For the construction of the pattern of the shirt will need the following measurements (in cm):
1. Shirt length — CI (52).
2. Poluobhvat chest — TDG (28).
3. Poluobhvat neck — Posh (14).
4. Sleeve length — DR (34).
To measure TDG add 12 cm and the calculations take subject to increase (28 + 12 = 40 cm).
As always, first draw a straight angle with vertex at point P (Fig. 180).
Length of shirt. Downward from the point R we can measure DI and put in this place the H-point.
The depth of the armhole. Downward from the point R set aside 1/3 of the Linear plus 1.5 cm and place the point G: RG = RM : 3 + 1,5 = 40 : 3 + 1,5 = 14,8 see
Right from points G and H. draw a horizontal line the chest and bottom.
The width of the backrest. To the right of point G set aside 1/3 of the Linear plus 1.5 cm and place the point G1: ГГ1 = TDG : 3 + 1,5 = 40 : 3 + 1,5 = 14,8 see
From the point G1 in perpendicular guide and the point of its intersection with the horizontal line emerging from a point P, denote by the letter P.
the Width of the openings. To the right of the point G1 set aside 1/4 TDG plus 0.5 cm and put a dot in G2: Г1Г2 = TDG : 4 + 0,5 = 40 : 4 + 0,5 = 10,5 see
Direct Г1Г2 divide into two equal parts and set point G3. From this point down swipe perpendicular to its intersection with the line of bottom and the intersection of the H1 label.
The width and height. To the right of the point R set aside 1/3 Posh plus 0.5 cm and put a point P1: PP1 = Posh : 3 + 0,5 = 14 : 3 + 0,5 = 5,2 see
Up point P1 set aside 2 cm and place the point P2.
From the vertex of the angle РР1Р2 draw a straight, dividing the angle in half, put it 0.7 cm and mark the point O. the Point P, and P2 connect as shown in the drawing.
The slope of the shoulder. Down from point P set aside 1.5 cm and place the point P1. This point connect the point P2 line, which will continue to the right by 0.5 cm and place the point P2.
Construction points of the armhole. Up from point G1 put 5 cm and place the point O1. From the point G1 draw a bisector of the angle put on it 2 cm and place the point O2. Draw armholes connecting point G3, O2, O1 and A2.
The extension bottom. To obtain the bottom line on the right side of the point D1 put 2 cm and mark the point N2, which then connect with the point G3.
The length of the yoke. Downward from the point R put 5 cm, put a point O3. From her right, draw a horizontal line to the intersection with the line of openings, and put a point O4.
Before. To the right of the point G2 set aside 1/3 of the Linear plus 1.5 cm and place the point G4: Г2Г4 = TDG : 3 + 1,5 = 40 : 3 + 1,5 = 14,8 see
Through the obtained point and draw a vertical line, the points of intersection with horizontal lines mark P3 and N3.
The width of the backrest. From the point of G2 up, swipe to the perpendicular and at its intersection with the horizontal line put a point P4.
Mouth width. To mark the width of the neck, the left side of the point P3 set aside 1/3 Posh plus 0.5 cm and put R5: Р3Р5 = Posh : 3 + 0,5 = 14 : 3 + 0,5 = 5,2 see
Raising of the front. Up from point P5 set aside 2 cm and place the point P6.
The depth of the neck. Down from point P3 set aside 1/3 Posh minus 1 cm and place the point P7: Р3Р7 = Posh : 3 – 1 = 14 : 3 – 1 = 3,7 see
the slope of the shoulder. Down from the point P4 set aside 0.7 cm and place the point P3. This point connect with the point P6. Direct П3Р6 continue to shoulder line of the front was equal to the shoulder line of the back, and put a point P4: Р2П2 = П4П6.
Construction points of the armhole. Up from point G2 set aside 4 cm and place the point O5. From the vertex of the angle from the point of G2 draw a bisector, put on it 1.5 cm and set point O6. Connect the dots G3, A6, A5 and A4. Then decorate the neckline. From the point P6 to the point P7 draw a straight, which split in half and put a dot O7. At a right angle from the point A7 set aside of 0.5 cm and place the point A8. The points P7, P6 A8 and connect.
The length of the incision. Down from point P7 put 20 cm and mark the point D.
the Lengthening of the front and expanding bottom. Down from the point H3 to postpone 1 cm and put a point H4. To the left of point H1 postpone 2 cm and place the point H5. From the point H5 to the point G3 guide line and the point N5 and N4 connect a smooth line.
Sleeve. Draw a straight angle with vertex at point A (Fig. 181).
Sleeve length. Down from the point And set aside 1/4 of the RM minus 2 cm (in this case Running take with no gain) and set point G: AG = TDG : 4 – 2 = 28 : 4 – 2 = 5 cm
Down from the point And put OTHERS and set point N.
Then from the point G to the left set aside 1.5 width of the armhole plus 0.5 cm and put G1: ГГ1 = 10,5 + 5,2 + 0,5 = 16,2 cm
sleeve Width. Then to the left from point N lay aside about 14 cm and put the point H1, which connect the straight line with the point G1. Direct ГГ1 divide into three equal parts and put points G2 and G3. Up from point G2 swipe perpendicular bisector, and its intersection with the horizontal line going from point A, indicate the letter O Up from point G3 set aside a period equal to AG minus 2 cm, and mark the point A1: Г3О1 = 5 – 2 = 3 cm.
Draw a line okata rear sleeve halves, connecting the dots between G1, O1, And as shown in the drawing. Down from the point Of set aside of 0.5 cm and place the point O2. Down from point O1 set aside 1 cm and place the point O3. Place the top part of the front part of the sleeve smooth line connecting the points G1, O3, O2 and A.
the Location of the strap sleeves. Divide the width in half sleeves and in the middle put a dot in H2. From the point of H2 up put 7 cm and place in a point of H3. Then make an incision in the back half of the pattern sleeve.
Collar. Draw a right angle with the vertex at the point V (Fig. 182).
The length of the collar. Down from the point To put 8 cm and put the point B1. To the left from the point B1 put the Posh plus 1 cm and place the point B2: В1В2 = Posh + 1 cm = 14 + 1 = 15 cm
Up from point B2 spend the perpendicular and the point of its intersection with the horizontal line indicate B3. In the left side of the v3 put 4 cm and place the point B4, which then connect with the point B2 with a straight line.
Notch. To get a notch up from point B1 put 2 cm, put a point B5. Points B2 and B5 connect as shown in the drawing. Pattern pieces lay on the fabric along the grain lines and lead cutting without seam, provided that when creation of the drawing.
On the table wrong side up and shoulder cuts myself put the front of the shirt below as evenly as possible to pricecat the left upper and right lower straps. The width of the bottom bracket in the cut should be 5.5 cm and length equal to the length of the cut plus 1.5 cm Width upper limit should be 6.5 cm and length equal to the length of the cut plus 4.5 cm
Cut the bottom (right) of the bar attach to the incision to underside of the front face, then baste and pristrochite on the strip, making the seam width 0.5 cm then 0.5 cm fold cut edge, fold the strap in half, fold the front, baste and Topstitch, departing from the bent edge, fully covering the seam petacci.
The upper (left) bar baste and pristrochite front side to the back side of the front placket on a seam width 0.5 cm off the seam Petacchi back 2 cm, the bar bend on the front side, put on the right side of the shirt, put the strap width (3 cm), fold the edge, baste carefully and make mysyk.
On the lower and upper rails, stepping back from the edge of 1.5 cm, make a small notch and put the top corners straps inside. The left bar shirt scribbled on the bent edge, mysyk, strap across two lines.
In order to firmly secure the clasp, the line will continue along the edge of the strap to the notch seam of a width not exceeding 2 mm.
Baste shoulder seams and sew them on the front, sapacheva them to the back. Sew the side sections of the back side, sapacheva to the front. Then baste the hem and pristrochite it podrobnym a seam width of 1 cm
Cut the collar fold with podvorotnya face inward and sew the seam width 0.5 cm at the cut. Then nadsekite corners, turn collar, straighten and mimetite its edge.
Podvorotni shirt will attach the front side to the front side of the shirt so that the middle of podvorotnya coincided with the middle of the back, and ends — with nasecki on the straps, and mimetite at neckline. The neck will pripasayte in the oblique sections and sew with podvorotnya seam width no more than 0.6 cm fold edging to inside edge of podvorotnya 0.5 cm and Topstitch, departing from the bent region of 0.1 cm and closing the seam grinding.
Cut the bag strap (bottom — 2 cm wide and of length equal to the length of the incision plus 1 cm, the upper width of 5 cm and a length equal to the length of the incision plus 3 cm) attach the face to the underside of the cut sleeve, baste and pristrochite, making the seam width 0.5 cm. Fold up the lower strap on the front side, it cut the edge of the bend of 0.5 cm and pristrochite, departing from the bent region of 0.1, see
Allowance from the place of pritochki equal to 1.5 cm, needed to overlap the bottom bracket. Remaining after performing the above operations, the fabric fold on the front side, cut the fold of 0.5 cm, the end of the strap make mysyk and Topstitch, departing from the bent region of 0.1, see the result, you should get the strap width 2 cm Sew sleeves lapped seam, below the sleeves make small folds.
Cut the cuff, the length of which should equal the circumference of the brush 4 cm, width at cutting — 9 cm and ready — only 4 cm, fold the face inward, their ends stitch the seam with the width of 0.5 cm, not destrucive to the top 0.5 cm, cut corners. Remove the cuffs and seams will straighten.
Podmenili fold front side with the underside of the sleeve and sew the seam width 0.5 cm edge of the cuff fold inwards at 0.5 cm and Topstitch, stepping back from the edges of 0.1 cm and closing the seam pritochki podmenili. Then the middle of the top part of the sleeve align with the shoulder seam, then baste and pristrochite on the armhole, sapacheva sleeves, a seam width of 0.5 cm
On the top strap cut and sewn loop, to the bottom sew buttons.
|