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Home » Articles » Technology of sewing production

Design of clothing items

To obtain a three-dimensional shape, from flat layers of fabric, knitted fabrics or other materials make clothing as a composite of separate parts. Their number, shape and size, connection type and material determine the variety of designs of garments.
Design products outerwear is the most complex and diverse assortment of garments. However, in the design of products has a lot in common. So, coats, blazers, jackets usually consist of the following main parts: two shelves, back, sleeves, collar. Women's clothes are more varied in styles than men, therefore, its details are also more varied in form and often consist of several parts. In Fig. 15 shows details of top women's jacket. 

The main parts of a coat, jacket, jacket 

 Back and shelves overcoat, coat or jacket may be solid or a composite of two or more parts, which connect the various joints bridging (vrazalic or usautoco), lapped tongue, invoices etc. depending on the style of seams can be shape - straight or curved, and location - horizontal, vertical or inclined.
In the products of different designs and styles the shape and size of parts may also be different. Products in the casual backrest and rack have straight sides, bottom and intermediate sections; flared products lower section has a curved shape; in the products of adjacent or semi-fitted silhouette side and middle sections curved. Form the side sections also depends on the style of the product. 
To create a three-dimensional shape of the backrest and shelves perform various tuck: cut and uncut located in different parts parts.
Big changes in the design of the backs and shelves making such decorative elements as folds, assemblies. 
The appearance of the product affected by the shape and sizes of side edges, the design and location of pockets. Depending on how the hole formed .for entry hand pockets may be Welt, patch and seams. By machining the edges of the hole pockets are with flaps, without flaps, slips, etc. 
 Sleeve outerwear also are diverse in structure, which largely determines the appearance of the product. As indicated, the sleeve can be set, single cut shoulder with backrest and shelves, casual Raglan sleeves and combined. The number of stitches of the sleeves there are single-, two - and three-seam. 
The shape of the sleeves can be straight, extended and tapered with tucks, folds or assemblies. The bottom straight sleeves is often decorated with incisions (slots). For finishing the sleeves of a cuff applied from the main or as decorative material (fur, leather, knitwear), the pull tabs, PATA, buttons. 
 Collars outerwear depending on the type and style of the product are lapel with a stitched cap or stand without stand; shawl collar, stand collar etc. With one and the same constructive basis, collars vary in width, length and form ledges. Collars can be made of various materials: from basic or finishing of fabric, leather or faux fur, leather etc. 
the Main parts of the collar are the upper collar and lower collar. 

Detail strip and butt

The purpose of the lining is an improvement of the inside products, as well as protection of detail at the top from wear. The lining is made of silk, semi-silk and cotton fabrics. The lining consists of the same parts as the top of products - shelves, back, sleeves, etc. Form parts of the lining basically conforms to the shape of the detail at the top. Backrest and shelves lining the length can be up to the bottom of the product or in short it. 
The bulk form of the parts of the lining in the finished product is achieved by Darts.
The shelves lining treated pockets: Welt (men's products), the seam protecive lining to the right podborta (in the female products without outer pockets). Design details of the lining women's jacket shown in Fig. 16. 
To the details of the butt (Fig. 17) are: side seal, front, rear, shoulder pads, lining of collar and bottom of sleeves, burlap and dolevikov pockets, shoulder pads etc. 
depending on the type and purpose of the product parts of the butt are made of different materials. The size and shape of the various parts.
A side gasket is applied to stabilize the side edges of shelves and maintain the shape obtained during processing. With the same purpose in different products depending on the type of clothing (men's, women's, children's), style, main materials requirements for the side padding may be different. So, side padding in articles of men's clothing must have high shape stability and high elasticity, in children's products - to provide mold resistance without increasing the hardness of the products themselves.In the female products free form overly tight side seal can ruin the soft silhouette of a coat or jacket. Therefore, the side seal can consist of a different number and different in purpose and kind of material details.
The most typical design is the side gasket used in the manufacture of men's jackets. It consists of the following parts and components. 
1. The main part of the strip of linen or semi-linen fabrics, fabrics with adhesive coating or of nonwoven materials. 
The top edge and the edge of a Board strip according to the form correspond to the same edges of the shelves. The main part of the strip has a lower cutting part (extension), and sometimes detachable lapel (with adhesive processing). 
To shape the strip may have one or two Darts.
2. The second layer side of the strip from the same fabric as the main part; the part used in the products in those cases when it is necessary to create high elasticity and stability of the shelves products. 
3. The shoulder pad of linen is used to increase the stability of the shoulder area side of the strip.
4. Hair trim from a fabric in which one is woven from horse hair or nylon filaments, the other of linen or cotton threads, is used to make the elastic side padding in the chest area. As shelf product to wear mainly subjected to bending in the transverse direction, the hair sweep across the strip so that hair or nylon filaments held parallel to their top edges or across products.
5. Column - additional detail of the hair tissue is used to impart elasticity in the longitudinal direction of the shelves and the jackets of wool costly parts. 
6. Padding in the lapels of cotton fabric (cotton, calico) is applied to the finished product after Ironing it was not visible traces of the stitches from the lapels. 
In some models of jackets and coats, in addition to these parts, used front and rear shoulder pads.
In the manufacture of cotton fabrics lined (outwear, jackets, coats, etc.), children's outerwear, women's coat hair overlay at the chest is not used. 
In these units the strip consists of the main section and shoulder pads. 
In the manufacture of side strips instead of the linen fabric can be applied, brushed cushioning material with an adhesive powder coating or adhesive nonwoven fabric - interlining; this reduces the cost of products, its reduced weight, all other requirements for the side seal, is provided.
When processing children's and women's products technologically advanced designs for side pads use a cotton cloth (calico, madapolam) dot adhesive coating. 
The spacer collar is used to increase the stability of the collar. It is made of linen cloth without the adhesive coating or the adhesive coating of cotton fabric with an adhesive coating and nonwoven. In winter products complement the gasket with a layer of wool or foam.
Laying in the bottom of the sleeves used to stabilize and fasten the bent edges of the main sleeves. The gasket material is cotton cloth (calico, calico) without the adhesive coating or an adhesive coating and interlining. 
The parts of the butt are also burlap and dolevikov pockets of cotton fabric (calico). The dolevikov serve to increase the strength of the edges of the pockets in tension. 

Items of clothing other types of 

 Pants (Fig. 18, 19) consist of four major parts (two front and two rear halves) and a large number of small parts.

 Skirt (Fig. 20) may consist of two, four, six or eight major parts (panels) and a few details to handle the fasteners and top edge.



Category: Technology of sewing production | Added by: 19.10.2017
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