. AH line is the line of the shoulder cut.
Line openings. Point To the left horizontally to delay period equal to half the width of back plus 2cm and put an end to D. then Connect the point d with the point D slightly concave line, which will be the line of openings of the yoke.
Line the bottom of the yoke. This line passes through the points D and b, may be straight, with angles, or a curve depending on the shape of the yoke (see Fig. 107, 108, 109).
The middle of the yoke. The middle of the yoke is indicated by the vertical line AB.
Line folds. From points To B and hold right horizontal lines on which to delay periods is equal to the width of the back plus 2. plotting points to connect with a vertical line, which will also be a line mid skirt.
Line of the side cut. From points B and C to the left horizontally to postpone periods is equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 3, see plotting points to connect with a vertical line. From the upper end of this line to defer down the vertical cut is 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm, and supply point E. the Lower horizontal line to continue to the left by 7 cm beyond a vertical line and place the point of J. then Connect point E with point F a straight line which is the line side of the slice.
Line openings. Connect the points E, D and G by a curve, as shown in the figure.
The top line of the skirt. It is indicated by the horizontal line DV, which is slightly rounded respectively to form the yoke. You need to set aside 1 cm from point D down the line of the armhole. From the received points to spend right smooth curve line to point B.
The bottom line is. From a point Well up the line of side seam to postpone 1 cm, the resulting point is connected to point B of a smooth curve line, which will be the bottom line.
Drawing sleeves
In the drawing the sleeves need to draw a rectangle, one side of which is equal to the length of the sleeve, and the second - half of the sleeve width plus 2 cm the rectangle is denoted by the letters A, B, G, (Fig 111).
Auxiliary line. From point To bottom vertically to delay period equal to half the segment AB plus 2 cm, and put a point D. From point D to hold the left horizontal dashed line to the intersection with line AB.
Line openings. Point a connect with point D of two smooth curves, as shown in the drawing. Armhole sleeves of the back side located 1 cm below the dotted line.
Line the side seam. From the point G to the left horizontally to postpone 2 see the resulting point is connected to point D of the inclined line, which will line the side seam of the sleeve.
Line the bottom of the sleeves. To postpone 1 cm from point G up. The resulting point is connected to point B of a smooth curve line.
Construction drawing of a long sleeves is the same as short sleeves. Changing only the sleeve length.
Drawing cuffs
The cuff has the shape of a rectangle, its length equal to the circumference of the brush plus 3 - 4 cm, width 2 cm in the drawing cuffs need to draw a rectangle. The corners of the rectangle are designated by letters of ABHV (Fig. 112).
Line the middle of the cuff indicated by the vertical line AB.
The angle cuffs long sleeves to build, dividing into two equal parts a segment of VG. Then from the midpoint to the right VG to postpone 1 see Obtained point to connect points C and d by straight lines. Cuff short sleeves has a shape of a rectangle.
The drawing of the collar
Before you build drawing of the collar need details of a yoke to connect the shoulder line and put on paper the neckline, and mark the middle front and back yoke. Within the built line of the neck to build the collar (Fig. 113). Line the middle of the collar passes through the middle of the back.
Line neck collar. The line between the middle back and middle front of yoke, is half of the neckline.
The outer line of the collar. Postpone 4 - 5 cm from the neck through the mid back. Through this point to draw a curved line parallel to the neckline from mid front yoke.
The angles of the collar can be sharp, dull, rounded.
Cutting dresses
Before you reveal the fabric fold double common thread. Pattern pieces (Fig. 114) laid out on the fabric, leaving large gaps of fabric between the parts. It should be remembered that equity fabric thread should pass along the details. The details of the flirts and skirts are placed mid-line along the fold of the fabric. Cuff it is desirable to find a common thread, and trims. The sleeve can't be folded in half, as his side are not symmetrical.
The collar can carve out one piece or two piece depending on the model of the dress. Stachivaya collar in the neckline with a facing, which should be cut out in the oblique direction of the threads of the fabric. The width of the piping is 2 - 3 cm, and length equal to the circumference of the neck.
When cutting the edges of the parts leave allowances: 1.5 cm for the line of the neck; 2 cm for seams; 6 - 10 cm on ACC bottom; 1 cm at the edges of the collar, cuffs and hem sleeves.
Dress
When sewing the dress at the yoke, special attention should be paid to the connection of Basque with the skirt, hem and trim and Flirty dresses, other operations of the sewing is simple and was described above.
First of all you need for the top slice skirts to assemble the Assembly so that the length of the upper edge of the skirt is equal to the length of the cut of the yoke.
The lower section of yoke front bends 1 cm and primetyvajut to the skirt. Also connect the yoke and skirt of the back. Smatyvay pre-folds, and a seam allowance at the yoke line of the back bends inside out and zametyvayut.
If the front yoke notched (see Fig. 107, 109), the corners of her grind podkralas the facing. Then you tuck the seam allowance inside and primetyvajut the yoke to the skirt by combining lines of the middle and armholes. After joining the Basque with the skirt need to sweep the side and shoulder seams. Next, sew the pleats, scribbled the yoke at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, sew side and shoulder seams, overcast them, iron the seams to one side, sew the bottom of the dress.
Then grind the collar, turn it on its front side, spawn edges, priorivet collar. Umatyvaet collar to the neck of the dress, combining the line of mid front and back. Then primetyvajut the bias tape.
Stachivaya collar in the neckline dress with piping. The bias tape stitched from the back yoke concealed stitches. Then sew the sleeves on the side of cut, the seams are overcast and autogiant, gather the bottom edge of the sleeves on a string along the length of the cuffs. Pritachivajut the lower cut of the cuff to the sleeve, folding the front side podmenili with cuff sleeves, then cut the cuff bends 0.5 cm and scribbled. The cuff can also be pricecat to the sleeve, placing her face on the front side of the sleeve, while pacmangame bends and sew hidden stitches.The top part of the sleeve gather on a thread and umatyvaet in armhole of the dress from the sleeves. Thus it is necessary to combine the middle of the crown with shoulder seam. Then stachivaya sleeves, overcast seams vrachevanie.
Shoulder and side sections smatyvay of the back side and grind from the side shelves.
The clasp of the dress perform in the middle back or middle front.
The bottom of the dress is trimmed when fitting, bends, zametyvayut and sew hidden stitches.
The yoke and skirt of dress can be decorated with embroidery.
Baby dresses made of thin fabric you can sew sleeveless or with a small birdies instead of sleeves (Fig. 115). The skirt of this dress is attached to the piping with a minimum width of 5 cm This dress is designed for summer.
Note. Pleats and ruching on the skirt of the dress can be distributed evenly across the width of the yoke or in groups.
|