COAT
Coat sewn from different materials: woolen fabric, cloth, plush, velvet, and fur. All winter coats are made of quilted fabric or fur and the lining. Model, children's coat can be a variety of styles.
The drawing of coat patterns, is shown in Fig. 144, you need the following measurements: coat length 36 cm; back width 20 cm; bust 56 cm; neck circumference 20 cm; sleeve length 24 cm, sleeve width 23 cm; circumference of the brush 12 see, These measurements are designed for children aged 1 year. For children over 1 year of measurements increases proportionally.
Coat consists of details: backless, shelves, two sleeves, collar and pocket.
Drawing back
In the left corner of the paper you should draw a right angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 145).
The first auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to the length of coat plus 1 cm, and put the point B. Then from this point to the right, draw a horizontal line.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the neck circumference plus 2 cm, and put a point B. From point b to hold the right horizontal line.
Neck. From the point A to the right horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 0.5 cm and put an end A. Also from point A down the vertical to postpone 1 see the resulting point is connected to point A smooth concave line, which will be the neck.
The line of the shoulder cut. To build this line should point To the right horizontally to delay period equal to half the width of back plus 1 cm, and put the point G. From this point to hold up the vertical dashed line to its intersection with the upper horizontal line. From the point of intersection along the dotted line down to postpone 2 cm and place the point of D. Then connect the point D with the point A a straight line, which continue at 1 cm to the right, and put an end D.
The line side of the slice. Point To the right horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 2 cm, and put an end G. From the point G to drop a perpendicular to the intersection of the first auxiliary line. From the point G down vertically to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck and put the point E. Then, the first auxiliary line to extend to the right by 3 to 4 cm and place the point G. Points F and g connecting the straight line which is the line side of the slice.
Line openings. Connect the dots DG and E by a curve.
The bottom line is. To construct a line backless need of point W up the inclined lines to postpone 2 see the resulting point is connected to point B of a smooth curve line.
Line the middle of the back. The bottom line from the point B to the left to continue for 3 to 5 cm. Obtained point to connect with point A straight line which is the middle of the back.
If the coat is straight, middle of the back is the vertical line AB.
Drawing shelves
In the drawing the shelves a coat you need on the right side of a sheet of paper to draw a right angle, the vertex of which is denoted by the letter A (Fig. 146).
The first auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to the length of coat plus 3 cm, and put the point B. Through B draw a horizontal line.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the cut is about 1/3 of the circumference of the neck plus 3 cm, and put the point B. Then from point b to hold the left horizontal line.
Line of the neck. From the point A to the left horizontal to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 of the circumference of the neck plus 1 cm, and put an end A. Also from point A to defer down the vertical cut is 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm, and put an end A. Then connect the dots A and A smooth concave line, which will be the line of the neck.
The line of the shoulder cut. To hold the auxiliary dashed horizontal line located at a distance of 3 cm below the upper horizontal line. Draw an arc with center at point A solution equal to the length of the shoulder cut of the back minus 0.5 cm, and at the intersection of the arc with a dotted auxiliary line to put the point G. AG Sloping line will be the line of the shoulder cut.
The line side of the slice. Point To the left horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/4 the circumference of the chest plus 4 cm, and put a point D. From point D to hold down the vertical line to the intersection with the lower horizontal line. Vertically from point D down to postpone the cut, equal to 1/6 neck circumference plus 2 cm, and put a point in E. Then continue with the bottom horizontal line to the left of a vertical line passing through the point D, to 3 - 5 cm and put the point J. Connect points F and g by a straight line, which will be the line side of the slice.
Line openings. From point G draw a vertical dashed line to the intersection EEC horizontal line VD. From the point of intersection to defer to the right on a horizontal line of 1 cm and put an end D. Then connect the dots G, D and E by a curve.
The bottom line is. To construct this line as well as hem line of the back.
Line the middle. Vertical line AB is a line of mid.
Line Board. From the point A right to continue the line of the neck for 3 to 5 cm and place the point 3. You also need to lengthen and a horizontal line passing through the point B, at 3 - 5 cm to the right. The resulting point is connected to point 3 with a vertical line. From point 3 to postpone 1 cm to the left and from the resulting points to hold down a smooth curved line, as shown in the figure. This line will be the line side of the coat.
Drawing sleeves
The sleeve consists of two parts: the upper and lower halves. Both parts build on one sheet.
In the drawing the sleeves need to draw a rectangle ABGW (Fig. 147), one side of which is equal to the length of the sleeve, and the other 1/3 of the width of the sleeve plus 2.
the First auxiliary line. Horizontal line AB be divided in half and put a point D. From point D draw a vertical line to the horizontal BG.
The second auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical to postpone the segment equal to the segment AD, and supply point E. From point E to hold right horizontal line to the intersection of the line VG.
A third auxiliary line. From point To bottom vertically to delay period equal to half of the segment AE, and to put the point J. From point W to hold the left horizontal line to the intersection with the vertical.
The fourth auxiliary line. From point A down the vertical axis to delay period equal to half the width of the sleeve plus 3 cm, and put an end 3. Then point To down vertically to delay period equal to half the length of the sleeve plus 4 cm, and put the point I. then Connect point 3 and a straight line.
To build the upper halves of the sleeves need to run some lines.
Line of the crown. Connect the points E, D and a smooth curve line, as shown in the figure.
Line of the elbow cut. From point and left auxiliary line OF to postpone 2 cm and put an end I. To defer then from point B to the right on a horizontal a segment, equal to 2/3 of the circumference of the brush plus 2 cm, and put an end B. Connect the dots B, I and oblique lines, which are slightly round about point I.
The bottom line is. From the point B to a perpendicular to a line BI and crossing it with a vertical line AB to put a point K.
the Line is the front slice. From point 3 to the right of line Z delay 2 see the resulting point to connect points E and a smooth concave curve, as shown in the figure.
To build the lower halves of the sleeves need to build several lines.
Line front the cut. From point E to the right horizontally to defer 3 cm and put an end E. From the point E to hold down a line parallel to the side section of the upper halves of the sleeves, to the intersection with the line of the bottom of the sleeves.
Line of the elbow cut. From the point E to the right horizontally to postpone the cut, equal to 1/3 the width of the sleeve plus 2 cm, and put the point L. Then to delay on the secondary line, Z from the line side edge of the lower halves of the right segment is equal to 1/3 the width of the sleeve plus 1 cm and place the point M On the line of the bottom of the sleeves point To the right to defer the cut is about 1/3 of the circumference of the brush plus 1 cm, and put the H-point. Then connect the dots N, M, and L straight lines, slightly rounding out their about point M. a Straight line ML to continue up and at the intersection with the third auxiliary line to put an end L.
Line openings. Connect the dots E and L a curve, positioning it 1 cm below the horizontal, as shown in the figure.
The drawing of the collar
Drawings of circular and semi-circular collar coat constructed according to the drawings of collars for children's dresses.
Drawing pocket
Drawing of the coat pocket build the same as the drawing pockets discussed above. Coat pockets to take the following measurements: width 12 cm; height 10 cm
Cutting coat
Before you reveal the fabric fold double common thread. Pattern pieces laid out on fabric in compliance with the directions of the warp and the necessary seam (Fig. 148). The edges of the sides leaving a seam within 1 cm.
The pattern of a collar and podvorotnya placed on the fabric the common thread.
The lining, padding and batting raskraivajut on the basic pattern. The width of the side strip bottom line is 8-10 cm at the shoulder cut is equal to the width of the shoulder.
Details of the batting cut out the length to the bottom of the coat, or only to the waist.
Sewing coat
Baby coat should be loose, not constrain movements of the child.
Methods coats are the same as methods of tailoring dresses, which have been discussed above. However, in the treatment of coat there are some features.
Coat is treated with a lining of dense fabric. The gasket is placed on the wrong side of podvorotnya and prostrachivajut equity lines along the rack and zig-zag lines - on the left. Then podvorotni umatyvaet in the neck, folding podvorotni and the neckline, right sides inside, and combining the middle of the back, with mid-podvorotnya, and the ends of podvorotnya - nadseni on the shelves. The right half of podvorotnya umatyvaet side of the neck from the middle of podvorotnya to nadechka, and the left from the notch to the middle of podvorotnya. Then podvorotni stachivaya in the neck.The seam of vrachevanie of podvorotnya on the right shelf to sew the hook and on the left side of the loop.
Cut the edge of the upper collar bends and scribbled on podvorotni, closing the seam vrachevanie of podvorotnya.
Shoulder seams smatyvay back, propositiva shoulder cut of the back in the middle, then smatyvay the side sections. The elbow sections of the sleeves smatyvay on the upper halves, and the front on the bottom.
The bottom of coat to buckle on the planned line, zametyvayut and sutured manually.
Umatyvaet of the sleeve into the armhole, aligning the middle of the top part of the sleeves with the shoulder seams and sleeves Posiva on the crown. Stitch sleeves into armholes perform from the side of the sleeves. The seams of the sleeves vrachevanie handle oblique stripe fabric.
Patch pockets lined namachivajut on shelves and scribbled.
On the left shelf at a distance of 2 cm from the edge of the Board overcast loop, on the right shelf to sew buttons.
Cut parts of the batting seam in the connecting joint, so they do not create bulges. Instead of batting, you can use the fur. For this you need easy soft fur.
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